Lubricating Windows (Linseed Paint)

[malcolm]

I painted my new sash windows with linseed oil paint a couple of years ago. While I maintain it is a brilliant paint that will make them easy to maintain in the future they can be a bit sticky if I actually try to open them.

Is there an age old preference for lubricant? Rubbing candle wax on them or maybe chalk? They are new sash windows and have the little cloth seals cut into them.

 

[Feltwell]

Silicone spray! Not even a tiny bit period but it works and it's exceptionally clean. Works a treat on any kind of sliding surface. Spray some up & down your seals. I've used it quite a few times - but only after about a month has passed since painting, just to make sure it doesn't react with the paint. Brilliant stuff.

 

[Zebra]

What colour did you paint your windows malcolm? No relevance at all to your question, about which I have no idea, but I did mine in white linseed oil paint, and in the direct sunlight I'm finding it does not last, I'm having to touch up the sills every year.

 

[plasticpigeon]

Silicone spray! Not even a tiny bit period but it works and it's exceptionally clean. Works a treat on any kind of sliding surface. Spray some up & down your seals. I've used it quite a few times - but only after about a month has passed since painting, just to make sure it doesn't react with the paint. Brilliant stuff.

The only problem is that it will be incredibly hard to paint them again if they are lubed with silicone spray.

 

[Feltwell]

I've not found that to be the case. It does gradually weather off, but I give the relevant part of the window a quick wipe with electrical contact cleaner on a paper towel before painting just to make sure, and I've not had any problems. Thinking about it though, with the silicone spray I have usually sprayed it on to a cloth then wiped it on to the seals, rather than spraying it indiscriminately.

On Zebra's point, that's pretty much why I gave up on linseed paint - it was lots of hassle to use due to the drying time, but horizontal surfaces, cills in particular, I found were stained within 2-3 years and would not clean up again without repainting. This was a buttermilk yellow/beige colour.

 

[wobs]

I use the LinseedPaintCompany stuff, which is different to normal linseed paint. I just use use candle wax, but still sticks a bit. May try the silicon spray.

The first window I did with this paint was in 2013, and still looking good.

 

[malcolm]

I hadn't thought about overpainting, though I've always avoided silicone since some fish eye problems in a car paint job. I suppose candle wax wouldn't be easy to overpaint either. Will have to experiment to see what comes off with brake cleaner.

My sash windows are white. They tend to go a bit matt so dust sticks to them but I haven't noticed any other issues. Though they only went in 2 years ago no not long enough to judge.

 

[a twig]

Silicone spray is brilliant

 

[Zebra]

I use the LinseedPaintCompany stuff, which is different to normal linseed paint. I just use use candle wax, but still sticks a bit. May try the silicon spray.

The first window I did with this paint was in 2013, and still looking good.

Really, that's interesting, and worth knowing. So theirs is different to Holkhams? I must admit I am considering giving up on linseed oil paint on my windows but theirs might be worth a try.

 

[wobs]

I use the LinseedPaintCompany stuff, which is different to normal linseed paint. I just use use candle wax, but still sticks a bit. May try the silicon spray.

The first window I did with this paint was in 2013, and still looking good.

Really, that's interesting, and worth knowing. So theirs is different to Holkhams? I must admit I am considering giving up on linseed oil paint on my windows but theirs might be worth a try.

I think he adds a pine resin to it or something, which makes it a bit more glossy, and helps the drying time. Also, you don't seem to get a skin when you do it too thick. This summer, I did two sashes windows, and a large casement window, and had about a two day gap between coats. It was about dry the next day, but a little bit sticky, but it didn't leave paint on my finger when I tried it the morning after.

As I did so much, it wasn't really an issue, as it was physically impossible to do a another coat the next day. I had so many other bits to paint as well.

Sanded with 320 grit sandpaper. It don't come off in a dust, as it remains soft, but comes off in little clumps. Not usually an issue, but shows how flexible it is.

I did it in green, which was fairly light, which took four coats. I have done white in the past, and it took five coats, but the chap recommended adding white wash to white paint to reduce the number of coats necessary. I couldn't find any to do this.

 

[Zebra]

Four coats? Five coats??!! Blimey. Only did two.
Do you mean whitewash, as in limewash, to add to linseed oil paint? Never heard of that, that's interesting. Who was it recommended that to you?

 

[wobs]

Four coats? Five coats??!! Blimey. Only did two.
Do you mean whitewash, as in limewash, to add to linseed oil paint? Never heard of that, that's interesting. Who was it recommended that to you?

Mr LPC. Not sure what type of white wash. Not an expert on such things.