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Zebra
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The best wood filler I've found is to take some sawdust from cutting or drilling the same floorboards, sieving it to remove any lumps, and mixing it with PVA glue. When it dries it can be sanded, matches the colour of the floorboards almost imperceptibly, and is very hardwearing. If you are not cutting or drilling those boards, then could you find a wood of a similar colour, and make some sawdust?
Penners
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I've always used a two-part resin filler, like this one:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/ronseal-high-performance-wood-filler-white-550g/45077?kpid=45077&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&cm_mmc=Google-_-Shopping%20-%20Sealants%20and%20Adhesives-_-Shopping%20-%20Sealants%20and%20Adhesives&gclid=CjwKEAjwzdGxBRC3rPWZq83FzyUSJAB9IC5i05-XiZK5vs1m_ZbGhvNQwvgQd9V8RGNcQTCyjp0EwRoCVkzw_wcB#product_additional_details_container
It hardens by chemical reaction in about half an hour, after which it can be sanded, drilled and painted. It's sort of pine coloured, but if you don't like the colour you can colour it with felt-tip pens (choose indelible ones so that the colour won't be removed if you lacquer or varnish over the top). If you're filling knot-holes it's quite fun and effective to draw a knot pattern on to the filler.
Mix in the hardener very thoroughly, but don't mix more filler than you can use within about 10 minutes, as it will harden before you can use it. And don't be tempted to add more hardener than they specify, otherwise it will harden too quickly and be wasted. Apply the filler very slightly proud of the hole, then sand it down flush after it's hardened.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/ronseal-high-performance-wood-filler-white-550g/45077?kpid=45077&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&cm_mmc=Google-_-Shopping%20-%20Sealants%20and%20Adhesives-_-Shopping%20-%20Sealants%20and%20Adhesives&gclid=CjwKEAjwzdGxBRC3rPWZq83FzyUSJAB9IC5i05-XiZK5vs1m_ZbGhvNQwvgQd9V8RGNcQTCyjp0EwRoCVkzw_wcB#product_additional_details_container
It hardens by chemical reaction in about half an hour, after which it can be sanded, drilled and painted. It's sort of pine coloured, but if you don't like the colour you can colour it with felt-tip pens (choose indelible ones so that the colour won't be removed if you lacquer or varnish over the top). If you're filling knot-holes it's quite fun and effective to draw a knot pattern on to the filler.
Mix in the hardener very thoroughly, but don't mix more filler than you can use within about 10 minutes, as it will harden before you can use it. And don't be tempted to add more hardener than they specify, otherwise it will harden too quickly and be wasted. Apply the filler very slightly proud of the hole, then sand it down flush after it's hardened.
Toby Newell
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Zebra said:
Yes.
Unless your wood expands. Or you have parquet. In which case you could cause side bonding and cause the floor to rupture by limiting micro movement, as I have just detailed in a court letter survey report for a job I saw on Friday.
Lecol 7500. Cellulose resin jelly, its identical to the PVA method, except it won't destroy your floor and dries about 48hrs more quickly.
Jenkins, Mylands and Morrells do the same but they have worse solvents, I pay double for the Lecol because I value the few brain cells I have left.
Toby Newell
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Penners said:
Not as flexible as the sawdust and resin jelly and polyester resins do melt your brain but fantastic stuff, I use it to spot fill all the time.
If you buy car body filler it's cheaper, I use Upol smooth 7 in bucket sized tins.
If you buy universal paint stainers you can mix these direct into the filler and keep them in air tight tins or jars then when you need to fill a dark knot, or pine, or oak, voila, mix sand and finish, no need for pens! Although I may be spoiling the fun in one aspect, mixing the different colours is quite fun too!
chuckey
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" mixing the different colours is quite fun too! " Especially when you do it on raw wood and get a 99% colour match. Problem comes when you varnish the lot, the wood goes 3 shades darker, but the paint does not. 
Frank
Frank
Toby Newell
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chuckey said:" mixing the different colours is quite fun too! " Especially when you do it on raw wood and get a 99% colour match. Problem comes when you varnish the lot, the wood goes 3 shades darker, but the paint does not.
Frank
Frank you are obviously not concentrating hard enough on the learning process! Falling down isn't meant to be the fun part, it's smugly avoiding the trip hazards next time round that is.
Try again. And this time coat a small area with varnish before you mix your filler! After a few goes you will be able to calibrate your brain to do the shade difference in your head. Then you can mix the colour and wait for people to tell you it looks all wrong, then coat the floor and engage smug mode.
Unfortunately screwing up is part of the learning process.