pammenty polish

[fluffytail10]

A few months ago we had the concrete screed from our pamments, and they have been happily drying out. However, as they dry they are losing their red colour and turning white. Now they are fairly dry, I'd like to try out a few finishes which will restore their red colour.



I've read that I should use linseed mixed with white spirit but the problem is I'm highly allergic to solvents, especially white spirit. Having windows/doors open wouldn't be enough to combat that.

So does the linseed need to be thinned? Is there an alternative to solvent? Is there another breathable polish/finish for pamments available.

I have tried brushing and scrubbing with water, it does turn red while it's wet, but goes white again as it dries.

Thanks in advance x

 

[FamilyWiggs]

I've used Holkhams linseed oil on heather browns very successfully. It is delightful.

I understand it can be thinned with turps, not white spirit.

Provided it is warmed, I had no trouble with application or drying so see no need to thin it.

Of course, you have to bury the rags underground (preferably under the seabed) in case the turn your house into the Towering Inferno. :roll:

 

[plasticpigeon]

Very nice, I wish mine were as good as yours. The ones under lino and oilcloth at my place are all spalled and cracked, so much I am going to replace them. Alternatively, I heard lithofin do surface treatment that improves the appearance slightly, is non glossy, stops water being adsorbed if you spill it but still allows vapour to permeate. It might still have solvents in it though. Don't know which product it is, I just remember reading it somewhere. Maybe someone else here knows.

 

[Penners]

I don't think you need to thin the linseed oil. I would try a good quality, boiled linseed (and by that I mean that you buy it boiled - you don't boil it yourself!). Just remember that it will take longer to dry than the thinned stuff.

But try a small test are first, in an insignificant place, and see how you get on.

The alternative would be use a clear wax floor polish, such as Johnson's Traffic Wax. Once again, do a little test area first.

 

[Lime]

First before applying any oil, I'd wipe over with brick cleaner to remove any lime deposits.
... then wash thoroughly.

 

[AMc]

I'd be a little worried that red turning white is actually salt depositing? Is it possible to brush it off?

On the finish front I would normally recommend Osmo Polyx matt (Hard wax oil) as an excellent breathable finish but as it's thinned with white spirit I suspect you'll have a problem with the solvent it uses too.

You could simply mop with Ecover Floor Soap - the principal ingredient is Linseed
http://www.ecover.com/gb/en/Products/Cleaning/20050712++Vloerzeep+UK.htm

I like the fact that floor soap is Vloerzeep in Dutch (?)

 

[fluffytail10]

Well thank you all for your replies.

Yes my pamments look good in that picture - you can't see al the chips and cracks and lumps missing. However, I love them just the way they are;all wavy and pitted and worn in places - presumably where there used to be a table or chair leg. I don't think the white is salt - we've got lots of that coming through on the other pamments in the kitchen floor. I think the polished surfaces came away with the concrete screed as in a few places - where they are still red-they seem to have a more shiny surface.

Right, so I am going off to experiment. I shall try 1 bit with just linseed, 1 bit with linseed and turps, and see how it ends up.

I'll let you know
:roll:

 

[fluffytail10]

Well 4 hours after a liberal application, the linseed has sunk in and the tiles have turned back to white, they are totally absorbent. Do I need breathable varnish? Is there such a thing?

 

[Penners]

Well 4 hours after a liberal application, the linseed has sunk in and the tiles have turned back to white, they are totally absorbent. Do I need breathable varnish? Is there such a thing?

Try putting another coat of linseed on your test area, once the first coat is completely dry.

Or, as AMc and I suggested above, try a test area of a wax finish.

 

[Lime]

Well 4 hours after a liberal application, the linseed has sunk in and the tiles have turned back to white, they are totally absorbent. Do I need breathable varnish? Is there such a thing?

Well, I did warn you.
You need to remove the lime first.
Now it will be a lot more difficult.

 

[fluffytail10]

well a few more applications and it's stayed dark and shiny for 8 hours so far... Have ordered some hard wax oil too. I will give the floor a good scrub before going any further- My builder suggested doing the whole floor with scouring pad and warm soapy water;ugh my poor knees :|

 

[Penners]

ugh my poor knees

http://www.screwfix.com/p/gel-swivel-knee-pads/48256?cm_sp=Search-_-SearchRec-_-Area3&_requestid=919190

 

[FamilyWiggs]

Yep - you'll need a few coats. Eventually it stops soaking in and you then wipe off the excess with a rag (which you dispose of inside a sealed metal canister with harzard warnings).

But a goods idea to scrub the floor first. I'd think carefully before putting wax on - I'm not sure you can put oil on after this (or vice versa, I'm not sure).

 

[Penners]

a rag (which you dispose of inside a sealed metal canister with harzard warnings).

Just in case you think FW is joking, fluffytail, he's not. Linseed oil-soaked rags can spontaneously combust under certain circumstances, so whatever you do, don't leave it/them just lying around the house.

The safest approach is to wash the oil out thoroughly with detergent and then let the cloth dry outdoors, spread out flat.

 

[fluffytail10]

OMG I shall put it outside straight away - i had no idea. :shock:

Yes several coats seems to be working - I may need to buy a larger bottle of linseed oil!

Thank you all for your help x

 

[FamilyWiggs]

a rag (which you dispose of inside a sealed metal canister with harzard warnings).

Just in case you think FW is joking, fluffytail, he's not. Linseed oil-soaked rags can spontaneously combust under certain circumstances, so whatever you do, don't leave it/them just lying around the house.

The safest approach is to wash the oil out thoroughly with detergent and then let the cloth dry outdoors, spread out flat.

Penners, you know I never joke. Life is too serious for levity. :wink:

Here's what the fire brigade say about the oxidation risks of oil soaked rags. Seems the key thing is not to leave them in a pile but to spread them out. For them wot knows, it seems oil doesn't dry (evaporate) like water, but oxidises which is an exothermic reaction. Under the right circumstances enough heat can be generated to combust the material.

http://www.esfrs.org/blackmuseum/linseedOilRags.shtml

And here's some real life examples from t'internet.

http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infpai/inflinspontaneouscombust.html

 

[rebeccac]

Our floor bricks got throughly coated in lime from the ceiling when the byuilders blasted it and did not cover them up.Some of the tiles have trodden in patches of lime that's very hard to get off and others are just dusty looking.

I'd like to get all the muck off them before trying any sort of oil or wax.

These are some things I've tried:

Acid (sold in Italy to reove cement marks from bricks) -doesnt work
Scrubbing with scourer and soap - works a bit but its a big floor!
Clay poultice - no good on ingrained stuff
Gesso poultice ditto
A suggestion I've had is sawdust and sand left on damp and brushed off

Any other ideas?

www.myabruzzohome.blogspot.com

 

[Keith Bowman]

a rag (which you dispose of inside a sealed metal canister with harzard warnings).

Here's what the fire brigade say about the oxidation risks of oil soaked rags. Seems the key thing is not to leave them in a pile but to spread them out. For them wot knows, it seems oil doesn't dry (evaporate) like water, but oxidises which is an exothermic reaction. Under the right circumstances enough heat can be generated to combust the material.

http://www.esfrs.org/blackmuseum/linseedOilRags.shtml

I see the Fire Brigade also reckon washed and ironed tea towels can catch fire. At last I'm vindicated: washing up is dangerous

 

[Lime]

Our floor bricks got throughly coated in lime from the ceiling when the byuilders blasted it and did not cover them up.Some of the tiles have trodden in patches of lime that's very hard to get off and others are just dusty looking.

I'd like to get all the muck off them before trying any sort of oil or wax.


Acid (sold in Italy to reove cement marks from bricks) -doesnt work

Any other ideas?

http://www.myabruzzohome.blogspot.com

Not all acids are the same.
see thread:

http://www.periodproperty.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=13036&p=176943#p176943

You need to buy a strong acid cleaner:
http://mistralie.co.uk/products/brick-cleaner-acid-premium-brickmate

 

[88v8]

Been following this with interest, as the quarries in our dining room need some cosmetic tlc. Laid on earth, wish to maintain breathability. Boiled linseed sounds good, but is this breathable?

Ivor