Starting Out and need restoration advice

[haf]

So - finally completed on my purchase (https://www.rightmove.co.uk/properties/154070435) and thanks to folks for the advice on my original thread ( https://www.periodproperty.co.uk/forum/threads/first-period-property-purchased-now-what.19391/ ) and a short video

Having had a bit of time to think and plan the multi-year renovation, my first focus is on the options to get max insulation (wall, loft, rafters, floor, windows) as that will influence what type of heating system to go for - ideally a ground source heat pump if poss - default is oil boiler as existed prior.

The building is derelict and came with planning and a load of LBC's approvals for things like wall insulation, chimney repairs, internal repairs etc even including approval for an on-site to the the main bedroom - which surprised me.

Anyway, the wall insulation details seem thorough, though I am unsure if they are the best way to add insulation to lime plastered walls.

This other drawing alongside the above makes no sense to me.

That aside, there is no mention of floor/roof rafter/loft/window insulation so I am going to have to find out what the options are and then apply for an LBC.

The roof has plenty of space and is partially boarded with lighting and what seems like new rafters from 10-15 years so I can add a ton of loft insulation but not sure If I can insulate the top roof at all.
The floor downstairs is 50% concrete and 50% floor boards - there seems to be hardly any space between floor joists and the soil so not sure how I will insulate that and if UFH is an option at all.
The windows are metal single pane and I'm told the windows are a key feature so I doubt I can replace them but hopefully adding secondary gazing (double?) shouldn't be an issue but will check.

As an aside, I am not sure how LBC's work once you have the decision to go ahead - i.e do they just leave me to it and assume I will do whats in the LBC or does someone come and check like building regs. Most of the LBC's don't involve building regs type checkpoints so any advice appreciated.

ps - in my original thread I said I had no water supply but permission to take a connection from a mile away at my own cost - luckily the seller agreed to run the water connection to my property and I only have to look after the maintenance - so at last I am sorted on water/electric/phone at minimal cost.

 

[aockenden]

What is that “18 mm multiplex” stuff they’ve decided to slap on-top of the breathable gutex board?

 

[a twig]

This stuff:

Gutex Multiplex Top - Woodfibre Insulating Sarking Board

Gutex Multiplex Top is a waterproof & raintight woodfibre insulating sarking board for pitched roofs & timber frame walls to reduce thermal bridging. Gutex Multiplex Top is a carbon negative product with excellent thermal performance. Find out more today

www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com

Breathable but an odd choice for an interior.

 

[haf]

Any suggestions on an alternative/better way to do it also appreciated as the inside of the exterior walls needs the best insulation I can have. Also if anyone knows what the second drawings refers to that would be great - its on the same drawing page as the first so assume its another reference to the wall insulation somehow.. though I did think it may refer to the floor but doubt it.

 

[a twig]

I suspect that they are both the standard detailing drawings from the manufacturer and don’t actually show how the wall and floor systems would interact if you did both

 

[a twig]

There are lots of threads on here about wood fibre insulation - for example this thread covering both wood wool and wood fibre insulation options and installation methods

 

[paulc]

The windows are metal single pane and I'm told the windows are a key feature so I doubt I can replace them but hopefully adding secondary gazing (double?) shouldn't be an issue but will check.

Sounds like they might be Crittall windows. You are in luck, the company is still in existence, and they do a range of heritage windows that can get LBC approval (double glazed too). Just make sure you are sitting down when enquiring about prices.

 

[aockenden]

This stuff:

Gutex Multiplex Top - Woodfibre Insulating Sarking Board

Gutex Multiplex Top is a waterproof & raintight woodfibre insulating sarking board for pitched roofs & timber frame walls to reduce thermal bridging. Gutex Multiplex Top is a carbon negative product with excellent thermal performance. Find out more today

www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com

Breathable but an odd choice for an interior.

So in other words, wood fibre board on-top of other wood fibre board? To what end?

 

[a twig]

Guessing because the multiplex board is stiffer and easier to skim over? Perhaps there are other reasons who knows, it’s a Scandinavian set of products (I think) that I've not really seen before and I couldn’t be bothered to battle with google translate to understand the explanation

 

[haf]

You kind gents are not filling me with much confidence that I have the right wall insulation solution

 

[aockenden]

Guessing because the multiplex board is stiffer and easier to skim over? Perhaps there are other reasons who knows, it’s a Scandinavian set of products (I think) that I've not really seen before and I couldn’t be bothered to battle with google translate to understand the explanation

Ah I see, that does seem like a lot of faff.

 

[Kearn]

You kind gents are not filling me with much confidence that I have the right wall insulation solution

Doesn’t instinctively appear that it is… I’ll admit I don’t know what it is, but that’s because it’s not the usual approach(es) that are used commonly.

I would worry about following the insulation spec to the letter, do the right thing. You may not actually need to do anything, people get hung up on insulating to excess, and it’s not always needed and sometimes not actually beneficial.

LBC is a funny beast, hugely pre-loaded with stress and detailing up front, yet once it’s approved and any conditions are discharged, there is no follow up. You won’t hear from your CO again unless you need to. The only follow up, isn’t really as such, but if some nosey neighbour reports you for some alleged breach then the enforcement officer is obligated to react and make a visit.
What is important is that some meaningful element of the approved works commences within 3 years of approval otherwise it lapses and becomes void.

Also, if the building was unoccupied for 2 years or more, you can get 5% VAT…. It has constraints though , think it’s only for the first 12 months and I forget when that begins. Plus trades won’t like it as they have to adjust in their side. But it could make a meaningful dent, especially materials.

 

[aockenden]

You kind gents are not filling me with much confidence that I have the right wall insulation solution

I’d try to simplify it if I were you. Read up on the wood-fibre options available, or checkout wood wool or cork boards.

The last alternative which you can look into is thick coats of insulating lime plasters. These are best if you have curvy organic-shaped walls and want to maintain those curves. The boarding options above generally require flattening everything which can potentially reduce the character of a property and make things look more “new-buildy”.

 

[haf]

I’d try to simplify it if I were you. Read up on the wood-fibre options available, or checkout wood wool or cork boards.

The last alternative which you can look into is thick coats of insulating lime plasters. These are best if you have curvy organic-shaped walls and want to maintain those curves. The boarding options above generally require flattening everything which can potentially reduce the character of a property and make things look more “new-buildy”.

Thanks,
I am very much wanting to simplify and keep a handle on costs so will definitely be looking into the options you mention in terms of the thermal efficiency versus cost equation. Fortunately the walls are all pretty much flat/square apart from the curves around the window frames so am hoping to mostly go with well insulated boards onto of existing lime plaster and then re-skim on top. I have done many full refurbs on 'normal' houses but this Listed Building malarky seems a different kettle of wish - though much more interesting as a project.

 

[haf]

LBC is a funny beast, hugely pre-loaded with stress and detailing up front, yet once it’s approved and any conditions are discharged, there is no follow up. You won’t hear from your CO again unless you need to. The only follow up, isn’t really as such, but if some nosey neighbour reports you for some alleged breach then the enforcement officer is obligated to react and make a visit.
What is important is that some meaningful element of the approved works commences within 3 years of approval otherwise it lapses and becomes void.

Also, if the building was unoccupied for 2 years or more, you can get 5% VAT…. It has constraints though , think it’s only for the first 12 months and I forget when that begins. Plus trades won’t like it as they have to adjust in their side. But it could make a meaningful dent, especially materials.

Thanks,
I am very relieved to hear that once LBC condition is cleared, I can be left alone to get the job done without micro-inspection at every stage. I have 4-5 cleared conditions so will decide if whats proposed is the best option or if it can be tweaked to make it better.

Didn't know about 5% VAT so will look into that - especially as I can see a big bill. Though I often find that the builders merchants open to these sorts of arrangements often work out more expensive than finding the best price online etc.

Also I came across a super useful guide on the heritage website which has 30 odd pages of detail on what does and doesn't need LBC. Quite a lot of what I am needing to do doesn't seem to need it - which is a relief. HEAG304 Listed Building Consent.pdf