Re: Skirting boards

[Anonymous]

Hi
I am a joiner and agree with david penrose.
when I fit skirtings to curved bays I use the method of cutting slits in the reverse of the board as deep as i can getaway with (just over two thirds of the thickness) the skirting should be quite floppy and great care should be taken in supporting it whilst moving it to the location your going to fit it to. just perious to the next stage you should apply grippfill to the wall to skirting in place ( if your wall is dusty cote with pva and let it fully dry ) then I lay in face side down dampen each slit with cold water and squirt adhesive (it is very important that you use a pu adhesive not pva) along each slit ( this adhesive slowly expands when in contact with water and dries waterproof ) at this stage lift the board so it is facing you and slowly push the board into position following the contours of the wall this should not be difficult if your cuts are deep and close together. you should now use a length of board to hold each end of the skirting into position fix though this board into each and of the skirting and leave over night. the adhesive you have sqirted along each slit will now expand and bond each slit together preventing it from trying to straighten itself. the skirting does not require any further fixing and if you are going to varnish the skirting use a 2 pack filler the same colour to fill any holes. I hope this is of use to you there is another method but it is not for the DIY person and too drawn out to put into words. you could always contact a good chippy who would di it for you.
this method is my own and is something I discoverd when fitting out a cruise liner. p.s. the glue I use is Bonda PU power adhesive if you need any more help contact me

 

[Anonymous]

Stephen
I like the sound of Bonda PU adhesive - I haven't tried it. Can you tell me where you get it, please?
David

 

[Anonymous]

I need to do this with 8" torus skirting and would really welcome your advice.

I've found parallel kerfs are straightforward for the flat section, but how do you avoid cutting straight through the thinner curved profile at the top? Or do you just fill later? And with a 2mm circular saw blade how far apart would you recommend to make the cuts? Cheers.

PS I can also recommend PU adhesive ( I use Wundabond Fast Grab from http://www.axminster.co.uk). It sets in a few minutes so ideal where you would otherwise need to clamp but can't. In other words it REALLY grips and fills.And it doesn't clog the cartridge so you can easily reuse later. Only downside is price (£5 per cartridge) and the fact you can't get the bl**dy stuff off your fingers!

 

[Anonymous]

You have to be prepared to ignore the effect of your cuts on the top moulding, and simply fill afterwards (simply??!!). It's a tedious job! Fortunately, 2mm is a nice thin kerf, so you'll use slightly less filler.
Cuts about 18 - 20 mm apart usually work for me, but you'll have to do a few dummy runs with some scrap wood and see what pitch and depth of cut works best for you.

 

[Anonymous]

Not for DIY person?
Stephen you will have to accept along with other trade persons, that some very experience DIY’ers are quite capable of carrying out advanced jobs in all trades.

 

[Anonymous]

To I wonder 2
I beg to differ, people who are capable of undertaking advanced jobs are
just know it alls and not diy'ers a different breed.
you obviously fall in this category a pity you cannot join in with the
spirit of this site to give and receive friendly and helpful information and
not wasting time being so obnoxious. I have not in anyway called the keen
diy'ers stupid or thick in fact I am only to willing to help them if they
already knew the answers they would not be asking for help. I am glad that I
am not as big headed as you about my skills. I do hope that anybody
requiring help does not contact you as would give them totally the wrong
idea of diy.
steve

 

[Anonymous]

Firstly yo would have to fill but there is another way?
2mm blade is fine I usually do my cuts about 28mm apart allowing for the
blade thickness the adhesive fills most of the holes and any excess can be
sanded.
The other method is to use a surface planer and machine the back of the
skirting until the profiles (top and bottom) comes away from the skirt.
you then machine a flat peice of timber approximately 5mm thick x the height
of your skirt and fix to wall using liquid nails and fixings, spead pva glue
to the back of your bottom profile and bend onto the board you have applied
to the wall use a nail gun to secure in place them repeat this process with
the upper profile thats it.
the only other medoth is make a jig to the same profile as your bay window
and bond a 4mm length of play to the back of the skirting board and clamp
around the jig leave over night and all will be ready for fixing.
is this ok
thanks steve

 

[Anonymous]

"The other method is to use a surface planer and machine the back of the skirting until the profiles (top and bottom) comes away from the skirt.
you then machine a flat peice of timber approximately 5mm thick x the height of your skirt and fix to wall using liquid nails and fixings, spead pva glue to the back of your bottom profile and bend."

 

[Anonymous]

Stephen
Firstly I was not having a go at your advice; your advice was second to none and should be greatly appreciated by anyone requiring advice on this subject. But if you felt that DIY’ers advanced or not couldn’t put your advice into practice why give it? I never suggested you called DIY’ers stupid or thick; this site receives very good advice from skilled and unskilled people alike. After reading your reply to my comment I had to go back and read mine again to see what upset you so much, I’m still baffled. Doesn’t it say somewhere that a professional in something is someone who makes a living from their profession and not that it makes them any better than an amateur who does it for the love of it?