Plasterboard on original walls...

[gothiceye]

Following on from my post earlier this week (which I would really appreciate some advice on please! )

After uncovering the fireplace and chimney breast, we have a large triangular section of plasterboard to reattach so that the existing plasterboard lined wall will reach the newly exposed wall.

What is the best way to attach the board without damaging the original wall?
(I believe this should still be covered in the original LBC application which specified removing the plasterboard and making right)

...On the plus side we have finally discovered some areas where you can see layer upon layer of what looks like hand decorated wall paper (at last some indication of what the house would originally looked like!!)

Thanks for your help!

 

[Ian Bond]

I take it one wall has been plasterboarded over, and the wall that it abuts is bare brick/masonry?

How's the plasterboard fixed at the moment? Nailed onto battens over the original plaster?

I've completely removed plasterboard that had been fixed over a lath and plaster wall. Battens had been nailed into the timber framework of the original wall, and the PB was nailed onto the new battens.

Or has the board been 'dot and dab(bed)' directly to the wall / existing plaster?

 

[charlie-ia]

sorry i cant offer any help to you gothiceye. but this is kind of related.
we're taking down plasterboard that had been nailed to batons nailed directly into the wall. whats the best way to get the big nails out without bringing down the plaster?
the place looks like someone has been shooting the walls. at least a 3"crater appears around where the nails were, and other places its brought down large areas of plaster. when this happens it often takes out some of the mortar. i know some will come off, and some was only held up by the batons, but where its firm how can we minimize the damage?
any wiggling of the nails, or using a claw hammer seems to crack the plaster however careful we are. should we drill them out? is there an easy way?

 

[Penners]

Following on from my post earlier this week (which I would really appreciate some advice on please! )

After uncovering the fireplace and chimney breast, we have a large triangular section of plasterboard to reattach so that the existing plasterboard lined wall will reach the newly exposed wall.

What is the best way to attach the board without damaging the original wall?

I think a photo would help people to understand exactly what's needed.

 

[gothiceye]

I'll try and get some taken on my camera phone over the weekend, as its too dusty in there to chance my 'proper' camera!

 

[Ian Bond]

For getting those pesky nails out, I use one of these:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Gorilla-Bar-Gorilla-Bar-19492.htm

One end is shaped for removing nails, and the usual procedure is to use scrap wood to protect the surface. This is not always possible with a delicate surface.

Some damage is unavoidable, but I have got loads of nails out of walls and ceilings as follows....

I hook the lever over the nail head, and use a twisting action to grip it. Then use brute force and ignorance to twist and pull on the nail until either:

a) the nail comes free, with no damage
b) the head comes off the nail, followed by much cursing
c) the nail comes down, followed by a chunk of ceiling and 200 years worth of soot. Followed by much coughing and then swearing.

Obviously easier with large clout head type nails.

 

[charlie-ia]

£4.62 sounds a reasonable price for anything, ill certainly give that a go ta!
its hard knowing wether the bits fall down because they were going to anyway, or wondering if its damaged because of my own amateurish bumbling. having said that, bits fall off wether im in the room or not, so i dont suppose im doing too much harm (hopefully). being able to ask on here is really good, someone always seems to know of a thingumybob to do the job better.

 

[Ian Bond]

They're useful tools to have anyway.

As I mentioned above, the larger the head of the nail, the easier it will be to get a grip.

But please be extremely careful!!!!

The heads of the nails can shear off, and the bar can slip. If you are applying a lot of force, and using your bodyweight to pull the nails, a slip could do a lot of damage. To yourself, if not the wall.

I got careless pulling nails out of a ceiling, the bar slipped and I somehow managed to slice my ear. My own stupid fault. No lasting damage but it looked nasty.

 

[inwood]

If you're trying to patch a large hole in existing plasterboard (which is what I think you're trying to do) use the method described on this page:
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/h2patchdrywall
listed under 'Patching large holes in wallboard'.

You're basically using a section larger than the hole, 'glued' behind the hole as a base for new plaster which can then be applied onto the patch once the patch has set.

 

[gothiceye]

Hi - do you think this still works if the 'hole' is on one side of the plasterboard - in effect extending it a little in a really awkward shape?

Is it ok to do this in a listed building?

 

[Mark]

I would say that plasterboard at all in a listed building should not be allowed.

You say you have LBC for removing plasterboard and making good. To me that does not imply slapping more plasterboard up. You should be talking to your CO and replastering properly with lime.

 

[inwood]

You say you have LBC for removing plasterboard and making good. To me that does not imply slapping more plasterboard up.

I disagree - the LBC has been given on the basis that the wall is currently plasterboard and should be made good using the same. Just because the construction is recent doesn't mean to say it's not valid.

The conversion of the rear part of my house was done in the eighties with listed building consent using stud walling and plasterboard. When I recently applied to change a short section of stairs the CO was adamant that the changes made should replace like with like as it ensures the change is clearly recent.

There is something of a debate between CO's. Some are keen to ensure that changes are clearly identifiable as recent - i.e. not a patische olde worlde change vs. those that want to remove modern materials and replace with old.

I don't think it's that clear cut. The house I'm working on has plasterboard, gypsum, reed, daub, lime (haired and unhaired) and lath - which is the 'valid' period? There isn't one, they are all changes made at different points in the buildings history and each show the changes the building has gone through.

 

[inwood]

Hi - do you think this still works if the 'hole' is on one side of the plasterboard - in effect extending it a little in a really awkward shape?

I think a photo would really help here if you could post one as it's difficult to picture what you're trying to achieve. W

ith regards your point about whether it's OK in a listed building - I would say given that the LBC stipulated replacement of the plasterboard with the same then yes it is OK.

 

[Gervase]

Hi - do you think this still works if the 'hole' is on one side of the plasterboard - in effect extending it a little in a really awkward shape?

Is it ok to do this in a listed building?

In a listed building I would be quite happy to hack the plasterboard any which way or even replace it entirely (if the CO insists on plasterboard being used).
For patching holes in plasterboard (where old switches and sockets have been removed, or some numpty has put a boot through) I've found the best way is to cut a piece of batten four inches longer than the width of the hole (or several pieces if the hole is large), anchor a three-inch screw in the middle of the batten to provide a handle and then insert it into the hole so the ends are hidden behind the edges of the hole. Pull on your 'handle' to get the batten snug against the back of the board and then use an impact driver or electric screwdriver to put a drywall screw through the old board and into the batten, top and bottom. Remove the 'handle'. Then you can cut a new piece of plasterboard to match the hole and screw it to the secured batten backing the hole. Use fibreglass tape around the joins and then replaster.

 

[gothiceye]

Thanks for your help on this - as ever technology has given up the ghost on me (my phone has decided to no longer take pictures).

Mark - the plasterboard is covered by LBC as it is now part of the original building (installed when they converted it about 10 years before we bought it). We sought LBC for moving a plasterboard wall after the leak in the bathroom revealed an old fireplace, and also got permission for removing the plasterboard that surrounded it - but we had to replace and make good the rest of the room - Unfortunately, thought we don't really like the plasterboard, as mentioned above, it is another feature of the property and one.

Thanks for your suggestions - we were able to make a frame to fit the hole which we were able to secure to the existing battens/studs, and repair the plasterwork on the plasterboard sections.

Now - to tidy up and wait until after christmas to face the exposed chimneybreast and original wall!

 

[charlie-ia]

whats this? no smutty comment from Penners? i hope he's ok

 

[Penners]

the leak in the bathroom

Sorry for the brief absence. I was just having one too.

 

[charlie-ia]

i love you penners!
ive spent all day selling christmas trees. theyre all cut trees and i find it very depressing. (and theyre blooming heavy!)
thanks for cheering me up!

 

[Penners]

Aw shucks...