Tom
Member
- Messages
- 1,136
- Location
- Charente, France
I've started this thread in response to Robgil's question on cleaning beams. Since I'm part way through doing mine, I thought it might help many people who are going to be going through a similar process. If nothing else, it might give you some hope 
So, this is day one. Here are 3 pictures showing a sample area of a carriage beam that is untouched. It's filthy and full of dust and cobwebs.
Next are 2 pictures after I've brushed the sample area. I've used a Dandy brush (normally used for grooming horses but it does beams very well !!) and have thoroughly brushed the area in all directions. This is a very, very dirty job!! You can see that, already, the grain is visible and they look more attractive in general.
Next are 3 pictures after I've applied one liberal coat of Liberon's Clear Liquid Beeswax. I've found the best thing to do with this (for me) is to warm the tin on top of the Rayburn, taking care to vigorously shake the tin every 10 minutes or so. This melts the wax to a very runny consistency and helps mix it thoroughly with the Turpentine that is the carrier. I pour a quantity into a very large plastic dog bowl with holes in the rim. This makes it easy to carry up the ladder onto the platform and very stable if you put it down somewhere I use a normal 2" bristle paintbrush to apply it. I find this is about the right size to allow you to 'stipple' it into any beetle holes (of which I have plenty!) but without having too much wax so that it drips everywhere. You'll notice that the wood goes very, very dark when this is applied....but don't worry. This is just the Turpentine and, once that''s evaporated, it will be much lighter, as you will see in the following pictures.
The tin states a minimum of 9 hours drying time. I leave mine overnight, sometimes longer.
More pictures to follow
Day Two
Here are two pictures of the area after I've buffed it up, using a Liberon Wax Polishing Brush. You can see that the extreme darkness has gone, now the area is dry, although the wood has taken on a very slightly richer colour. I must apologise for the quality of the pictures today, as I've used my phone because my 'proper' camera battery is dead :roll: Good job we're only part way through the process!
Next are two pictures after an application of a second coat of wax. Again, you'll see how it's taken on a very dark colour caused by the Turpentine. You'll see on the second picture how the wax that's filled up some of the holes is reflecting the flash.
At this stage it's timely to tell you to be extremely careful when cleaning or waxing beams that are as eaten as these. They are riddled with very sharp bits of wood, which skin your knuckles with alarming regularity! I also have a tip for when brushing up to a plastered wall or ceiling. Put a cushioned plaster (or equivalent) around each end of the back of the brush. This stop the back marking the plaster when you bang into it...which you will do!
So, that's it for today. Not too exciting at the in-between stage but you get the idea of what to expect. Another update will follow shortly
So, this is day one. Here are 3 pictures showing a sample area of a carriage beam that is untouched. It's filthy and full of dust and cobwebs.
Next are 2 pictures after I've brushed the sample area. I've used a Dandy brush (normally used for grooming horses but it does beams very well !!) and have thoroughly brushed the area in all directions. This is a very, very dirty job!! You can see that, already, the grain is visible and they look more attractive in general.
Next are 3 pictures after I've applied one liberal coat of Liberon's Clear Liquid Beeswax. I've found the best thing to do with this (for me) is to warm the tin on top of the Rayburn, taking care to vigorously shake the tin every 10 minutes or so. This melts the wax to a very runny consistency and helps mix it thoroughly with the Turpentine that is the carrier. I pour a quantity into a very large plastic dog bowl with holes in the rim. This makes it easy to carry up the ladder onto the platform and very stable if you put it down somewhere
I use a normal 2" bristle paintbrush to apply it. I find this is about the right size to allow you to 'stipple' it into any beetle holes (of which I have plenty!) but without having too much wax so that it drips everywhere. You'll notice that the wood goes very, very dark when this is applied....but don't worry. This is just the Turpentine and, once that''s evaporated, it will be much lighter, as you will see in the following pictures.
The tin states a minimum of 9 hours drying time. I leave mine overnight, sometimes longer.
More pictures to follow
Day Two
Here are two pictures of the area after I've buffed it up, using a Liberon Wax Polishing Brush. You can see that the extreme darkness has gone, now the area is dry, although the wood has taken on a very slightly richer colour. I must apologise for the quality of the pictures today, as I've used my phone because my 'proper' camera battery is dead :roll: Good job we're only part way through the process!
Next are two pictures after an application of a second coat of wax. Again, you'll see how it's taken on a very dark colour caused by the Turpentine. You'll see on the second picture how the wax that's filled up some of the holes is reflecting the flash.
At this stage it's timely to tell you to be extremely careful when cleaning or waxing beams that are as eaten as these. They are riddled with very sharp bits of wood, which skin your knuckles with alarming regularity! I also have a tip for when brushing up to a plastered wall or ceiling. Put a cushioned plaster (or equivalent) around each end of the back of the brush. This stop the back marking the plaster when you bang into it...which you will do!
So, that's it for today. Not too exciting at the in-between stage but you get the idea of what to expect. Another update will follow shortly