Sash windows renovation...

[MarkH]

So, I have a lot of sash windows (and a couple of casement ones!) in dire need of renovation. I'm intending to whip them out and strip, re paint and refit. However, it's winter, cold and windy so I'm going to have to block the frame - probably with a piece of marine ply secured from the inside (challenges of having to do this either 3 storeys up and/or over a lean to).

Anyway, any tips on good paint strippers and paint choices? I understand there are some trade products which are better than nitromors so want to be fore warned before wasting any money...

Thanks

 

[Moo]

I did the same with our sash windows - not because they were in need of repair, but because a century or so of paint had completely obliterated the rather delicate mouldings - and it was easier to do it when they were flat on the ground (outside, in the unloved little backyard).
I used a poultice stripper (I think it was Peelaway) and it was a very simple and satisfying process, that left all the old glass intact.

Mind you, it wasn't the depths of winter.......

 

[wobs]

Currently doing this. I just used a heat gun, but also used a regular paint stripper when I got nervous about breaking the glass. There aren't too many layers of paint on ours.

Sashes have been removed, and I have the marine ply held in place with two batons, which are attached with long bolts. The ply has a draft proofing stuck around the edge to cut down on the cold.

I have a dust mask with a rubber seal, which is a must.

Can't believe how many different products I've used so far. I may do a photo to show the full extent.

 

[MarkH]

A picture paints a thousand words as they say... may go some way to explaining why I'm trying to do this in the depths of winter! :evil:

I have considered using a heat gun but prior experience has told me this often leads to cracking the glass (though one pane has already cracked) so I thought chemicals may be easier. Though most of the paint looks as though it will just fall off anyway.

I've heard there are some good 'natural' paints available for doing wood rather than trusty Dulux, are there any recommendations of what people usually use on here?

 

[plasticpigeon]

You can use a heat gun to get paint off the rails and stiles or whatever they are called on a window, but on glazing bars and near the glass stripper is better. I have had good results with a poultice type stripper. Peelaway has worked for me but there are others. I gaffer taped plumbers heatproof mat to the glass when using a gun, after breaking glass with the heatgun. not a nice job as there are so many nooks and crannies but results are very satisfying.

 

[wobs]

I've heard there are some good 'natural' paints available for doing wood rather than trusty Dulux, are there any recommendations of what people usually use on here?

The standard answer here is linseed paint. The vapour permeability is much greater than any gloss paint, and longer lasting.

It likes warmth to aid in drying, so this is not the best time of year to be doing this, but I have a 2nd born's bedroom to renovate before she grows too big for where she's sleeping now.

As for wet rot - there are fillers on the market now which are a big improvement on previous kits, although not cheap. The regular two part filler you get from most DIY shops is good, but a better system for larger holes and to aid splicing in new bits of wood involves a twin mastic tube, which mixes a two part filler in a 50/50 mix, such as here:


http://uk.repair-care.com/
I haven't used this (I used the Timbabuild). Had to check moisture of wood (18% or lower), and apply two part hardener, followed by the two part filler. Spliced in the new wood, and worked smooth the filler. Worked really well, but then it was expensive enough. I got it from a local decorating supplier, and he lent me the double barrelled mastic gun for the job.

 

[MatthewC]

I've used Repair Care and, as Wobs says, it is very expensive but it certainly did the job on my casement window (see http://houseintheenchantedforest.blogspot.co.uk/2011/10/lull-before-storm.html).

 

[plasticpigeon]

I'd have thought it easier to splice in new wood if a lot is rotten. And if a cosmetic repair is needed what about car body filler. It's a cheap 2 part epoxy filler with some kind of filler that makes it easy to sand.

 

[MarkH]

Yes, I had thought about something like a car filler - I seem to recall using polyfilla on a couple of doors in the past which worked ok.

Luckily nothing seems to be horrendously rotted, thought the bits that are seem to be the ends of the tenons on the stiles. Nothing seems to be loose so hopefully a bit of wood hardener and filler will do the trick. I'll look into the Repair Care products, my biggest problem is getting things over here as products like that usually can't travel by air so you have to make special arrangements to get it sent via sea (sounds ridiculous I know!).

I've found a local supplier who stocks these paints - http://www.osmouk.com/osmocolor.cfm?chapter=20 - so I'm going to give them a go once I've cleaned everything up. The chap in the store was very helpful and although slightly on the expensive side I hope it will be a good long term choice.

Unfortunately the weather forecast current has the words 'storm force gales' in it so no working on the frame for now!

 

[88v8]

Heat gun is good, but one can't see the 'flame' so no good near glass. For that I use one of these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLOW-LAMP-REFILLABLE-/151185286903?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item23335866f7
which despite its piffling price is an excellent tool for precision work.
However, if you have old wonky glass then take all and any precautions not to break it.

Have used Ronseal wood hardener and 2-pack in the past and recently. Very good, but the wood needs to be dry.
Will take a look at Repair Care, could be useful.

Paint - I've nothing against linseed, but I always used either lead when I could get it, or Sikkens AZ which I've found very durable.
http://sikkens.trade-decorating.co.uk/products/sikkens_rubbol_az_plus.jsp
Reassuringly expensive.

You also need to think what to use between the sash box and the brick/stone - a flexible caulk, or trowel mastic perhaps, as there will always be movement. Unfortunately, doing this in the winter when the wood is relatively damp/swollen, inevitably means you will need to revisit it in the summer.

And finally, if south or west facing, paint the exterior in light colours to minimise heat gain. Save your dark shades for the north where the sun don't shine.

PS. Where are you... edit your profile to show your location, helps when suggesting suppliers.

Ivor

 

[MatthewC]

Repair Care is more than just a filler - it is structural and can be used at joints after removal of all rotted wood. As I recall the minimum thickness needed is 5mm, so it's not a glue either!

Whether it can hold the sagging lower cross-member of my 2 over 2 sash windows to the vertical glazing bar is a question I shall be considering next summer when I start the long awaited task of refurbishing my windows (after I've built my shed...). Two of them are currently held together by a flat right angle bracket in that position.

 

[plasticpigeon]

I would still rather patch in with wood if more than a cosmetic repair.