Fizzer
Member
- Messages
- 56
- Location
- Oxfordshire
Hi All, sorry for posting yet another damp problem, I've been reading this forum for some time as we (my wife and I) are buying an old detached cottage which has some rising damp and penetrating damp.
The details are:
the house has been poorly ventilated/heated over winter as it's been vacant
we intend to install gas central heating
the floors at the front of the house at least have a screed + bitumin like layer + chipboard (rotten near the walls)
The back of the house has a tiled floor (kitchen) and rear wall (bathroom)
The west wall of the house has a sloping driveway touching it (ground level at the front 4' deep at the back) the inside face of this wall appears to have been tanked.
The back wall also 4' underground and is approx 1' 6" thick (the garden slopes up from the back wall)
The problem is:
All of the old downstairs walls (including internal) have patches of popped plaster and rising damp
the floor at the front west corner of the house is v v damp (+mould all ov er the wall here)
under the kitchen cabinets against the back wall it's v damp.
My theory is:
the concrete floor has reduced moisture dissipation and is forcing water up the walls
the tanked west wall is forcing water into the adjacent south wall and floor (tanking not linked to bitumin layer??)
the earth at the back wall is forcing too much moisture into the back wall
a 4-5' deep french drain at the back of the house is too deep and may undermine shallow footings
We've had the obligatory free damp surveys and, you guessed it, got the 'inject chemicals everywhere, tank the back wall, install a dpm on the floor of the south west room' quotes.
My questions are:
After reading lots of info here, tanking and chemical dpc's aren't ideal, but if we don't do that, and it doesn't dry out on its own, what do we do?
Is it feasable to dig down and install a vertical dpm against the back wall to stop water coming in, or will this lead to a dangerous buildup of moisture underground?
TIA
Andy
The details are:
the house has been poorly ventilated/heated over winter as it's been vacant
we intend to install gas central heating
the floors at the front of the house at least have a screed + bitumin like layer + chipboard (rotten near the walls)
The back of the house has a tiled floor (kitchen) and rear wall (bathroom)
The west wall of the house has a sloping driveway touching it (ground level at the front 4' deep at the back) the inside face of this wall appears to have been tanked.
The back wall also 4' underground and is approx 1' 6" thick (the garden slopes up from the back wall)
The problem is:
All of the old downstairs walls (including internal) have patches of popped plaster and rising damp
the floor at the front west corner of the house is v v damp (+mould all ov er the wall here)
under the kitchen cabinets against the back wall it's v damp.
My theory is:
the concrete floor has reduced moisture dissipation and is forcing water up the walls
the tanked west wall is forcing water into the adjacent south wall and floor (tanking not linked to bitumin layer??)
the earth at the back wall is forcing too much moisture into the back wall
a 4-5' deep french drain at the back of the house is too deep and may undermine shallow footings
We've had the obligatory free damp surveys and, you guessed it, got the 'inject chemicals everywhere, tank the back wall, install a dpm on the floor of the south west room' quotes.
My questions are:
After reading lots of info here, tanking and chemical dpc's aren't ideal, but if we don't do that, and it doesn't dry out on its own, what do we do?
Is it feasable to dig down and install a vertical dpm against the back wall to stop water coming in, or will this lead to a dangerous buildup of moisture underground?
TIA
Andy