Stove Experts Needed

[MdB]

We have recently managed to get ourselves a bargain second hand stove - a Morsø Squirrel 1410 - and it appears to be in good nick apart from the fire bricks which were all cracked and one had fallen out.

Not a problem, I thought, replacement bricks are easily available on Ebay and the like. Now I've actually removed the old bricks and looked into replacements, I have a couple of questions:

1) Should I buy vermiculite replacements (£42) or clay replacements (£66)? I am tempted to go for the clay as there are a few comments online that vermiculite is soft and not the best.

2) Should the replacement bricks be fire cemented into position or should they just be placed in position? I was expecting them to be just placed but the ones I've removed were very much cemented into position and I was wondering if this might be the reason why they cracked as they couldn't move when they and/or the metal expanded when heated.

3) Should there be a strip of fire cement on the base between the bricks and the grate?

4) What's the best way of cleaning it up? A new coat of paint or stove polish? It isn't in that bad a nick so I was thinking stove polish but the Morsø manual says to use paint (spray on touch up?)

I've not owned a stove before so this is all a bit new to me.

 

[Lime]

I would consult the manufacturers re. the fire cement in the joints.
It may be important.

What I'd be concerned about is that all the bricks were damaged when you bought it.
IME there are two scenarios that can cause this to happen apart from old age or original poor design.
Either the fire was over-run (trying to heat up a space that was too big for it's heat output) or the draught control is not functioning properly and allows the fire to run away burning the bricks.

 

[skier-hughes]

I bought some vermiculite bricks for our old fire, waste of money or

 

[Penners]

I would consult the manufacturers re. the fire cement in the joints.
It may be important.

I agree with Lime. I should check with Morso UK about the fire cement.

Morso UK Ltd
Unit 5
The io Centre
Valley Drive
Swift Valley
Rugby
Warks
CV21 1TW

Tel:01788 554410
Fax:01788 554411

I've never used vermiculite fire bricks, but I've heard that they are rather soft and vulnerable to damage when you rattle about in the fire with the poker. But again, I should ask.

 

[FamilyWiggs]

I'm not a "stove expert" but...

Well, I bought a load of replaement vermiculite bricks from eBay at the beginning of the winter for our Villager multi-fuel stove.

I just placed them in the base and up the sides, without cement. They seem indistinguishable from the originals. I made sure to download the manual first, because there are a variety of sizes and an order to the fitting.

They've done a winter of wood and (shhhh) coal burning and have been fine. No sign of any softness or degradation.

I'd happily use vermiculite bricks again.

 

[MdB]

Thanks all. I'll give Morsø a call tomorrow and report back what they say.

 

[Andrew Bodenham]

MdB,

It's quite normal for the firebricks to get cracked eventually - I've replaced the ones in our Squirrel after about 5 years use, and will probably do them again before next winter. So long as they're not actually falling out of place the cracking is not a problem as the bricks still do the job of protecting the stove from rapid changes in temperature.

I'd get genuine Morso replacements (numerous suppliers online). No fire cement needed as the baffle plate holds the liners in position.

You'll probably need to replace the door seals whilst you're refurbishing; again the genuine Morso kit is much better than the generic 'stove rope' that a lot of suppliers try to sell you.

A

 

[MdB]

I've spoken to Morsø and they have stated that no cement is required also and they have never heard of anyone filling the gaps in the base with cement either - it certainly isn't required. I do think it likely that this cement was the cause of the bricks failing as they really were jammed in and just wouldn't have been able to move when the stove expanded and contracted. It makes fitting the new ones a lot easier too.

 

[Lime]

I've spoken to Morsø and they have stated that no cement is required also and they have never heard of anyone filling the gaps in the base with cement either - it certainly isn't required. I do think it likely that this cement was the cause of the bricks failing as they really were jammed in and just wouldn't have been able to move when the stove expanded and contracted. It makes fitting the new ones a lot easier too.

The stuffing of all gaps with fire cement suggests to me that an effort was made to stop the air getting in so that the fire damped down hard.
Perhaps it was done because there was a problem with the original installation and control of the fire was poor... would account for damaged bricks too.

I think that confirms my original comment, namely that you need to check the draught control and all joints and seals such as door seals as mentioned earlier by Andrew Bodenham.

 

[MdB]

I think that confirms my original comment, namely that you need to check the draught control and all joints and seals such as door seals as mentioned earlier by Andrew Bodenham.

Yep, this is something I plan to do. I have everything in bits at the moment so can look at everything. New seals is something I'm planning on getting.