Rooflight Question

[K8]

Hi

I have searched and found interesting posts to help me but I couldn't find the specific answer I was after.
I know some of you may cringe but I will be fitting a pair of Velux conservation rooflights to repair/replace my existing alliminium rooflights. The size is near identical and my builder is OK with fitting and I can get them locally with ordering.

My question is for anyone who has a GVA can you open it fully please?
I am trying to establish that the roof light is not hinge bound.

I hope they are rust proof too being metres from the sea...

 

[Nemesis]

I can't answer that - but I can say they look better than modern ones IMHO!

If opening is an issue you can get side hung escape ones.

Or try giving Veux a ring and asking?


http://www.above-it-all.co.uk/loft_windows/conservation_rooflight.htm

 

[K8]

the side hung one is too big for the available hole.

I have already rung Velux, sorry should have added that. And the person I spoke to did say yes (though it is not documented and they only knew as they had previously asked someone else) but nothing beats someone's own personal experience of this so I thought to ask

 

[Ian Bond]

Hi

I have 2 Velux GVAs (top hung) in my roof, and having just checked - they open by slightly less than 90 degrees from the closed position

I've had them in for about 8 years now, and they're still OK, but I'm about as far away from the sea as you get in the UK!

Let me know if I can help further,

Ian

 

[K8]

thank you Ian.
are they hinge bound or bound by hitting your roofing material please?

I wonder if they have changed the design, as I was led to understand that they are not hinge bound and would open fully (though not stay open onless held)

 

[Nemesis]

Totally off topic - Hi Ian - hope things are going OK for you!

 

[Ian Bond]

Hi

Good point - the top edge of the frame is level with the stone tiles, and the tiles at the back are stopping the window from opening fully.

I've got as good a look as possible at the hinges, and I don't think they would bind - so it is just the tiles stopping full opening.

Here's a pic:



And the inside view, plasterboard removed and laths nailed up waiting to be plastered.



It looks like the GVAs should be OK.... but won't your tiles also get in the way, if the window sits low in the roofline like mine?

Ian

 

[Ian Bond]

Totally off topic - Hi Ian - hope things are going OK for you!

Hi Evelyn,

Going OK thanks - still working on my house full time (a year later) and it's a bit further on - thanks for asking.

Cheers

Ian

 

[K8]

thank you Ian that is really helpful.

My current rooflights are not tile bound but hinge bound and only open about 60 degrees. I have clay pantiles, the old wave shape ones, but I think I need to assess it all again following your very helpful pictures.

 

[Ian Bond]

Hi

No probs - just let me know if you need more photo's to check anything else.

I've found the GVAs to be OK, certainly better than the huge modern style V*lux windows that were in before.

The handles are very basic, and can be a bit fiddly to close fully. The internal lining is black plastic to simulate cast iron - not the very best quality windows available.

Have you looked at:
http://www.therooflightcompany.co.uk/conservation

 

[Nemesis]

We have original cast lights. In winter the metal gets condensation and drips - so possibly the plastic prevents that.

(Nice laths!!)

 

[K8]

I did look at that site but the sizes are not close enough to what I have already.
I think I need to double double check that I really am hinge bound and not tile bound incase I go to all that length to change them and have the same problem.... sometimes the obvious is right there... but you miss it, still taking time to research hopefully means I wont do what I didn't need to..

(not really a new member just lost my account details etc.)

 

[Ian Bond]

We have original cast lights. In winter the metal gets condensation and drips - so possibly the plastic prevents that.

(Nice laths!!)

No condensation so far - mind you it's very well ventillated.

Ta - managed to save half of the original L&P ceiling and walls despite lots of damage and 2 layers of plasterboard. Sadly the laths had been removed previously from the other half. I'm glad I didn't have to re-lath the whole lot - such a lot of nailing!

 

[Nemesis]

And expense!

 

[Flyfisher]

I hope they are rust proof too being metres from the sea...

Might be worth talking to the manufacturer about this. Even standard stainless steel will corrode in sea water but there is a specific marine-grade for such applications.

 

[K8]

thank you for the tip.

Maybe I need to stick with my existing allu ones and see about changing the hinge if I need too

 

[Geoff Flegg]

Hi.

Have you looked at:
http://www.therooflightcompany.co.uk/conservation

I've fitted 3 of their "Replica" rooflights, which is their budget version (still damn expensive though!) - and I have to say I'm impressed, they are really good.

Personally I think these look better than the Velux conservation ones, but that's just my opinion! The replica rooflights were definitely more fiddly to fit than a standard Velux though - don't know how they'd compare for fitting with a Velux conservation one.

 

[Nemesis]

The conservation type rooflights are interesting in that they are mostly flush to the roof. I appreciate this is to look unobtrusive, fit in with conservation area roof planning stuff etc, but I have original roof lights and they are raised slightly from the roof, with a cast base which goes under the slate. They are only small so from the ground it isn't really noticeable, but I wonder if this was so they would clear any slates/tiles at the rear and open more fully if required?

Not sure why they need to be opened so wide, but just a thought.