Timber frame Repair pics

[Andys]

We've had a nibble at our timber frame repairs - this should get the neighbours talking.
I think we'll leave it for as long as possible to let the wood weather-in but I can see we may end up begging the CO to let us stain the new bits black to match the rest of the frame. I think it would be a shame to do that to nice new timbers but maybe it's better than having the house look like one of those unsolvable wooden puzzles.

Here's the joint between the Girt(?) and corner post with the decay cut away. It's reassuring to see how decent the wood looks after about 400 years.

The CO let us replace the diagonal brace in its entirety when it turned out to be a replacement bit nailed in place with no attempt at tenons and decay on all sides. I was spared a load of rebuilding work as the infill panel decided not to fall out, which was nice
The levitating brick infill panel was actually quite firmly supported by the layers of lime plaster, cement render and the bedding mortar of the previous owners' insulating blockwork on the inside. The little wooden props were there so I could still sleep at night.

Finally here's the hole which makes its way diagonally through the tie beam. It seems to be a natural feature where a branch grew in the original tree, which has then rotted away

I've a bit more to do, mainly encouraging the thin layer of cement over-pointing to fall off, revealing the original lime pointing. Next year it's the other end of the wall, where the corner post nearly reaches the ground, then the year after maybe we'll get the cill plate done....

 

[Feltwell]

Lovely looking job Andy - very neat. How did you cut the existing timber in-situ? Oscillating multi-tool?

 

[Andys]

Thankyou Feltwell, actually I cut it using an experienced conservation carpenter which was much less effort for me.
He used a boring bit of around 3/4" or maybe 1" and a chunky looking electric drill then chiseled the leftovers off across the grain. It looked like hard work and too much for me with my dicky back. It looks like everything needs to be really sharp to make progress.
I was impressed by the precision of the work, the joints are really tight and, no, you can't just do it with a chainsaw in half the time, apparently

 

[Feltwell]

That figures. The old wood would have been so hard I think it would have led to the rapid demise of multi-tool blades.

Nice job - very nice job. Now I just need to make the joints from taking the rotten bits of my bay window out that tight.......

Dicky back - I sympathise, having just come back from the Osteopath - she does things to me that no woman has ever done before! :shock:

 

[Feltwell]

Argh - editing blunder....

 

[Penners]

I cut it using an experienced conservation carpenter

I might get myself one of those, to keep in the shed in case I need it. Are they expensive?

Flippancy aside, I echo Feltwell's words, Andy: it looks a super job. Instead of painting it black, I would seriously consider stripping the black paint off the rest of the timbers.

 

[skier-hughes]

Looks fantastic, I'm with Penners, I'd strip the rest of the black as well.

 

[Andys]

I'd strip the rest of the black as well

Thirded, but any tips for stripping pitch ( not paint)?
The Listed Property Owners Club magazine has an article on dry-ice (CO2) blasting which is apparently the next big thing for not damaging the wood, still a bit sceptical though. I'd guess a cold day is a good start to avoid a horrible sticky mess

 

[mims&pip]

Looks fantastic, I'm with Penners, I'd strip the rest of the black as well.

Me too......brilliant repairs, btw

Mims x

 

[Penners]

any tips for stripping pitch ( not paint)?

This page may help:-

http://www.stripperspaintremovers.com/I_want_to_remove.htm

 

[malcolm]

Dry ice doesn't sound like a bad idea. It is used for removing chewing gum so ought to work for other soft nasty stuff. If you do get dry ice blasters in make sure you have the day off to keep an eye on them. There will be a do it as fast as possible button on the machine where they rip the wood to shreds and finish by lunchtime, and the do it properly button which will take them all day but do much less damage. Dry ice should result in very little damage if used in a sympathetic manner.

I like the work so far. I imaging pitch contributed to some of that rot in the first place, though anything else waterproof wouldn't have helped.

 

[Penners]

Damn! I wish all my tools had a "do it properly" button.

 

[Andys]

Well that was fun.
Thanks to Penners' kind inclusion of the link I found myself warily eyeing up the Strippers website again. So I had a little try with a tin of Rustins paint remover instead, which is all I had this afternoon.

On the bench I've cleaned up a test patch of bitumen/pitch on the outer face of the discarded diagonal brace. A couple of applications of paint remover and a scrub with soapy water brought the wood up nicely
The bench on the other hand is like a recreation of the Exxon Valdez disaster in miniature with evil black gloop everywhere.
hmm, mayyybe, if I can protect the brickwork.

I might see if I can get someone to do a bit of dry ice blasting on the same sample bit of wood, and make them do it on maximum power to see how bad it could get...