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PAINT ON SASH WINDOWS
- Thread starter sarah j
- Start date
thiambal
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- Walmer, Kent
Not sure what it would do to the glass but it would almost certainly
1) dry out the wood and raise the grain and generally make them look manky.
2) loosen all the joints - causing your sashes to fall apart if you are lucky before hand, if you are unluck once you have re-installed them causing them to jam in the frames.
I would say to be avoided at all costs.
Paint can be stripped with a proprietry stripper or burnt off (but this requires great skill and is hard to do on the mouldings without cracking the glass).
Whatever you do, bear in mind that there is likely to be lead paint on the windows so take care.
1) dry out the wood and raise the grain and generally make them look manky.
2) loosen all the joints - causing your sashes to fall apart if you are lucky before hand, if you are unluck once you have re-installed them causing them to jam in the frames.
I would say to be avoided at all costs.
Paint can be stripped with a proprietry stripper or burnt off (but this requires great skill and is hard to do on the mouldings without cracking the glass).
Whatever you do, bear in mind that there is likely to be lead paint on the windows so take care.
Nemesis
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I'd talk to Strippers of Sudbury about an apprpriate stripper.
Dipping can also cause warping.
Dipping can also cause warping.
Andrew Bodenham
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- North Lancs
I've found that a hot air gun is much the best way of getting the majority of the old paint off window frames. Beware of fumes and fire risk. Yes, it's easy to crack the glass if you're not careful - masking the area locally with a sheet of metal can prevent this. But for working right up to the glass I use that highly under-rated paint removal device viz: the scraper. This can be a purpose made tool with replaceable blades, but I prefer to use a cabinet scraper or a stripping knife. The key to success is to keep the edge sharp with a file used every few minutes.
External paint usually just needs a good rub down to remove the accumulated dribbles of years. I've had good results with a power sander, but if dust is a problem then coarse wet & dry paper used wet can be helpful, especially for feathering in around flaked / stripped areas.
After all that stripping just make sure you use a good paint system. Now that's a whole new thread....
External paint usually just needs a good rub down to remove the accumulated dribbles of years. I've had good results with a power sander, but if dust is a problem then coarse wet & dry paper used wet can be helpful, especially for feathering in around flaked / stripped areas.
After all that stripping just make sure you use a good paint system. Now that's a whole new thread....
How about old doors? I was thinking of getting them dipped but I'm now thinking twice about this from the comments above. I guess looking into getting some stripper would be a better idea. I have a couple of hot air guns but I've not used them to actually remove paint before and lead is a worry in the fumes.
Nemesis
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The long way is the best way.
Don't dip.
Don't dip.
Gervase
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- North London
Dipping always seems to knacker the piece that's dipped - I know there are places that claim to be able to dip and strip without shrinkage or other ill effects, but you can always tell immediately when something has spent time in the caustic bath - the wood looks impoverished, the joints are anorexic and there's an unhealthy grey tint to the grain. And, nine times out of ten, the thing is falling apart.
Dipping is one short-cut that really shouldn't be taken.
Dipping is one short-cut that really shouldn't be taken.
Thats one big mistake ive already made thinking i was saving ttime,luckily we only had 2 doors dipped but it completely ruined them they are now in our hallway as i dont want to get rid of them they have cracked and shrunk they look awful!
a lesson learned :lol:
Andrew you say a good paint system what do you mean by this ?
I was going to knot
primex2 (water and oil)
2xundercoat
2xeggshell finish (only as i dont like gloss)
and make good ,and rub down and tac between coats
a lesson learned :lol:
Andrew you say a good paint system what do you mean by this ?
I was going to knot
primex2 (water and oil)
2xundercoat
2xeggshell finish (only as i dont like gloss)
and make good ,and rub down and tac between coats
thiambal
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I have had a couple of doors stripped - they were particularly knackered examples of doors already and I was not that fussed about changing them if all went wrong. The results......
1) raised the grain
2) dried out the wood and led to some cracking
3) warped one of the panels.
4) gave the wood a nasty grey colour
5) strained the dowelled tenon joints causing cracked (non-dowelled joints would probably have been pulled apart.
It took hours of work getting them to a condition again where they could be painted and to be honest, they now look pretty good.
However, if in doubt, dip stripping is probably best avoided.
1) raised the grain
2) dried out the wood and led to some cracking
3) warped one of the panels.
4) gave the wood a nasty grey colour
5) strained the dowelled tenon joints causing cracked (non-dowelled joints would probably have been pulled apart.
It took hours of work getting them to a condition again where they could be painted and to be honest, they now look pretty good.
However, if in doubt, dip stripping is probably best avoided.
Andrew Bodenham said:I've found that a hot air gun is much the best way of getting the majority of the old paint off window frames. Beware of fumes and fire risk. Yes, it's easy to crack the glass if you're not careful - masking the area locally with a sheet of metal can prevent this. But for working right up to the glass I use that highly under-rated paint removal device viz: the scraper. This can be a purpose made tool with replaceable blades, but I prefer to use a cabinet scraper or a stripping knife. The key to success is to keep the edge sharp with a file used every few minutes.
External paint usually just needs a good rub down to remove the accumulated dribbles of years. I've had good results with a power sander, but if dust is a problem then coarse wet & dry paper used wet can be helpful, especially for feathering in around flaked / stripped areas.
After all that stripping just make sure you use a good paint system. Now that's a whole new thread....
i agree, just be careful with air gun around the glass
Andrew Bodenham
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Well, Sarah, if you posted a query for paint recommendations you'd get a deluge of differing advice - everybody has their own favourite brand or method of application.
The problem is that there's such a huge range of 'stuff in tins' that it's hard to know where to start. It's also really expensive to experiment, plus you can end up with lots of tins all with one brush-load used.
The conventional multi-coat approach you suggest is fine, and will give a great finish. But you might also consider the ultra-trad apporach - linseed oil based paints like Holkham which need fewer coats and are easy to apply but can take days to dry. Then there's modern high-tech systems like Sikkens water-borne microporous paints which claim long life; modern slightly more eco-friendly stuff like Osmo's opaque coatings; totally flat-earth organic stuff made from chalk, hemp etc. which are probably safe enough to spread on toast, and then conventional high-tech like Dulux Weathershield, which one of my pals has used in a renovation and, reluctantly, I have to say that it looks great.
Note that we've just scratched the surface here - there's loads more when you start looking, each with their own system of primers, undercoats, preservatives etc. And we haven't even thought about making your own!
I'm soon to paint a new window frame, and I'm tempted to go down the linseed oil based route. I used some on the church flagpole last year, which takes an absolute blasting from the weather, and so far it looks as good as the day it went on.
The problem is that there's such a huge range of 'stuff in tins' that it's hard to know where to start. It's also really expensive to experiment, plus you can end up with lots of tins all with one brush-load used.
The conventional multi-coat approach you suggest is fine, and will give a great finish. But you might also consider the ultra-trad apporach - linseed oil based paints like Holkham which need fewer coats and are easy to apply but can take days to dry. Then there's modern high-tech systems like Sikkens water-borne microporous paints which claim long life; modern slightly more eco-friendly stuff like Osmo's opaque coatings; totally flat-earth organic stuff made from chalk, hemp etc. which are probably safe enough to spread on toast, and then conventional high-tech like Dulux Weathershield, which one of my pals has used in a renovation and, reluctantly, I have to say that it looks great.
Note that we've just scratched the surface here - there's loads more when you start looking, each with their own system of primers, undercoats, preservatives etc. And we haven't even thought about making your own!
I'm soon to paint a new window frame, and I'm tempted to go down the linseed oil based route. I used some on the church flagpole last year, which takes an absolute blasting from the weather, and so far it looks as good as the day it went on.
Gervase
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Being a crusty old curmudgeon with tweed underwear, it's no surprise that I'm a fan of linseed oil paints. But, in a futile attempt to get 'with it' I have used Weathershield, but found that it cracked quite badly after a couple of years, and the cracks let the wood underneath get sodden and start to rot.
Maybe I should just listen to more popular beat combos and embrace the synthetic.
Maybe I should just listen to more popular beat combos and embrace the synthetic.
Nemesis
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Tweed underwear (and a beard...).
Be still my beating heart. Ohhhhhh......
(Sorry - this may be deemed frivolity, and I know frowned upon by the new PPUK Forum Family Friendly PLC...)
Be still my beating heart. Ohhhhhh......
(Sorry - this may be deemed frivolity, and I know frowned upon by the new PPUK Forum Family Friendly PLC...)
biffvernon
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I'm a great fan of the linseed paint from Holkham. I've noticed it's best to use their (rather expensive) raw linseed oil first (like they recommend). It dries quicker.
Antwerpman
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I have been refurbishing the wooden windows on my turn of the century property here in Belgium and I used Holkam paints for the first time. I have to say I am an absolute convert and lvoe the stuff now. It seems expensive but it goes a LONG way as you only brush it on thinly.
However I did do a gate in a hurry and didnt use the heated raw linseed oil first and it needed a lot of coats to stop it going patchy, but on the old dry windows where I have used the raw linseed oil I have found 3 coats to be enough. Also the raw linseed oil may seem expensive that that also goes a long way too.
It does take a long time to dry but you just stick your brush in a jar of linseed oil in between coats so no need to worry about washing brushes etc.
I tried the Duluw weathersheild in a previous house and followed the instructions to the letter, however I found the stuff started to crack after 2 years on a south facing window - did look fantastic when new though
However I did do a gate in a hurry and didnt use the heated raw linseed oil first and it needed a lot of coats to stop it going patchy, but on the old dry windows where I have used the raw linseed oil I have found 3 coats to be enough. Also the raw linseed oil may seem expensive that that also goes a long way too.
It does take a long time to dry but you just stick your brush in a jar of linseed oil in between coats so no need to worry about washing brushes etc.
I tried the Duluw weathersheild in a previous house and followed the instructions to the letter, however I found the stuff started to crack after 2 years on a south facing window - did look fantastic when new though
biffvernon
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Many paints cover about 12 square metres to the litre. This stuff does about 24.Antwerpman said:It seems expensive but it goes a LONG way as you only brush it on thinly.
Oh yes, just think about never having to clean a paint brush again. Of course if you did want to clean it you only need soap and water.Antwerpman said:you just stick your brush in a jar of linseed oil in between coats so no need to worry about washing brushes etc.
Nemesis
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Mmmm. I have a husband who never cleans paint brushes full stop.
He's very good at intending to, but...
He's very good at intending to, but...
I've found that Klingstrip is good for getting paint off, espesially mouldings. It's a poultice stripper so it goes on thickly with a pallet knife, cover it with cling film and leave then peel off a day or so later depending upon the thinkness of paint. It doesn't burn, smell or make a mess like Nitromors and I love it. You will need to make sure that the chemicals of the stripper are neutralised using their neutraliser, other wise you will get salts rising to the surface but I still find it the easiest way of stripping paint.
As for paint, I too am a convert to linseed oil paints, it's a faff when you first do it but 2 years down the line from the first window I did it still looks perfect and the maintenance on linseed paints is so much better than modern - linseed every time for me, for exterior anyway.
As for paint, I too am a convert to linseed oil paints, it's a faff when you first do it but 2 years down the line from the first window I did it still looks perfect and the maintenance on linseed paints is so much better than modern - linseed every time for me, for exterior anyway.