Trying to match wood finishes

[a twig]

Hi all, it's another wood finish question, my conundrum can be seen in this image:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/15a4o6ChaGjf5Lr1Ok0JZRJaAu0TuuG1l/view?usp=drivesdk

Original window seat is pine, as is the replacement new bit, but I'm struggling to find an oil that gets even close to the original colour, danish, teak and tung all.stay far too light.

Any other suggestions? I've been to specialist trade suppliers and all have suggested what I've already tried. Is there a Liberon finish that might do the job?

 

[plasticpigeon]

I suppose a stain might have worked but not now there is oil on it. I suppose you will need to tint it with something, but I'm not sure what to put over an oiled finish. How about trying a very dark wax over the top, it might colour it a bit. I have found applying wax with a fine scotch pad does a good job.

 

[a twig]

There isn't any oil on it at present all my testing has been done on scrap pieces.

 

[plasticpigeon]

That's good. If you have scrap pieces I would try an "oil" stain, which used to be a stain dissolved in naptha, but I think it is something else these days as the hydrocarbon content of these things has had t be reduced. Liberon certainly make thee products.

I've just looked and now they make a spirit dye and a water based dye which I assume are different to the "oil" stain/dye that I have used which was really naptha. The nice thing about the oil stain/dye was that it was quite slow drying so a very even colour could be achieved. Water stains are harder as they dry more quickly. I assume alcohol dyes also dry quickly. As an aside, manufacturers used to call products that stained wood a stain, now the terminology seems to have changed, and a stain is often a coloured lacquer, and something whith no body and only colour which used to be called a stain, is now called a dye.

Perhaps this product is more simuilar to what I have used, but things change so quickly I can't really say.

https://www.rustins.ltd/rustins/our-products/wood-preparation/wood-dye-solvent-based-

 

[88v8]

I built some cupboards in 2012, with a mix of old and new pine, intending to paint them, haven't yet. Back then the difference was glaring, now one has to look for it. Was thinking last night that I could probably just wax them.

Pine is photosensitive.
Not to the extent of cherry, for instance, but it will darken with time, and if the grain is a good match then in a few years the new and old will probably blend well.
If you don't want to wait, there are various spirit stains. Stain, then wax.
Or you could try staining with a strong decoction of tea.
https://dans-woodshop.blogspot.com/2012/03/staining-with-tea.html
or tea and iron
https://www.instructables.com/id/tea-staining/
Advantage with these is that you can repeat the stain to darken further.

There are also stained waxes; problem with wax staining is you really only get one shot at it, so experimenting with scraps is very wise.

Ivor

 

[noj]

Be warned, if you stain new wood down to accurately match the old, it can subsequently do its natural darkening...

Bugger!

 

[Feltwell]

If you can stand all the waffle from some bore called Feltwell, this is worth a read.

http://periodproperty.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=13579&hilit=notice+board&start=30

The skirting board looked great at first but eventually went way too dark - so dark that eventually I'll get around to replacing it*. The notice board frame looks good and has only darkened a tiny bit with age, I'm still pleased with the results.

* Eventually could be a very long time.

 

[a twig]

Thanks Feltwell - your concoctions got a bit too much for me, but the posts were very informative and got me on the right track.

I've gone for Liberon "Yew" in the end and then will give it a seal, then go nuts with the briwax on the whole thing