Wall insulation/ boarding

[Borderer]

Hi again.
As I mentioned in my last post the cottage I have just bought is mid to late 1700s with solid/rubble walls. The house was renovated in the nineteen seventies and has a few " interesting" additions. The one I am dealing with at the moment is wall panelling.
For some reason the majority of the walls have been strapped or studded with various gaps ranging from 30 mm to about 120mm and over pinned with 6 mm plywood grooved and stained to look like timber planks ( well not really unless you are blind but there it is)
The upside of this is that removing the panelling leaves the original walls in mostly fair condition. And the air gap between the wall and the panelling has kept the original structure dry.
Question now is
Do I retain the studding and insulate with wood wool batons and put on a breathable board (fermacell or similar)
Strip off the studding and repair the plaster which is straight to the stone
Fit insulated plasterboard or Marmox
Thanks again

 

[formerly known as]

If you want originality with no insulation - strip off and repair plaster and decorate accordingly (lime plaster and limewash/distemper)
If you want permeable insulation and finish - there are lots of solutions including hemp/sheep's wool batts, hempcrete and pavatherm/diffutherm boarding etc which can then take lime plaster. With permeable batts, they can be up against the wall, but they need to be stapled to studding of appropriate centres, hempcrete can be shuttered against studding and plastered over, whilst boarding can cover the insulative layer to allow for plastering. The boards mentioned above have some insulative value also. I, as mentioned elsewhere, am going down the light clay straw route for t/f panel infil and will be using this for internal lining to walls also, then lath and plastering over. The main thing is, KEEP IT PERMEABLE AND IGNORE PIR MANUFACTURERS COMPUTER MODELLING ON DEW POINTS!