Terracotta tiles won't seal, desperately need help!

[yamin]

Hi all

Have laid terracotta tiles, 20mm thick, into a fireplace and out front for a hearth upon which our new esse woodfired range will sit. Its being fitted oon wednesday. The tiles were unsealed. So far I have

1. Given them FIVE layers of HG Impregnator
2. 2 layers of Liberon Stone Floor Shine

And yet, STILL, though water penetration with the dro[p test is nearer 15 mins now, the stone shine will not shine!

The tiles are laid onto concrete, there is no need for them to breathe, and I would like a shiny finish. This is because we have a swim loving big choc labrador who will never leave the front of the esse once its on. I haven't the time to be scrubbing or stripping wax every couple of weeks as a lab shaped dirty patch appears, so would like a hard wearing shiny finish that I can rubn a mop over.

Any ideas what I can do? Should I continue with the Liberon stone floor shine or is this floor simply too porous for that? Underneath where the range will be I have tried beeswax and although there is a slight sheen after 5 layers and buffing, its surely not strong enough to cope with dog!
Is there a cover all varnish I can use? I know thats a bit of a anti suggestion on here, but it just needs to work for us! I know a ceramic tile may have been easier, but I do so love the rustic look of these ones we've chosen.

Thank you!

Yamin

 

[LadyArowana]

We tested this( well, pretty sure it was this ) http://www.tilestop.co.uk/shop/Tile...t_info.html?osCsid=uk0hjjbcj7i54h32b3chnp0a96 on a riven slate floor. I ultimately decided against the glossy look ( only wet labrador belongs to my neighbour and doesn't visit until he is a dry labrador ) and went with something else by the same people. However I did seal all my leftoverers with the shiny ( I put the little felt protector things on the back and use them as mats/ candle bases outside ) and it seems to be quite resistant to 'stuff'.

However, I'm not sure how well it would do on top of other finishes that have already been applied. On our test there must have been some water from the gouting that had permeated the slate and that gave white patches under the shiny. Not a problem as we decided to remove the shiny anyway, but it might give you a bad result. It is also evil smelly stuff, as in nasty chemically smelly, so needs good ventilation.

Hope someone else comes along with some other more helpful suggestions.

 

[Nigel Watts]

In my old house I had a terracotta tile floor in my kitchen. It was treated with several coats of linseed oil, each allowed to dry, followed by Traffic wax. It had a good shine after polishing. The wax had to be allowed to dry before polishing.

It was reasonably resistant to water, but not to spillages from the bleach bottle wielded by our then cleaning lady, a former women's discus champion for the South West of England who didnt seem to know her own strength.

The one thing I learned was that you cant keep them from staining and discolouring for ever. Terracotta is naturally porous and no finish other than something completely impervious, such as polyurethane varnish (which would be inappropriate), will give 100% protection. My advice is that you should care for the tiles as best you can and accept that they will change and acquire marks and patina.

 

[yamin]

Thanks to you both. Have absolutely no problem with marks and patina Nigel - you should see our house! No, its just a dog shaped circle that I can't shift that I'm concerned about. Both yours and Lady A's suggestions are ones I shall look into is Traffic Wax called just that?

Tempted by the product you used though Lady A - I know Nigel it looks more like the ply u finish, but this is such a small and heavy traffic area that I am happy to live with it even if inappropriate I think, but agree I wouldn't do it for a whole kitchen floor.,

Thanks both

 

[Nigel Watts]

https://www.heritage-homeandgarden.co.uk/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=8653

 

[robgil]

depends on the tile , ive got some mexican tiles out back that can drink almost as much as i can.

 

[Moo]

Before I laid the raw terracotta tiles on son's concrete kitchen floor I did some experiments with my dear old stand-by, Danish Oil.
One coat soaked in within seconds, a second coat took longer to dry and seemed to be pretty waterproof, and a third coat repelled all liquids.
So we gave each of them a couple of coats prior to laying, and a third coat to the area that wouldn't be covered by the kitchen units.
The floor has so far survived pretty well; by the time I make one of my infrequent visits it's got pretty grotty (young men are even less houseproud than I am) but a quick going-over with a scrubbing-brush brings it up a treat.

 

[yamin]

Now thats interesting Moo, I have some Danish Oil.......... might try on a spare tile. Thank you. In fact, I could do a lot worse than try all these options on the many spre tiles we have left over.......

 

[Penners]

yamin - the problem, as Nigel has pointed out, is that terracotta is porous. And some terracotta is very porous. So you may not succeed in completely sealing your tiles, I'm afraid. And if you were to use something like polyurethane to do so, after a while it could become patchy through wear and look awful.

The best answer lies in relaxation. Just enjoy the flaws, marks, patina and character that the tiles will develop as they age (at least, that's what I tell myself when I look in the mirror). :wink:

 

[yamin]

Just enjoy the flaws, marks, patina and character that the tiles will develop as they age (at least, that's what I tell myself when I look in the mirror).

But some things age so beautifully...........whereas my tiles will be all beautifully aged apart from the dog shaped 'she's been swimming' dark patch, LOL!!! Off to pick out some spares and do a few experiments, but yes, suspect whatver, it'll be a compromise.......

Thanks!

 

[LadyArowana]

And if you were to use something like polyurethane to do so, after a while it could become patchy through wear and look awful.

The lithofin slate seal I posted the link to can be redone without stripping I believe. The new coat acts as a slight solvent to what remains and so it bonds together, that was one of the reasons I was given for it being something I might want in the kitchen. It can also be completely removed with one of their specialist products. I didn't ultimately use it though :lol:

 

[yamin]

The lithofin slate seal I posted the link to can be redone without stripping I believe. The new coat acts as a slight solvent to what remains and so it bonds together, that was one of the reasons I was given for it being something I might want in the kitchen. It can also be completely removed with one of their specialist products

I definitely like the sound of that.

Ok, I have 4 spare tiles on the table.

1. HG Impregnator x 3 layers
2. Mixed linseed and danish oil x 3
3. Just Danish Oil x 3

Will follow up tomorrow with choices of 'finish' when I see which one is best basic sealant - so far 1 and 2 are neck and neck

 

[Schoolmarm]

Have you tried ecover floor liquid? It is for washing floors but it has linseed oil in it as well. I think it may build up over time but........haven't used it enough to test.

You could wash one tile over and over perhaps?