Removing carpet glue and old cement from quarry tiles

[TheSpid]

Will this stuff work? https://www.ltp-online.co.uk/prod/ltp-grimex

Any other advice? Please? Before I give up and die.

 

[noj]

Probably not... sorry

You'll need at least two products
For the cement you need something like brick acid
For the glue you need the right solvent for that glue - your choice may work - as might this https://www.stripperspaintremovers.com/product/adhesive-remover-510/

 

[TheSpid]

Ug - blooming heck - might just dig it up then and pop in limecrete and UFH and put oak planks down - not sure I like them enough for it to be hard work. Where as the lime crete and UFH IS worth the hard work.

 

[Pennyviz]

SDS chisel then brick acid for cement and probably adhesive if hard enough. It is hard work but worth it I think ...

 

[Feltwell]

It is hard work but worth it I think ...

OOoo - lovely!

I've got a not dissimilar floor, but without the black tiles. Did you regrout those, if so what with? Mine has fortunately only ever been covered up with carpet, so apart from the inevitable gripper rod damage and where some Neanderthal hacked a pipe across the floor - luckily next to the back door, so a door mat covers it - it's not too bad. It does need regrouting though, and the tiles are quite worn & grubby in places.

 

[88v8]

might just dig it up then and pop in limecrete and UFH and put oak planks down

Noooooo :shock:

Wood is an insulator. A wood floor on top of ufh is bonkers. And If it's old wood, it will shrink and warp, if it's new engineered wood it will look crap.

Neighbours up the road did that, or rather their idiot architect did. Wood over ufh. Would be cheaper to heat the house by setting light to fivers.

Repeat after me, wood is an insulator, wood is an insulator!!
You wouldn't put fleecy jackets on your radiators, would you?
Or perhaps in your part of the world, you would. Some weird people in these far-off lands

Ivor

PS getting up old tile adhesive is a problem. One sees the question on trade forums, I don't think there is an easy answer, sorry. My starting point, old wood chisel, with the corners rounded off so it won't scratch.

 

[TheSpid]

might just dig it up then and pop in limecrete and UFH and put oak planks down

Noooooo :shock:

Wood is an insulator. A wood floor on top of ufh is bonkers. And If it's old wood, it will shrink and warp, if it's new engineered wood it will look crap.

Neighbours up the road did that, or rather their idiot architect did. Wood over ufh. Would be cheaper to heat the house by setting light to fivers.

Repeat after me, wood is an insulator, wood is an insulator!!
You wouldn't put fleecy jackets on your radiators, would you?
Or perhaps in your part of the world, you would. Some weird people in these far-off lands

Ivor

PS getting up old tile adhesive is a problem. One sees the question on trade forums, I don't think there is an easy answer, sorry. My starting point, old wood chisel, with the corners rounded off so it won't scratch.

Floor was finished in May. No wood.

 

[88v8]

Oops. Hadn't noticed the date of your previous post. Where's me lorgnettes....

 

[Pennyviz]

It is hard work but worth it I think ...

OOoo - lovely!

I've got a not dissimilar floor, but without the black tiles. Did you regrout those, if so what with? Mine has fortunately only ever been covered up with carpet, so apart from the inevitable gripper rod damage and where some Neanderthal hacked a pipe across the floor - luckily next to the back door, so a door mat covers it - it's not too bad. It does need regrouting though, and the tiles are quite worn & grubby in places.

Thank you! Yes the brick acid trashed the grouting. Regrouted with 3.5 and fine soft sand if I remember correctly. Then sealed with ltp breathable sealer.

 

[Craig89]

Thank you! Yes the brick acid trashed the grouting. Regrouted with 3.5 and fine soft sand if I remember correctly. Then sealed with ltp breathable sealer.

Out of interest is that brushed in dry?

I have read some very old tiling books that mentioned using cement mixed with water to create a slurry for the joints.

I ask because I have both quarry tiles and geometric floor tiles to fit and grout in the future.

 

[Pennyviz]

Thank you! Yes the brick acid trashed the grouting. Regrouted with 3.5 and fine soft sand if I remember correctly. Then sealed with ltp breathable sealer.

Out of interest is that brushed in dry?

I have read some very old tiling books that mentioned using cement mixed with water to create a slurry for the joints.

I ask because I have both quarry tiles and geometric floor tiles to fit and grout in the future.

No wet, I did try dry on the brick section of the floor, but there wasn't quite enough moisture, and as it is a kitchen I needed to hoover. at some point The sponge float grouting tool was one of the best purchases I have made in terms of labour saving as it is a messy job.

I suspect a lot of the moisture escapes via the joints so I would hesitate with cement, especially as one of the reasons for removing the layers of tiles and screed on top of the tiles was that I was getting moisture creeping up the walls instead of escaping via the floor. A plinth heater has helped too.