Oak worktop - Linseed Oil or Beeswax?

[Tom]

I need to make a quick decision - like, overnight! I have a new Oak worktop and need to get some finish on it whilst its nice and flat and before it starts to get grubby. I have a choice - Linseed Oil or Beeswax. Which one would be best? It's not in the main kitchen but will have the dishwasher and washing machine below it, so may get lightly splashed with water or get damp clothes placed on it. Which finish do you think would be best? Thank you for any help.

 

[MdB]

The door on our bathroom has a couple of coats of boiled linseed on it and that seems to work ok in the obviously damp environment. I like the finish too.

I've not used beeswax so can't comment on that.

 

[Tom]

I've treated all the other wood in our house with Beeswax and I'm really happy with it but something is telling me this should be Oiled. I've done a sample to test it and the result is really good; darker than waxed but really highlighting the grain. It really brings out the medullary rays, which I love. How much drying time did you leave between the coats of oil? I believe if you put subsequent coats on too soon you end up with a sticky mess :shock:

 

[Flyfisher]

I don't know but, thinking out loud, would beeswax be easily marked if hot or warm objects are placed on the worktop?

I really like beeswax and have used Liberon on beams and other bits of oak, but I'd hesitate to use it on a worktop. Sorry if this just adds to the doubt.

 

[TomW]

I think any finish on a wooden worktop is going to be damaged by heat.
I use beeswax on my chopping board and find it does wear away quite quickly and doesn't seem to penetrate the wood, so maybe the oil would be better.
Just a thought, I have used osmo polyx hardwax oil on my floor. It's hard-wearing and natural oil and wax based, waterproof and safe enough to use on children's toys, so why not a worktop.

 

[Tom]

@ FlyFisher....I think you're right, oil is the way to go here. As nice as wax is, I don't think it's as hardwearing or as penetrative as oil.

@ TomW....Same as above. I think oil will give a more protective finish long term and help to stabilise the wood better.

Guess what I'm doing today?

 

[middi]

Regardless what you use to seal the worktop ( non poisonous !!!!) it all boils down to daily scrubbing and mild disinfectant. hence a natural worktop look as opposite to granite look.

(You may enjoy it, my wife refused to become a perpetual scrubber :wink: )

Middi
ps:
Very nice kitchen, really "cottagee" ,excellent. What puzzled me is the "grey blotched" window frame above that nice belfast sink , what is it?

 

[Penners]

Jaqy - I'm also on the oil side of the fence. But I would tend towards Danish oil, rather than just linseed. It dries better and gives less risk of stickiness.

Here are some notes produced by a wood worktop manufacturer. They seem pretty good, and may be of general help to you:

http://www.hardwoodfloorstore.co.uk/worktops/worktop_care.htm

 

[Tom]

@ Middi....Yes, I definitely want a softer sheen on the Oak rather than a glaring shine, which is another reason I'm going for oil. Not sure about the scrubbing, though. However, it does always look rather enjoyable when Ruth does it on The Edwardian Farm, so I might just give it a try Thank you for your comments on my kitchen. It's good that people like what I'm doing The window is one of two newer ones we had put in, as a temporary measure. The blotchiness is the tape still on the frame Eventually, all the windows will be replaced with Oak ones.

@ Penners....Thanks for your advice. I'm definitely going with oil now. I don't have any Danish oil in at the moment and have to get on with this today, to eliminate any chance of movement. Even though this is made of quarter sawn, I don't want to risk any change in its stability especially now it's been brought into a warm, dryish house from a much cooler, damper workshop. It's so beautiful I just want to keep it exactly as it is. I'll post some more pics later.

 

[skier-hughes]

I know you are probably oiling now, so good I've oiled. I've put 4 coats on my worktop and it's looking great, gets just a little darker each time. I've just rubbed over with a soft cloth to remove any that had been sitting slightly, as the last coat I put on was very generous and left it like a lake of oil!! But we were away for 3 days so it gave it a fair bit of time to penetrate nicely, whch it did.
I can't say I noticce much greasyness or stickyness, you cna still feel it slightly on the worktop as it's only just been done, but the doors and other woodwork which has been done a while are perfectly dry.

 

[biffvernon]

Linseed oil first, then beeswax.

Actually, for a kitchen worktop I'd use le Tonkinois varnish. Bombproof. I used it for the shop counter in my daughters deli two years ago and it looks as good as new despite serious use.

 

[biffvernon]

the last coat I put on was very generous and left it like a lake of oil!!... still feel it slightly

Not surprising! Always put oil on as thin a possible

 

[skier-hughes]

Normally I do, but being away for three days it had plenty of time to soak in, which it did, otherwise on my return I'd have had to recoat again another few times to get the same amount of oil on and that would have delayed our use and more earache for me

 

[Andrew Bodenham]

DWB,

I can highly recommend Osmo Top Oil, which is specifically formulated for wooden worktops. Very easy to apply, dries relatively quickly, easy to recoat, has proved to be exceptionally durable, even around sink and cooker where it gets a hammering. Also very easy to recoat if local repairs are required. I wouldn't use anything else now that I've discovered this.

I've tried lots of different finishes over the years, but the Osmo range really is impressive - I use their products on all my furniture commissions.

 

[Tom]

Well, I went down the Linseed Oil route and I'm really pleased. I think it looks stunning. In fact, it's made me want to get on with the Oak floor upstairs now. What have I started?! :roll:

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