Wax, Stain or Varnish Pine doors?

[Anonymous]

We are in the process of stripping some 1890 pine doors with a view to repainting them. However the wood underneath is really beautiful so we would like to keep it on show. I understand that they were designed to be painted in the first place but the wood looks so nice.
I wondered what people thought of the various finishes would protect the wood but not colour it too much.

 

[Anonymous]

Another consideration is the possibility that you want to paint them again sometime. In which case something like a wax finish would make that rather difficult.
On the other hand, wax does look and feel wonderful........

 

[Anonymous]

I would avoid varnish. It doesn't last that well, and has to be removed with as much struggle as paint.

If you like the colour of the doors when they are wet (damp a small area), then I would sand them very smooth with fine sand paper (by hand to finish). Then seal them with Shellac sanding sealer (a traditional finish used in French Polishing) and then wax over the top with a clear wax such as Liberon or Black Bison. You will need to apply 2 or 3 coats of wax sparingly, and rub up well in between.

They will look lovely and feel nice. They will need to have the wax reapplyed about twice a year and a good polish up every now and then.

Sue

 

[Anonymous]

Once again it has to be Osma hard waxoil. Easy and pleasant to use and a great hardwearing finish - even on floors. Mike.

 

[Anonymous]

A wax finish such as Liberon Black Bison would provide a "natural" finish, but would probably require occasional re-treatment to maintain the look.

Although I will probably be cast out of the forum as a heretic I have used, and highly recommend, Sikkens TS Interior (colourless) to provide a durable , low-build finish on woodwork which is subject to handling e.g. doors. It is an alkyd based coating which does not yellow like polyurethane varnishes. Applies nicely and doesn't look too "plasticy" like some varnishes. One coat is ofetn sufficient. You'll probably need to go to a trade outlet to find it.
In my experience avoid acrylic varnishes at all cost - these lack transparency and look awful. Likewise avoid stains, as many of these can look patchy when applied to softwoods. Just let the natural colour speak for itself - and you'll find that it will mellow down given time.

 

[Anonymous]

hi, am interested in replys on this subject also.
Would you need to use a sanding sealer prior to using osma hardwax oil. Have pine doors that have been stripped and need to finish them with something, but with too small boys about need something that doesnt need frequent re-doing!

 

[Anonymous]

Sue - surely the one advantage of varnish is that you could just paint straight over it rather than having to strip it off first?

We were in the same position as you, Calathea, a decade or so ago and went for the wax option with very satisfactory results. We made sure we had thoroughly neutralised and rinsed the doors first, then sanded them with very fine sandpaper (I think it was called flour-paper), and used the very finest grade of wire-wool to apply the wax. I can't remember how many coats of wax we put on, but the doors ended up the most wonderfully silky honey-colour and they stood up to our children with no further attention (we insisted that the odd roller-skate dent added a certain charm).

 

[Anonymous]

osmo hardwax oil is just a 2 coat finish with no need for any primer or sealer as it was originally designed for floor use it is very hardwearing and ideal for doors

 

[Anonymous]

Although I am not quite as thick as a plank like people say like, me and Charlotte was wandering like if this type of waxing and staining would work on me like?

Like I already use the varnish on my sticky up hair like, look you.

Gavin the Rugby

Ps
Like I once used Nitromoors as a depilatory agent like, but would not recommend it like.