Obtaining Matching Spindles For Banister

[SteveHello1234]

Anyone got any ideas on how to source replacement spindles for our banisters? There are a few missing so we'dd like to get identical ones if possible. May have to get them made specially I guess ?

Thanks

Steve

 

[Andrew Bodenham]

Any chance of picture?

Without seeing them it's impossible to say if they are common stock items or something more exotic.
If they are of any antiquity you are unlikely to find a perfect match in new stock; trawling the wares of architectural salvage yards might work. Probably you'd be best approaching a joinery company or cabinetmaker (with one of the originals in hand) and seeing if you can get somebody interested.

 

[SteveHello1234]

Thanks Andrew. Few piccies are here (assuming I can get this img jobby working):

These are the end posts (Hewel posts are they called ?) - any tips on renovating and do they look original ?

This is the first staircase. A few spindles are missing. There are two types, with different base lengths (hard to explain). This is the main issue really - how to source replacements for the missing ones

This is the top of the 2nd staircase. It's hard to see but these aren't just plain cylinder spindles, they have ridges running down the length of them. Much less ornate than the lower staircase though

And this is where the top handrail is embedded into the wall. This bit is very wobbly (i.e. not attached to the wall very well) any repair tips gratefully received!

Any pointers on how original the banisters are, what kind of wood, how to refurbish them would be gratefully received, they look varnished to me so am guessing some sanding will be needed ?

Cheers

Steve

 

[Andrew Bodenham]

That's a fine looking staircase you have there - I like the detailing on the string beneath the treads. The handrails appear to have a profile very similar to those in my house. Can I ask where you are, geographically? Do you have a date for your house - I'd guess late Victorian but am happy to be corrected.

The brown finish is a sort of cover-all varnish which was commonly used on staircases of that period. I think it is shellac based, in which case you should be able to dissolve it off with meths. Our stairs are in a similar condition, and we have experimented with various techniques for removal. The brown varnish is very brittle, so on flat areas it can be removed quickly with a cabinet scraper or similar. Meths and Scotch pad will take care of the rest. It'll be a long, fiddly job - which is why we haven't got round to it yet!

The timber is pitch pine, and very nice it is too. It's hard to get hold of new pitch pine these days, but there is plenty available in the salvage market if you hunt around.

Those spindles are a job for a woodturner, so I'd start in the Yellow pages. A good turnery or joinery company might have copy lathe which would produce identical replacements. You might have to source some suitable pitchpine yourself, but it shouldn't be too hard to find it in sections of that size.

Try to avoid sanding as much as possible - it's tedious, dusty and hard to get a uniform finish. Non-woven abrasives (e.g. Scotch pad etc.) are more sympathetic to the surface and won't leave score marks.

That top handrail needs to be secured to the wall, though it looks as though it is plastered in. If you unplastered around it you could maybe use a large angle bracket to secure it, then plaster over the 'wall' leg of the bracket to hide it, if you see what I mean.

Good luck - looking forward to the 'after' pictures!

 

[SteveHello1234]

Thanks very much for the tips Andrew. We in Berkshire but we've not actually bought the house yet - but will be doing so v soon

I'm afraid the stairs are a fair way down the list of priorities but will post pictures when they are done (I'm estimating 2010 but don't tell the missus that !) - except replacing the spindles which will need to be done pretty soon !

 

[Penners]

I agree with everything that Andrew has said, including the guess at a date.

The reason for the different length stocks at the bottom end of the spindles is to accommodate the two-per-tread arrangement. The spindle nearer the toe of the tread needs to be shorter, due to the angle of the handrail.

However, you don't need to spend more on having two different profiles turned for this - just use one of the longer spindles as your pattern, and cut the stock shorter where required.

You may find that the fluted spindles on the landing are rather harder to get copied than the ones down the stairs.

Just one word of warning when you come to try and strip the varnish. I've often sung the praises of Klingstrip on this forum, but I would definitely avoid it for softwood components like these. I found that it tends to make the surface of softwood go soft and fibrous.

 

[pieman]

Try these:

http://www.dresser.uk.com

Good Luck.