Sealing slate floor

[FamilyWiggs]

Have just finished laying the riven slate flags - nearly killed me; 60 kg each flag!

Wondering what to seal them with now. Was thinking of boiled linseed oil, as quite like the way the sills look. My questions are:

a) What would you recommend sealing the floor with - preferably not modern chemical based. As the surface is nicely riven, an impregnator rather than coater is preferred.

b) If I use linseed oil, how many coats and will it attract dust/dirt and/or go sticky? A matt(ish) (satin?) finish is preferred to high gloss.

Whilst they may be traditional, I don't think I'd get mutton fat or bulls' semen past SWMBO...

 

[Jon Maine]

We used boiled linseed on a slate floor. It has a sheen to it. It has been traffic waxed a long time ago and more recently cleaned with ecover floor soap which again gives a gentle sheen.

As I remember it dilute boiled linseed with at least 50% turps. Apply all over after half an hour or so wipe off all excess. Leave 24 to 48 hours and repeat again. Then when fully hardened/dried you are ready to use.

 

[andrew gayton]

i used raw linseed oil and turps on my pamment and brick floor so as to allow the oil to penetrate the pamments rather than just drying on the surface and forming a weaker surface film................

 

[Craig]

& proper turps smells so nice!!!

 

[FamilyWiggs]

Where can I buy turps? The DIY sheds only have turps substitute - the label itself was scary, just listing the petrochemical horrors inside!

 

[Ian Bond]

Interesting you should ask.

I've been doing some research recently, looking into what materials are needed for traditional repairs and where's best to get them from.

It's not easy, as you've found with turps and Nemesis found with NHL lime. It can also be very expensive as we know.

http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/b/BIRGTURP/

and

http://www.linseedpaintcompany.co.uk/ourproducts.html

The Period Property Shop has a good range of the traditional materials that are so rare in Builders' Merchants. Hurrah for the gift of the interweb, which makes finding all these specialist suppliers so much easier.

 

[Ian Bond]

Travis Perkins sell Rustins turpentine too.
http://www.rustins.co.uk/product.htm?chgprod=PURT

Although more expensive than the online purchased stuff, you may be able to save by collecting yourself.

But I'd call beforehand to check they've got it.


Ditto with Raw Linseed oil, which is also not sold everywhere. However, I'd be keen to make sure that the oil is as pure as possible, to avoid problems with mould growth.

http://www.greenshop.co.uk/documents/Paint/Holkhampics061207.pdf

 

[michael]

Some years ago, I laid some handmade Spanish terracotta floor tiles each (6”x 6” x ½”thick) on my bathroom floor. The supplier advised that I should use “double boiled” linseed oil to seal them, not single boiled. The tiles were sealed before laying them with about six coats of the oil, the first five coats just absorbed straight into the tiles, the sixth and final coat started to puddle on the surface so it was essential to wipe of the excess before allowing them to dry outside, stacked like a house of cards, for about a week before laying them. Result – completely waterproof tiles with a natural matt finish with the option to buff them to a shine with beeswax if required.
I don’t know how absorbent slate flags are. Do you have a spare one to practice on?

 

[Nemesis]

Never use bees wax or linseed oil as a protective coating.

http://www.tilesoc.org.uk/conservation1.htm

Victorian encaustic and geometric floor tiles are usually made of fairly robust ceramic.
The most common problems encountered are;

Dull dirty appearance due to over a hundred years of wear and tear.

Paint spills and encrustations of other coatings.

Grease, oil or rust stains.

Ancient coatings of waxes and linseed oil which have absorbed into the body of the tiles and turned black.

Dirty and missing cement grouting.

 

[Moo]

Our local city-centre ironmonger** stocks something called Genuine Turps by a firm called Bird Brand in its Craftsman Range. It costs £7.15 for 1 litre; £15.95 for 2.5 litres, and £31.75 for a 5 litre tin.

Another source might be an artists' supply shop.


**Thorns, in Exchange Street.

 

[Ian Bond]

Thanks Moo.

It's great if you can find a local stockist, and pick it up yourself to save delivery costs. I'll keep a lookout for an art shop and ask - hopefully I can get a big bottle of turps at a good price. Ditto for Raw Linseed oil.

I was in Tr*v*s P*rk*ns earlier today - they are supposedly a stockist of real turps but only had the substitute. Neither did any of the other merchants or DIY places in the area.

Buying it online cost me £20.14 for 2.5L, but it saved me wasting even more of my own petrol.

It's frustrating that so few ingredients are needed to make everything you need, yet some are no longer stocked everywhere. Whilst there are 1000s of useless modern alternatives (that don't do what they say on the flippin tin) freely available.

 

[Jon Maine]

I have used bird brand before http://www.birdbrand.co.uk/

Lots of oils and turps etc

 

[Ian Bond]

Thanks Jon, another one for my web Bookmarks.

The 5L tin works out just a few pennies dearer than the stuff I've ordered from decorating direct. However, for more hardcore decorators Bird Brand offer a huge 25L drum of the stuff for a bulk saving.

 

[Jon Maine]

Thanks Jon, another one for my web Bookmarks.

The 5L tin works out just a few pennies dearer than the stuff I've ordered from decorating direct. However, for more hardcore decorators Bird Brand offer a huge 25L drum of the stuff for a bulk saving.

Yes I purchased in bulk from them 25l + and found them to be cost effective and good service too.

 

[andrew gayton]

Our local city-centre ironmonger** stocks something called Genuine Turps by a firm called Bird Brand in its Craftsman Range. It costs £7.15 for 1 litre; £15.95 for 2.5 litres, and £31.75 for a 5 litre tin.

Another source might be an artists' supply shop.


**Thorns, in Exchange Street.

triffic shop.