Protecting forged iron

[Kearn]

I've a number of hand forged iron door hinges and a few hooks plus some cast iron door furniture, all of which has cleaned up very nicely from years of paint. I had used a layer of Mylands wax over the bare metal, as with the plank doors, but recent lime plastering in the room has caused small amounts of surface rust to appearn on the metal.

I'm now wondering what to apply after removing the rust - whether there is a better surface finish to apply that will provide more of a barrier than the wax. Or whether I simply didn't do a thorough enough job of applying previously.

Any thoughts? I have seen varying opinions, including WD40...!

 

[noj]

https://www.liberon.co.uk/product/iron-paste/
Use sparingly and rub off well - rust will disappear and lasts for ages with a periodic buffing

 

[88v8]

Iron paste is good, but requires periodic reapplication and will get on the doors etc.
I'd strip off the wax, apply some Jenolite to kill the rust, then paint them with Eastwood Chassis black. It's quite thin so won't obscure the detail, and it goes off quickly so one can easily apply coat on coat.

Satin gives a good finish
https://www.frost.co.uk/eastwood-chassis-black-946ml.html

For external iron, I'd also use the primer
https://www.frost.co.uk/eastwood-extreme-chassis-black-primer.html

Ivor

 

[Kearn]

Thanks both, two hinges are not coming off of the plank door!, so I'd had a similar reservation about the paste and resulting ease/mess. All are internal, so moisture should be minimal once the plaster has carbonated.

Ivor, I clearly should know about Jenolite!! Might be overkill for removal as these have all been thoroughly cleaned and this is the slightest of surface layers that has come back due to the plaster. However, it may also be adequate for future prevention I think, so a good option. Cheers!

Maybe a daft question, but I assume the chassis black is indeed a coloured black finish? I don't wish to take anything back to black again, so a clear protective layer is required.

 

[88v8]

Yes, black.

Mmm, clearcoat, have to be lacquer then. Or satin varnish.
Not as durable, but when you've stripped the paint, I can understand you not wanting to apply more !

Actually I guess an 'authentic' finish would be a very thin flash of black paint, somewhat worn where handled or used, and a modicum of rust. I think this is what's currently referred to as the Rat Look.

Ivor