pgoodcake
Member
- Messages
- 8
- Location
- Pennsylvania, United States
I've used a pad saw (as used for hacking plasterboard/drywall) in the past to cut a brick out of lime mortar. Makes a mess of the saw eventually.If you're very careful with a decent plugging chisel you might be able to get it out whole and turn it round,
That's an option if you'd prefer, you use lime mortar. I find it's usually best to apply with a plastering trowel. It won't last as long as turning the brick around though.Thank you all!
Has anyone sealed the brick to prevent further spalling, or does that increase spalling by retaining moisture in the brick?
If you mean painting on a clear silicone waterproofer on all the good bricks, it's not generally considered to be a good idea, for the reason you state.Thank you all!
Has anyone sealed the brick to prevent further spalling, or does that increase spalling by retaining moisture in the brick?
Entropy is kind of unavoidable and ultimately all things will turn to dust - even bricks, But.... you can delay that outcome a bit by following some of the advice already given.If bricks are deteriorated to the point of needing replaced, should I replace with antique, used bricks (won't they eventually deteriorate too?) or try to find a modern brick that looks antique if there is such a thing?
Does this house need repointing with lime mortar to prevent further spalling?
I agree with Cubist, it matters not. We have buildings many hundreds of years old with original bricks! I've a Roman city remains near me (Wroxeter) that has many bricks in it's remains that have survived around 2,000 years of the beautiful British weather so far - though admittedly they were buried for a fair chunk of that.If bricks are deteriorated to the point of needing replaced, should I replace with antique, used bricks (won't they eventually deteriorate too?) or try to find a modern brick that looks antique if there is such a thing?
Does this house need repointing with lime mortar to prevent further spalling?