Oak Beam Waxing

[Anonymous]

Some advice please. We have oak beams which are untreated but original (300 yrs old). Much of the surface is crumbly and powdery due to (dead) worm. We want to treat the surface with a wax but the surface looks too porous to get a decent finish (brushing wax won't penetrate enough). Any suggestions on a suitable very liquid (spray) finish (no stain though), please, or should they be wire-brushed back to solid wood. Looks like a big task. Thanks

 

[Anonymous]

I guess some will decree that if they've never been waxed then leave them alone, but if you have decided on wax - and you've obviously experimented, then fair do's.
My experience with the sort of crumbly worm eaten surface you describe is to stiff brush it back to something firm - you may well find that the crumbly layer is not at all deep - try a thin probe to find out.
If it IS very deep than you may have a structural problem - and better you know about it and deal with it.
When you get down to something which will take wax then try brushing on melted wax which will solidify and bind the once loose material. I use Mylands wax - less of a vapour hazard than some others. Heat the tin in hot water and the wax melts - then brush it on. Once set it will buff up nicely, even on a once crumbly surface.

 

[Anonymous]

I should have mentioned that when you first apply the liquid wax it may not get into all the crumbly cracks and crevices as more crumbling occurs. Fear not. The wax spreads slightly as it seeps in. Subsequent coats of wax will then fill in the gaps.

 

[Anonymous]

I have treated beams for myself and neighbours that were totally ragged and holed. I don't think yours could be worse.

I used Liberon Liquid Wax (it does stink for a few days though). Warm the wax, by keeping the tin in warm water and dispensing into a jar or lid (those oblong plastic lid/containers they put on paint stripper tins are excellent) that you can hold in the palm of your hand to keep it warm as you work. Then get an old 1" paint brush and cut the bristles down to about 1" long so it no longer sweeps the surface but is stubby. Then use it to brush and stipple the wax into all the groves.

I left the first coat for about 36 hours and brushed it vigorously (good exercise) with a lovely bristle brush I got from the Period House Shop. Like a slightly bigger shoe brush with a handle you can slip your fingers into.

I applied a second coat and repeated. Since then I've given the beams a brush from time to time with the bristle brush to remove dust, and in 1.5 years I've applied a light coat of ordinary Black Bison wax just the once.

I think you would be fine with this liquid wax, but you must ventilate and try to keep away from the fumes when not working. It also consolidates the wood well. But you must brush off the loose first. I wouldn't use a wire brush, but a stiff bristle brush will do the job with less damage.

Sue

 

[Anonymous]

I had the same problem on exposed roof purlins and brushed it back to as firm as possible before waxing.
The main problem with mine was that they had been fumed (to darken them) in the past which had also faded in parts and the resulting colour differences with the large areas of brushed bits was pretty horrible - very manky. As they had been dark in the past, I applied a dark oak wax and got a pretty good more uniform colour which looks ok.
I found the liquid wax was extremely messy (it seems to drip all over the place, especially on you!) and was a real pain to get to adhere to the brushed bits - the inevitable remaining wood dust seemed to repel it. Put plastic sheet over the floor and everything else (including yourself if possible) - I wouldn't use it above shoulder height. I ended up using the ordinary Liberon wax applied liberally with a cloth, gently pressed in and wiped off before a very light (to avoid glossy finish) buffing.
I needed at least two applications.

 

[Anonymous]

What on earth were you doing with the stuff? I don't think I've ever made a single drip with it and I've used it a lot, mostly above my head. You need to go at it slowly though, no bulls in china shops on this one. Less is definately more.

I only put a dust sheet down the catch the dust when I'm brushing it back off.

Sorry to sound smug, but how do you mange with ordinary paint? <IMG SRC="http://www.periodproperty.co.uk/discussing/smileys/wink.gif" BORDER=0 ALT="">

Sue

 

[Anonymous]

I have a 400 year old farmhouse with more exposed oak beams than I can count . Most of these have, at some time in its history, been painted with either a white coloured paint or wash or some more robust coloured product which I suspect, given its age, may be lead based.
I would dearly like to return them to some semblance of natural timber before further treatment . I have tried mechanical / hand brushing but this is only partly effective ( and exhausting ! ! ) Has anyone tried sandblasting ? I'm quite prepared to work in totally bare rooms if that's what it takes . . .

 

[Anonymous]

I don't know - it was the ordinary Liberon Liquid Wax in a dark oak colour and it dribbled down the brush stock onto me and everything else! It made a mess that way every time I tried to use it above shoulder height. Maybe temperature matters or something, but it was not anything daft I was doing.

 

[Anonymous]

Sandblasting is not a good idea really! You could end up with some very, very ragged pieces of wood left. Also your paint may be historic - bare wood isn't always what would have been there in the past. It's just what is fashionable at the moment.

 

[Anonymous]

We have had some beams ‘klingstripped’ and some ‘sandblasted’ (in the past).
I would be glad to tell about the different results but I am afraid of the reaction.

Jez

 

[Anonymous]

We have had posts on both of these in the past. The success of either method seems to vary from building to building. Sandblasting I wouldn't recommend for anything much except rusty metal though - in general, far too harsh for historic buildings.

 

[Anonymous]

I would agree to a point.
But with a sympathetic operative who knows what they are doing, they results can be good.
PS Evelyn
Have SPAB recovered from their thrashing on University Challenge

 

[martaheine]

I believe when it comes to proper waxing or oak finishing, we often aim (since we purposely want) to have a really natural-looking result in our oak beams or oak plank. Why not try Lindseed oil since they can be a good choice for old oak beams and let's not forget alotting our attention with termite treatment as well. Afterwards, you can also use Danish oil or perhaps matt varnish for a little of a gloss varnish look. But still it is advisable to ask for an expert's assistance. Hope this helps.

 

[Andys]

I suppose it would be nice to know how the original query worked out, it should have settled down after twelve years!

 

[tobydog]

I was reading the previous posts thinking "Who on earth are these people?" I then realised, as Andys response pointed out, they were from 12 years ago. A bit like Friends Reunited.

We have dark (oiled / stained?) beams and we've given up on the idea of trying to lighten them. We do, however, have one part that develops numerous tiny flecks of what looks like mould in the ceiling beams. It's in a corner where the wall can get very cold and used to develop condensation. We've tried sorting it by stripping the modern paint and using clay paint so hopefully the problem will subside. The house never smells or feels damp anywhere so could it just be the treatment nurturing old mould spores? I can wipe the beams down but not get into the various nooks and crannies so it always comes back. Can linseed oil feed mould? If not, what could the previous owners have used? We believe they were treated in the mid 90's. More curious than worried.

 

[Me!]

Can linseed oil feed mould?

Yes it can. I've got some north facing windows that I painted with linseed oil paint, and they have always suffered with mould and mildew since then.

 

[tobydog]

Thanks. I've been casually wiping / vacuuming it off for the last 8 years so I'm sure I can continue.

 

[masochists-r-us]

I applied a couple of coats of Osmo Hardwax Oil in satin finish to one badly wormed elm spine beam in my kitchen as it's above a food prep island and it worked a treat. It does slightly darken the wood, but not much and it still looks very natural without shedding dust all over my food.

 

[88v8]

Can linseed oil feed mould?

Yes.

Our untreated beams also have mould is some places, but then the house is very damp.
For this and other unsolvable problems, Nelson had the right idea.

Extensive thread on beam waxing here.
http://www.periodproperty.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=15357&sid=2516bdc97700c75179a4f0ab4b8ee4cd

Ivor