The usual minimum pitch for 'plain' tiles is 22.5º. You could go lower but tiled roofs start to look a bit unnatural if you go too low . A pitch below 15º is regarded as a flat roof by building control which would mean much more sustantial joists.
We have a tiled roof that has a pitch of about 8-10degrees.... fine as long as the wind doesnt blow that way... but when it does it leaks like a bggr...
It is used to provide a permanent membrane underneath the tiles. Tiles too shallow will let water in when the wind blows the wrong way, the cement lining conducts this water down and off the building.
It used to be asbestos cement sheet, now a non-asbestos equivalent will be used. The material is simply thin sheets of cement mortar with reinforcing fibres in, as used for coal bunkers, garages etc.
You can make your own if you want, using a flat sheet with wood trim for a mould, and 1:1 cement: sand mix with 5% glass fibre or 1% polypropylene or nylon fibre. There are other fibres that can be used too.
One way to look at it is the cement sheet is the functional roof, with the tiles acting as decoration and doing the roof function much of the time, but not all.
I wouldnt use flat roofing type materials instead, as they dont last so well. If putting tiles up it makes more sense to use materials that will last the life of the tiled roof.
NT
Reading the various posts, and yours in particular, I visualised the fibre-cement board you suggest as flat. I've done a google on such products, and what comes up seems to be 'corrugated' sheeting. Is that what you meant, or is it possible to get flat boards?
Or is it a case of the tiles coping with 95% of the water and the cement board dealing with 95% of the 5% that might get blown under the tiles... and the 1% that gets blown under AND the tiny bit that makes it under the tiles and finds its way to a fixing hole is not enough to worry about?
Do you still use battens with this? Dont they prevent the flow of water down the cement board?
We have a roof with a very shallow pitch that I had intended to do in copper but that seems like it is going to be too pricy so I am wondering if I can get away with well overlapped felt...
Do tell us, George, why you were considering using copper. If it's a low pitch I guess the beauty of the green patina will be lost to the birds. So why not something cheaper like alluminium recycled from a late caravan.
I want to do the bay windows and porch in copper so I thought an out of the way dormer a good place to "practice".
However practicing with aluminium may be a good compromise since it will be fairly similar. Just wasnt sure about the suitability of aluminium with a slightly higher coefficient of thermal expansion and no fatigue limit... dont want the roof cracking in 10 years due to thermal fatigue...
Now we reach the 'what do you want to do here mate' phase. One option is to put a blob of silicone on each hole before fixing, another as you suggest is to use nothing, etc etc
I've not come across ali roofing before, is this something done and known to work? I suppose it would.