Old Sash windows (PVC)

[Jblakes]

Morning all,

Only the next part of draft proofing our house. So we have old sash window that are pvc, (will be replaced, but not before xmas), we get alot of condensation on them, and they are drafty (which to me makes no sense, i would have thought the draft to remove the moisture, maybe not).

Anyways what it the best way to draft proof these, needs to be easy fix, don't won't to be spend ages when we are replacing next year. it seems
1) we had gaps between wall and window, so i filled with caulk stuff and we are now seeing mould appear, so it will need scrapping off, anybody suggest what to use to fix draft but not cause mould (assume it holds water)
2) the glass it pretty naff as single glazing (yes i know, pvc and single glazing doesn't make sense), anythink i can stick over it, without it looking stupid.
3) window seals seem to be knackered too, is it ok to just use the sticking tape stuff. I can't see an issue with this.

Also what's the best way to draft proof a external door. It's wood ad you can feel the cold coming in.

I can probably google to find out (ish) but as it a old limestone property, i don't want to do a temp fix to find issues later on, like using the caulk around window/walls already cocked up.

kind regards
James

 

[Cubist]

As you are planning to replace the window-frame next year the simplest. cheapest and perhaps most effective short term solution would be to use gaffer/elephant tape to span the gap between the plastic frame and the walls. It can be painted to hide its unsightly appearance and easily removed when you come to fit the new window.

Regarding the door. The very best solution requires getting a tight, close fit between the door and its closure points in its frame using plastic or rubberised seals. These are not easy to fit and may require some surgery to the door and the frame. An easier but again short term solution may be to use the kind of tubular rubber gasket available from most DIY outlets stapled/pinned to the door where it meets the frame. See below.

Stormguard EPDM Weatherstrip P Profile Black 15m | Toolstation

This weatherstrip from Stormguard is ideal for sealing around doors and windows to keep out draughts and conserve heat, energy and money. It also forms an effective barrier against rain and dust. The weatherstrip is made from ethylene propylene diene monomer (EPDM) rubber, which offers excellent...

www.toolstation.com

 

[mardinor]

If you're going to rip it out next year then I'd use the cheap window film that you tape on then stretch tight like a drum using a hairdryer. Costs pennies. Caulk can also be removed with the window, so bathroom silicone is fine over winter. Assume you already have a thermal lined, floor-length curtain?
For the door, standard draught-proofing strips that you stick on work well (though nailed-on copper V-strips are the best long-term solution). Find the draughts - you might need a brush seal for the bottom and for any letterbox, and don't forget escutcheons for keyholes. Even better is to add a thermal-lined door curtain on portiere rod.
Overall, no need for traditional materials as all reversible, but you do need traditional techniques. Everything above was standard 30 years ago.

 

[Jblakes]

thank you for your replies, yes the plan is to replace the windows, either next year, or one after (have alot to do, and not sorted the priorities out yet)

Yes we have thermal lined curtains in all bedrooms and both doors, but obviously stopping the air leaks will improve the temperature in the house. I will look into what you have suggested. Does the window film only work on the glass? and will the gaffer tape/ bathroom silicone cause mould issue, like the caulk?

kind regards
James

 

[88v8]

Door... expanding foam seal by Compriband.
Will take up uneven or tapered gaps, unlike rubber seals which need a fairly consistent gap.

Measure the gaps and buy the seal to suit. You may need more than one size.
Don't buy too big or it will bulge out and you'll never get the door shut.

On the hinge side, put the seal between the side of the frame and the edge of the door so it compresses as the door shuts.
On the top and lock side put the seal on the stop moulding so the door shuts against it.

This is the size I've found most useful, but your gaps may differ.
Great stuff for old houses.

Window film... this sort of thing, probably in your local hardware shop. The visuals are not too bad, but you could always put up net curtains to conceal it.

The mould is due to cold-bridging, especially if whatever you caulked it with absorbs moisture. You will need to seal up the gaps outside as well as inside. The paintable caulk is OK, and easily removable. Again, your hardware shop or builders merchant will have a variety.

Ivor

 

[Jblakes]

OK so I have taken off all the wet sealent around the window (this is a new extension and has normal window in) and as you can see from the picture (I hope) there is an air gap between the wall and plasterboard. I can fit my finger in behind the plasterboard, the other imagine is what was in before (it was wet).

I'm guessing there is a gap alway round the window. What is the best way to seal it, so to not cause mould/damp and stop the draft/insulate it

Kind regard
James

 

[Jblakes]

And I forgot to ask, what best to seal windows from the outside. I was thinking CT1 should be, bearing in mind it's - 6 now and so ain't going out for long

 

[Jblakes]

Bump please

 

[Cubist]

Could you tell us please what the house is constructed from? You mention lime-stone but there appears to be some significant timbers too.

 

[Jblakes]

Stone all limestone, where are you seeing timber from them pictures? The original part is two cottages knocked together circa 1720 and this bit above is an extension around 20 years ago, still limestone but got what looks like plasterboard on the walls.

Regards
James

 

[Cubist]

In the second of your photos there is what appears, to my eyes, what looks like a desiccated timber in the wall. Looks like looks are more decieving.

 

[Jblakes]

No it's definitely part of the lime stone wall.