Preparing slate tiles

[JoceAndChris]

Apparently my Fired Earth tiles are arriving today, I hope so!
These:
http://www.firedearth.com/tiles/range/urban-slate/black-brushed

As well as the tiles we've bought a bunch of products Fired Earth recommend to prepare them. First they have to be cleaned in their special cleaner :roll: then rinsed with plain water. Then let to dry for some days. Then painted with colour enhancer. Then let to dry. Then painted with a coat of sealer, let to dry, then another.

All this is blocking me from being able to have a shower as Chris isnt going to plumb in the shower until he's tiled. I need to get on with this.


Just wondering if anyone else prepared natural stone or slate tiles this way and how they came out looking? Previous experience suggest that these types of finishes on stone need frequent renewal!

 

[plasticpigeon]

I have no idea, but that sounds like a lolt of products!

 

[LadyArowana]

We have something similar in the kitchen. They were cleaned off as they were a bit "dusty" from the cutting etc, and we did seal them, but then I decided I didn't like how they looked after that ( rather shiny ) so it was all stripped off. That was 8? years ago, I haven't done anything major to them since. I did keep the shiny on spare ones as I use them on the worksurface as mats, and for various other things ( some currently outside on the balcony ) they are still shiny! I would test one or two and see if you like how they look

 

[JoceAndChris]

They look lovely LadyA! Very similar indeed - do you recall the supplier and product name?

It's really interesting to see that floor - the tiles coming today are for the walls but I was really wondering about using something similar on the floor, in a larger format. Now I've seen that pic I'm no longer sure! Not because I don't like them - I do - very much - but it looks so modern and contemporary! Right for your place! I wonder if they'll actually look right in my setting? They're going to be up against the 200 year old Ancaster limestone flags in the hallway floor - there isn't a door. Maybe it's going to be too much of a clash? Hmmm.

Or maybe you just stop worrying once they're down? All the floors here are 200 years old and haven't been touched - they're either limestone flagstones or old boards which I've stained and waxed. The bathroom did have 1930s floorboards but I'm afraid we've ruined them and I believe they were intended to have lino on top anyway so weren't decorative.

As for the finish - many thanks - will do a test one in the colour enhancer and sealer and see how I like it.

 

[MatthewC]

If the ones you are buying are real slate (which they appear to be), and slate keeps water out of house roofs (which it does on my house), why do they need any treatment when they are used in a bathroom? Or am I missing something?

So long as you can put up with any moss and lichen, I think they would work fine!

Matthew

 

[JoceAndChris]

I think how a slate looks on a roof is very different to a polished slate tile. I guess you need to try to prevent them absorbing moisture, delaminating and showing water stains or other stains.

Here's some of Fired Earth's blurb:

"Sealing the Tiles:
As with all natural products, slate tiles require a certain degree of care. All slate tiles are porous, therefore it is important to seal the
slate correctly to reduce the natural absorption and maintain the desired appearance. If the recommended care system is used the
surface will be easier to maintain.
It is important for the correct products to be used when sealing, finishing and maintaining your tiles. The products we have selected
have been specifically chosen to enhance, protect and maintain your tiles. You should expect the sealing process to darken both the
tiles and grout.
Please be aware that any deviation from our recommendations could affect the appearance, capabilities and longevity of your tiling
Preparation:
Prior to sealing the adhesive bed should be dry and cured and the grout joints clean, dry and free from adhesive residues, dirt, dust
and other loose debris. The tiles must be dry and clean otherwise you may seal in dirt or moisture which will impair the final
appearance. The process of sealing should be kept meticulously clean and all materials including brushes and cloths etc should be
new and unused.
The drying times recommended below may be altered by the actual site conditions (heat, humidity, ventilation etc). Please refer to the
manufacturers’ guidelines on drying times for each product – be led by your professional installer.
Fired Earth recommends that traffic across a newly sealed floor is kept to a minimum for the first week as sealants can take a few days
to fully oxidise and may not be fully effective during this time.
There are two options available when sealing stone tiles. Option 1: Sealing only. Option 2: Enhancing the colour and sealing.
Fired Earth would suggest testing your chosen option on a spare tile to ensure you are confident with the application of the
products and to ensure the look you wish to obtain is achieved.
Option 1 – Sealing Only:
Fired Earth recommends sealing slate with Lithofin MN Stain Stop or MN Stain Stop ECO (a water based and nearly odourless
alternative to solvent based MN Stain Stop). We recommend that a number of sample tiles are tested for porosity, which will give an
indication of the amount of sealer the tiles will require.
• Check the tiles are completely dry, clean and stain free (any dirt or marks left on the surface of the tiles will not be removable
after sealing).
• Shake the bottle of MN Stain Stop well before and during use.
• Test the MN Stain Stop or MN Stain Stop ECO on a single tile in an inconspicuous area or on a separate tile to ensure you
are confident with the application. If not contact Fired Earth or Lithofin Technical for advice.
• Work to the grout lines in small controllable sections i.e. 1-2 m2 at a time.
• Apply one application with a suitable applicator to the face and edges of the tile (to ensure no bleeding from the grout). Add
more product if the tile requires it within the saturation time. Allow the product to soak in to the body of the tile. It is important
to remove any excess that has not been readily absorbed within 10-15 minutes of application ensuring the surface is
completely dry before moving on to the next area. After 1-2 hours the floor can be walked on but should be left to dry and
protected from dirt and water for 24 hours.
Option 2 - Enhancing the natural colour & Sealing:
After fixing the tiles, ensure all moisture has been released before proceeding with the sealing process – be led by your professional
installer.
• Shake the Lithofin MN Colour Intensifier well and apply one application with a suitable applicator to the surface of the tiles.
Add more product if the tiles require it within saturation time, moving it around every 1-2 minutes. Completely remove any
excess that has not been readily absorbed within 10 minutes of application. Leave to dry for 12 hours before applying the MN
Stain Stop Sealant.
• Shake the bottle of MN Stain Stop well before and during use. Note: MN Stain Stop Eco should not be used with MN Colour
Intensifier.
• Check the tiles are completely dry, clean and stain free (any dirt or marks left on the surface of the tiles will not be removable
after sealing).
• Work to the grout lines in small controllable sections i.e. 1-2m2 at a time.
• Apply one coat with a suitable applicator to the face and edges of the tile (to ensure no bleeding from the grout). Add more
product if the tile requires it within the saturation time. It is important to remove any excess that has not been readily absorbed
within 10-15 minutes of application ensuring the surface is completely dry before moving on to the next area. After 1-2 hours
the floor can be walked on but should be left to dry and protected from dirt and water for 24 hours.
PLEASE NOTE: With both options, if the tiles remain glossy there is surplus sealer which must be removed. If in
doubt contact the Technical Department before continuing with the rest of the floor.
Ensure that the sealer is left a minimum of 24 hours before grouting commences."

 

[LadyArowana]

Ours came from here http://www.stonell.com/ They used to have a big showroom in Islington, but seems have closed that and now work out of a space in Teddinton. IIRC it was Brazilian. When we used them they were very helpful ( my builder had ordered from them a bunch of times for some largish contracts ) and in fact gave me the slab of granite I wanted inset into the Corian worktop in the kitchen as a GWP, they had a "sample" that was the exact right size and said they could just get another one from their supplier. It was that infamous "sample" that I went to collect unaided, because the builder said it "wasn't heavy" as in "not heavy if you're a chap with a van parked outside"...... if you're a girl who has to carry it home on the subway with a walk at either end errrr, still I got it done, and they were amused, never kicked sand in my face after that.

Personally I wouldn't use it on a floor if you're having it on walls too, unless it's a very bright space. I have seen a floor in a dark bathroom done with it and it wasn't great, in fact the person concerned ended up disliking it too ( they put it down without adhesive for her to see - after it was all bought LOL ) and it was sold on to another project for a kitchen floor.

 

[Feltwell]

Personally I wouldn't use it on a floor if you're having it on walls too, unless it's a very bright space. I have seen a floor in a dark bathroom done with it and it wasn't great, in fact the person concerned ended up disliking it too ( they put it down without adhesive for her to see - after it was all bought LOL ) and it was sold on to another project for a kitchen floor.

I once viewed a house with a dark bathroom - it had those horrible dark brown cork floor tiles, that had been varnished to make them shiny. The owner clearly liked them, or had bought a job lot. They covered not only the floor, but the bath panel as well. Plus all the walls, and the ceiling. And, I kid you not, the back of the door.

It was truly a symphony in brown, complimented beautifully by the avocado bath suite (but with a pink loo seat just to give the whole colour scheme a little twist).

"It could do with a little updating" said the estate agent brightly, no owner in sight.

"It could do with a little hand grenade" replied I.

 

[JoceAndChris]

:lol: Not keen on the sound of that at all Feltwell!

Colours always very personal, I like some rooms to be bright and light, others to be dark and moody.There isn't a huge amount of sunshine in this room after about 10 am, especially in winter. I want it to be very very dark with green wainscoting and lit only with candles. Dark is lovely!

 

[LadyArowana]

:lol: Not keen on the sound of that at all Feltwell!

Colours always very personal, I like some rooms to be bright and light, others to be dark and moody.There isn't a huge amount of sunshine in this room after about 10 am, especially in winter. I want it to be very very dark with green wainscoting and lit only with candles. Dark is lovely!

There's cosy dark and there's death row prison cell dark, choose wisely :lol:

 

[JoceAndChris]

:lol: We've got some dungeony areas already, adds character!

Well the tiles arrived and all the products. I think I'll lose the will to live if I tackle them on my own so will just postpone the idea of Chris being able to tile anytime soon and wait for him to be able to help me. The first product is an acid cleaner, you have to scrub it on and let it soak in for 10 mins, then rinse, not really possible to do all 56 in the sink in that way so I guess we'll have to lay them all on the lawn on a nice day.

At least they do look beautiful and worthy of all this work.

 

[paulc]

Having seen what is in Lithofin MN Builders Clean (phosphoric acid and butynediol), you certainly do not want to using it indoors. Outside, with thick rubber gloves, and a hosepipe to hand. If you want the full elf & safety, a hazmat suit, face shield, and respirator - Goggles would be a sensible precaution.

 

[JoceAndChris]

Thanks paulc. Will certainly wear thick gloves, goggles and overalls. I wonder if anymore is necessary with a 1 in 10 dilution. Slightly worried about my grass and my chickens. Might carry them to the field behind.

 

[steveb]

we once viewed a house that looked like a normal 1930s semi from the outside. Inside, every floor, wall and ceiling in every room was covered in wood panelling. The effect was a bit like being in a huge Swedish sauna and the owner was quite proud of it.

I am struggling to remember the reason why we didn't make an offer on that one..

 

[JoceAndChris]

Eek no I can't stand unpainted redwood in any form.

I suppose I'm influenced by Sarah Beeney's bathroom in Rise Hall - Walpole would have called the effect "gloomth".

http://fotofacade.photoshelter.com/image/I0000Q0RdhukXwXk

I think the parquet floor is wrong, it's way too cheery and modern looking for the dark green panelling.

 

[noj]

The first product is an acid cleaner, you have to scrub it on and let it soak in for 10 mins, then rinse, not really possible to do all 56 in the sink in that way so I guess we'll have to lay them all on the lawn on a nice day.

Not on the lawn!

Acid and grass don't mix well (except maybe at Glastonbury, in the very early 80's as I vaguely recall...)

 

[JoceAndChris]

:lol: Taking note of the warning - thanks!

 

[Maddie-Rose]

We did our large kitchen in natural slate, bought the riven ones first before returning as weren't rustic enough for us. This is our floor that we laid ourselves about ten years ago with sand & cement (sorry naughty word) & tbh we did nothing to them at all before we laid them, once dried we just used a basic stone tile sealer from Homebase, which was 'matt' . The last thing we wanted was a shiny floor.

Good luck