Period Decor

[Sonyaclegg]

Our house has been though many peroids of decor. It was build in 1607. What have you done with your homes where you have diffirent period to choose from? The house will have evolved through all the different decorating styles so which to choose? A mixture?

 

[Feltwell]

Whatever you + Mr Sonya like I'd say (if he gets a look in such matters! :wink. You're not removing anything that was originally there, you could legitimately pick any period up to today. Some people may have strong views on what would look best but they are just that, views.

In many ways a sympathetic modern scheme is more sensitive than a fake old one.

 

[Sonyaclegg]

We have separated this into jobs and interior decor is not one of his. I do ask for his opinions but he's really happy for me to decide. I want a simple scheme that will allow to stone work to be the main feature as it is so lovely. One the fireplaces are cleaned and pointed etc, they will dominate the rooms, expecially the enormous ones. I'm not brave enough to paint in bold colours and so lots of matt neutral colours. The feature rooms have oak floors so once they are finished, neutral tones with the stone and the wood will be ok. I've read many posts about cleaning oak. The floors and very dirty and someone suggested wiping over with white spirit to clean. Have you any experience of cleaning wood in this way? Thank you for all your replies. I've so many questions and I don't want to bombard this site!

 

[Feltwell]

We have separated this into jobs and interior decor is not one of his. I do ask for his opinions but he's really happy for me to decide.

Sounds like a wise man! I have a not dissimilar arrangement, whereby Mrs F narrows the choice down to a few options that she likes, then we jointly choose from them.

Neutral tones in matt sounds like a prime candidate for lime wash to me, but beware that it's not always very durable and can rub off on clothes, as I presume from the pictures with toys in that you have young kids. There are ways of making it more durable though, alternatively if you google clay paint there are some nice ranges in that. Others with more paint knowledge than I will be along to comment later I'm sure.

Not sure about cleaning your floors, but don't worry about bombarding the site with questions - so long as you include the odd picture of progress and don't get upset when your thread on restoring stonework ends up talking about the price of runner beans in Mumbai, you'll be fine!

 

[Penners]

Our house has been though many peroids of decor. It was build in 1607. What have you done with your homes where you have diffirent period to choose from?

We've done what we like the look of.

 

[Sonyaclegg]

I would love to paint what I like but we have to submit a painting scheme to the planners before picking up a paintbrush. There have got to be colours that we can all agree on. I just hope they don't say, cardinal red here, kingfisher blue there!

 

[Penners]

we have to submit a painting scheme to the planners before picking up a paintbrush.

Really? Even the interior colours? What grade of listing do you have?

 

[Gareth Hughes]

It's II* Penners.
But I really wouldn't be shy of bold colours. The matt white look will become very dull across the whole of what is a big house, and will make the exposed stone, not all of which is particularly interesting or attractive, stand out more that it would against a richer surface.

 

[Penners]

It's II* Penners.

Ah, that explains it.

In which case, Sonya, I would go with Gareth's advice. He's best placed to know how you should proceed.

 

[JoceAndChris]

He is. And I can't say how many hours of happiness creating a jewel-rich Regency interior, from his ideas and inspiration I've had, so many; it's been such a fun project and so much easier to live with well-placed strong colour than you'd ever think. Yes, all houses combine the different eras, different styles - but if the stonework of the 17thC has made you fall in love with the building then why not give it an appropriate context?

Starting to feel like an old witch pouring cold water on our lovely new member's ideas, of course Sonya must choose what she likes and I'll be really surprised if a neutral scheme is opposed.

But it isn't right for that house, in my opinion. I'd be looking at damasks and crewel work, antique tapestry and Zoffany's amazing ranges inspired by the 17thC, in moody blues, greens, reds and yellows.

Please please avoid bright whites, in any case, which will look so cold, and at least consider muddy and yellowed ochres in casein distemper by Rose of Jericho. Casein distemper doesn't brush off at all easily and provides a beautifully varied pigmented finish ( not flat colour) that can sit over modern emulsion without the need to strip that emulsion - and it's breathable.

 

[Sonyaclegg]

No bright whites! I like rich creams, greys, taupe etc. you get the idea. I may get bold and go mad with Blazer..a FB colour which is a rich red!

 

[Gareth Hughes]

Blazer is a bright red, which might be going too far. Book Room Red or Eating Room Red, on the other hand, are lovely. As is Print Room Yellows, which Joce can tell you all about.

 

[Sonyaclegg]

The sample I have on a card in one of upstairs beds looks good. It doesn't have a lot of light and it takes a different tone. I think I have every sample and colour book printed! They are taking over!

 

[JoceAndChris]

Me too!

Your ideas sound very contemporary, and the strong advantage of going down that route is it will be much much cheaper. You won't need to source tapestry, antiques, antique art, "period" lighting, Persian rugs etc etc. Modern things are much easier to find and afford.

However I predict your ideas will change completely within 5 years. You will visit more and more properties the age of your own, and you'll see what was done and is being done (an absolute explosion of colour and pattern in interior design just now), and you will want to paint over the taupes and greys.

I came here wanting it all dove greys and grey greens and I'm so so glad I didn't spend time and money on that quickly abandoned idea.

You come to realise that the rooms you move through quickly (like a hallway, a passage) can be statement-y; they don't need to be light colours. Likewise with formal dining rooms, the atmosphere is built with darker, richer colours, deep reds or dusty oranges. You will need a bright, light sitting room, and won't want to feel oppressed by a colour you hate in your bedroom, yet bedrooms can be very moody too - google Chenonceau!

As for cleaning your wooden floors with white spirit, it would be a bit of a Cinderella task. You can either give them the lightest of sands (by hand, being very very careful not to destroy patina), or a few days of scrubbing with a product like Liberon wood floor cleaner, taking care not to drench the floors and to mop up your surplus of filthy water (or use a suction machine) - and then putting oil into the floor, and wax.

If you'd like to get them done professionally a number of forum members have used Toby Newell who used to contribute a lot on here. He uses complex finishes with shellac and French polishes and achieves really quite staggering results that make efforts to preserve ancient patina.
http://www.floorsanding-uk.com/GALLERY.html

 

[Penners]

mop up your surplus of filthy water (or use a suction machine) - :idea: and then putting oil into the floor, and wax.

I hope Joce won't mind if I just supplement her excellent instructions (at :idea: ) with:

"...allowing the floor to dry really thoroughly..."

 

[JoceAndChris]

Absolutely Mr P! Best done in summer and allowing a couple of weeks with thorough ventilation before applying top finishes. Oil also needs to be completely dry before applying any wax.

 

[Sonyaclegg]

Thanks for the advice on floors. I had hoped the floors were solid oak but as the original floors perished while the house was open to the elements. The replacements are engineered oak boards.

Re colours, these are colours which I like

 

[tobydog]

Sonya - our new extension kitchen floor is engineered oak. Very pleased with it, however, I got lazy and left it a year between oilings which meant it got very grubby. After some time Googling I came up with a simple mix of warm water and white vinegar. I can't remember the proportions now but cheap and very effective. The vinegar doesn't leave any residue either. Worth a try.

 

[Moo]

That's good news - we've ordered exactly the same for our kitchen floor. Apparently it's more 'dimensionally stable' than solid boards.
We've had conflicting advice about laying it, however. One school of thought says it should be laid wall-to-wall, while another recommends that it should just butt up to, but not under, the cupboard legs. As far as I can gather, the builders will lay chipboard (or should that be a special sort of ply?) on top of the joists, and then put the engineered oak on top.
Does that sound ok?


PS
Sorry to hijack your thread, Sonya! The magic words Engineered Oak caused a Pavlovian reaction.

 

[Penners]

Moo - assuming your substrate sheet material is going to be laid on joists above a void above Mother Earth, I would favour a substrate of exterior grade ply (known as grade "WPB") rather than chipboard. It'll be more expensive than the chipboard, but also much more durable.

When you lay your engineered board, leave a 1/2-inch or so gap around the outside, between the flooring edge and the walls, to allow for expansion. This gap is normally covered by (ideally) the skirting boards, or a quadrant applied to the bottom of the face of the skirtings. And remember to stack the boards (separated to allow for air circulation between them) in the room for as long as you can manage, before laying them.

You may find this useful: http://www.ukflooringdirect.co.uk/info/Engineered_Wood_Flooring_Advice_Centre.html