atlasfever
Member
- Messages
- 167
Hello,
Background: Georgian flat, 1st floor
Question: Does anyone have any experience with soundproofing as it relates to these two product suppliers (supply to trade)?
www.soundstop.co.uk
Walls: SS20, a rubberized thick material that glues on to the wall, and then plasterboard added to it.
Ceilings: Genie clip system, similar to resilient bars, but for some reason, it's better
Floor (airborne only): Tecsound 50 for airborne sound coming up through floor. Variation is to include DB boards also (I'm not so worried about impact noise).
www.soundreduction.co.uk
Walls: maxiboard held by resilient bars, then plasterboard
Ceilings: maxiboard held by resilient bars, then plasterboard
Floor: can't find equivalent to tecsound 50. They have acoustilay, but that's for impact. I just care about sound.
Challenge:
My challenge is that the previous builders did a hack job to the walls and ceilings.
For example, Wall: I would like to soundproof my bedroom wall as it is a timber wall that flanks the communal staircase of the building. The lathe plaster covers the wall up to where you would have a dado rail. Below that, the builders put super thin card against the timber studs. You can literally see through to under the staircase
So, I would like to just leave the lathe plaster and afix a sound solution to it (understand it's a great block already), but something smart has to be done about the bottom 25% of the wall
For ceiling: Same builders had removed the cornice from the bedroom, but left the lathe plaster ceiling. I only saw this once we discovered there was a false ceiling (done for other pipe reasons i think). So, now, I have an island of lathe plaster ceiling with a perimeter of nothing, just joists visible.
For floors: I am interested in airborne noise reduction as priority, so thinking of putting acoustic mineral wool between joists and 'draping' tecsound 50 across the joists so that the underfloor heating (which sits between the joists, not as a floating layer) is above it. Then, put the floorboards on top of joists as per normal.
For doors: I have no idea. Seems like this is just not really possible.
Any experience with all of the above? Thanks.
Background: Georgian flat, 1st floor
Question: Does anyone have any experience with soundproofing as it relates to these two product suppliers (supply to trade)?
www.soundstop.co.uk
Walls: SS20, a rubberized thick material that glues on to the wall, and then plasterboard added to it.
Ceilings: Genie clip system, similar to resilient bars, but for some reason, it's better
Floor (airborne only): Tecsound 50 for airborne sound coming up through floor. Variation is to include DB boards also (I'm not so worried about impact noise).
www.soundreduction.co.uk
Walls: maxiboard held by resilient bars, then plasterboard
Ceilings: maxiboard held by resilient bars, then plasterboard
Floor: can't find equivalent to tecsound 50. They have acoustilay, but that's for impact. I just care about sound.
Challenge:
My challenge is that the previous builders did a hack job to the walls and ceilings.
For example, Wall: I would like to soundproof my bedroom wall as it is a timber wall that flanks the communal staircase of the building. The lathe plaster covers the wall up to where you would have a dado rail. Below that, the builders put super thin card against the timber studs. You can literally see through to under the staircase
So, I would like to just leave the lathe plaster and afix a sound solution to it (understand it's a great block already), but something smart has to be done about the bottom 25% of the wall For ceiling: Same builders had removed the cornice from the bedroom, but left the lathe plaster ceiling. I only saw this once we discovered there was a false ceiling (done for other pipe reasons i think). So, now, I have an island of lathe plaster ceiling with a perimeter of nothing, just joists visible.
For floors: I am interested in airborne noise reduction as priority, so thinking of putting acoustic mineral wool between joists and 'draping' tecsound 50 across the joists so that the underfloor heating (which sits between the joists, not as a floating layer) is above it. Then, put the floorboards on top of joists as per normal.
For doors: I have no idea. Seems like this is just not really possible.
Any experience with all of the above? Thanks.