Period security

[plasticpigeon]

hello again!

I have been lucky enough to find an original front door for my house (it is an unusual 6 panel design that I have only seen on my street) which only has one hole cut in it for a night latch. There have been no other locks put on it other than the original rim lock. I would like to increase the security, but as the door is quite thin (1 3/8" or 35mm) I'd rather not start routing out channels for mortice locks. Does anyone know of any surface mount locks that offer reasonable security???

Many thanks

Jerome

 

[LadyArowana]

The only one I have that is like that is a Yale and it is there so the door is never really unlocked, but I have 2 others that are part of the door. I was also recommended to have a couple of hinge bolts on the other side. If the door itself is rather thin and not very secure it might be worth investigating whether it could be reinforced in some sort of sandwich with another layer behind.

 

[Lime]

Surface mounted locks rarely offer much security unless they are very expensive.
I presume the original rim lock was a simple Yale lock?

I rely on Ingersoll locks to secure my outer doors and my office.
They are extremely well designed.
The locks I have can be locked from the outside so the door cannot be opened from the inside which will foil any burglars wishing to use the doors if they break in elsewhere.

There are several suppliers, the link below shows the locks I have fitted which are the SC71 Automatic Rim Deadlocks.
They may replace your rim lock but it depends on the hole in the door.
Ingersoll mountings are very much stronger than Yale.

I suggest you fit a London Line Night latch (lower down near the bottom in the link) which looks the type of security you want.
http://www.ingersolllocks.co.uk/page28.htm

 

[plasticpigeon]

Thanks for the replies, the original rim lock was a big pressed metal lock with a large brass bun knob that only operated from the inside!

 

[Feltwell]

Would this sort of thing be in keeping?

http://www.doorhandles.co.uk/heavy-unflanged-rim-lock-c71639.html

or cheaper, but still classed as "heavy":-

http://www.doorhandles.co.uk/rim-lock-heavy-c71644.html
http://www.doorhandles.co.uk/heavy-black-iron-covered-rim-lock-c72892.html

These are suitable if you want a doorknob of course, you can get them without the latch if you just want the lock but they do seem harder to come by.

It amuses me slightly how so many people buy locks by virtue of how hard they are to pick. When did anyone last hear of a burglar picking a lock? They need to have a certain resistance of course, but their mechanical strength & ability to keep the door closed if someone's trying to force it open strikes me as being much more important.

If someone really wants to get in then they will, it's more about making it so troublesome for them that they move on to somewhere else where it is easier and they are less likely to be caught.

The classic example to me of the design being wrong is with the multi-point locking systems on UPVC doors. They feel very secure - great for the salesmen - but several times now on television I've seen either a house that's been broken into or the Police raiding a house, and the panels in those doors collapse in under a heavy boot with frightening ease. What's the point in a super-strength lock when the door structure itself disintegrates so easily? I'd bet your timber door Plasticpigeon is much stronger than many UPVC examples.

Pretty much every UPVC door seems to use a "Euro cylinder" which apparently are very vulnerable to a certain technique of attack.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-leeds-17075027

 

[Flyfisher]

Some useful information here, if you dig about a bit: http://www.securedbydesign.com/

 

[AMc]

IMHO the only point of the lock is to deter opportunistic thieves, go for one that meets your insurance company's specifications or they may argue if you need to claim.

If someone really wishes to gain access then determined boot, a length of scaffold pole or a chainsaw :shock: will always do the job. Ramraiding seemsless popular than it used to be, I wonder if that's because shop security is better or 4x4s have more impressive locks than they used to have?

 

[Flyfisher]

Ramraiding seems less popular than it used to be, I wonder if that's because shop security is better or 4x4s have more impressive locks than they used to have?

Not just 4x4s. The increasing ubiquity of car keys with electronic coding and computerised engine management systems has made the 'hot-wiring' of modern cars almost impossible. I've read that this has led to an increase in house break-ins where the target is just the car keys as it's the only way to steal them these days. Similarly with increased occurrences of 'car-jacking'.

Ultimately, AMc is quite right that no lock will deter the truly determined burglar unless, perhaps, it's attached to an armoured door in a steel frame - which is hardly in the spirit of the typical period property - but the 'right' lock is certainly an important consideration when it comes to insurance company requirements.

 

[Penners]

There's lots of good advice about locks above. I just want to add one thought. Do be sure that you read the small print of your home insurance. Most insurance companies nowadays insist on certain specs of lock - usually at least a 5-lever lock on the main entry/exit door. And you need to be sure that they will accept a non-mortice type of lock.

It's also worth checking that you comply with all their other stipulations too. You'll probably find that they require window locks on all "vulnerable" windows, plus secret security bolts on other entry/exit doors.

If you fail to comply with their requirements, you're giving them an opportunity to refuse to pay in the event of a break-in.

 

[MdB]

You also fail to meet their requirements if you have window locks and fail to use them.

 

[Flyfisher]

Good points about insurance company requirements about locks, however these are often more about 'recommendations' than absolute requirements. If you don't have window locks, for example, the important thing is to inform them, in writing. They may or may not charge a small premium or lightly increase the claim excess, but if they continue to provide cover then they will not be able to use the lack of window locks as an excuse not to pay out if you have fully disclosed all 'material facts'.

 

[Pford75]

unless, perhaps, it's attached to an armoured door in a steel frame - which is hardly in the spirit of the typical period property

Our gun cupboard has a steel plated door in a steel frame with triple locks. Seems the previous owner was a very keen hunter and had an impressive collection of highly valuable weapons...

 

[Feltwell]

I'm sure the issuing of a firearms certificate must include certain conditions on where & how the weapons are stored.

I used to work at a firm that had a break-in one night, the thieves spent a considerable amount of time and effort trying unsuccessfully to cut their way into an old Victorian safe. It was a big safe - about 6' tall and 5' square, if I remember rightly. The thing is, if they'd just tried the door lever they would have found it was unlocked - the key having long since been lost, it was used a fire-proof store cupboard for paint!

 

[Flyfisher]

I'm sure the issuing of a firearms certificate must include certain conditions on where & how the weapons are stored.

It most certainly does, and the police will actually check this before issuing or renewing firearms or shotgun certificates. Firearms ammunition is also highly controlled, with stipulations about storage and the amount held although, oddly perhaps, shotgun cartridges are not similarly restricted.