slate roof...extending drip edge?

[jungle_jim01]

I'm having a slate roof phase at the moment! I'm learning a lot, but this has stumped me. I was chatting to my father who mentioned that on the slate roof they had replaced about 15 years ago, the starter course wasn't installed with enough overhang to effectively drip into the gutter. Why he didn't sort this out back then i don't know!? but i've found myself trying to find out if there's a way to replace or extend the starter course without ripping up the whole roof? All i can think...is possibly taking up the second line using a slate removing tool, then removing and replacing the starter course before re fixing the second line with hooks?...I'm sure someone out there will have an obviously better solution?

 

[Feltwell]

Not sure it's much easier, but stripping the bottom layer of slates out and then fitting felt support trays prior to refixing would do much the same job. The bottom of the tray protudes out over the gutter, so if the slates are still a bit short to move down whilst still giving enough headlap, this will catch any wayward drips.

http://www.diynot.com/shop/Felt_Support_Tray_15M_Pack_of_5/8205

 

[Penners]

Wouldn't it be easier to re-position the gutter?

 

[robgil]

I was gonna say, push the fascia boards back a few cm's then re-fit the gutter.

 

[Feltwell]

Wouldn't that mean having to trim the end of every rafter? Easier to take the bottom row of slates off!

Jim, for a "quick fix" (or some may say non-destructive bodge!) you could trim down the top of felt support trays I posted up and see if they can just be pushed under the bottom row of slates a small amount for a friction grip. If the roof has felt be careful not to damage that though, the tray must go under the felt. The trays are very thin & light.

The trouble with "temporary fixes" is they have a habit of becoming permanent.........or at least very long term!

 

[Penners]

Wouldn't that mean having to trim the end of every rafter?

It all depends on how the gutter is fitted. Sometimes it's hung on the rafter ends, as you've mentioned, and sometimes it's supported on brackets attached to the wall.

The practicability of my suggestion would certainly depend on how it's been done.

 

[robgil]

I would opt for trimming the rafters myself, only because I am in the process of such a task as we speak. Isnt the first coarse of roofing tiles and their gauge quite important? I know with shingles it is , a double layer of shingles on the first coarse etc. But then again slate is probably a whole different ball game.

 

[Penners]

I know with shingles it is , a double layer of shingles on the first coarse etc. But then again slate is probably a whole different ball game.

No, you're right.

 

[robgil]

Yay.

 

[Feltwell]

Wouldn't that mean having to trim the end of every rafter?

It all depends on how the gutter is fitted. Sometimes it's hung on the rafter ends, as you've mentioned, and sometimes it's supported on brackets attached to the wall.

The practicability of my suggestion would certainly depend on how it's been done.

It was the fascia boards comment wot confused me Guv', but looking back at Jim's post he doesn't mention them so maybe there are none - I blame Rob! :wink:

 

[middi]

If there is no faciaboard ,ie:-just visible end rafters or sprockets, adjustable gutter brackets ( height or depth) can be purchased and fixed under the rafters ( or sprockets), or on the side of these.

Middi