Looking to tile over this hearth.

[Abi Cott]

As part of my bathroom refit I'm planning on tiling the area in front of this hearth. What sort of issues do I need to consider.

To protect the existing tiles


Concerning levels and the possibility of lighting this fire in the future.

 

[Abi Cott]

I managed to get the closure plate open. There were 3 lumps of stone in there whose origin will need investigating and a rather pretty flue.

 

[plasticpigeon]

If preserving the original tiles is important, and you would like a waterproof floor, perhaps you could consider a vinyl covering over the wooden floor and leaving the tiles in situ. If your house is anything like mine (I know yours is older, but construction may be similar) there will be a very shonky trimmer arch under the tiles, sprung off a floor joist with assorted rubble above, finished off with a thin layer of lime or cement to bed the tiles in. It would never pass regs for a fireplace, but if you are not altering it maybe there is no problem. Here is our bathroom when nearly finished. The vinyl is a quick cheap way to a warmer waterproof floor and it doesn't look too bad.

 

[Abi Cott]

I'm definitely leaving the tiles in situ. I haven't got a clue how old they are but destroying them is definitely not on the cards. I'm planning to tile the bathroom floor rather than use vinyl, partly because by tiling this area it would give me the option of lighting the fire on occasion. It won't be in regular use. It's in the top floor landing :?:

I'm thinking the tiler will want to put ply down and these tiles are flush with the floorboards in some areas, raised by about 3mm in others.

The regulators can naff off. I'm not planning on asking their permission.

Several friends are recommending leaving them exposed but that introduces another range of questions about how to manage the resulting step.

I'm going to use wood effect tiles in dark oak. I plan to use solid wood flooring in a similar tone in the adjacent bedrooms.

 

[Flyfisher]

I'm thinking you may also want to protect those floorboards as well as the hearth tiles, in which case perhaps covering the whole area with plywood first might do the trick. It would provide the desired protection as well as a more uniform and stable surface for tiling. If the existing floor is rock solid then you might get away with 6mm ply, otherwise 12 or even 18mm would provide more solidity.

 

[Abi Cott]

I'm thinking you may also want to protect those floorboards as well as the hearth tiles, in which case perhaps covering the whole area with plywood first might do the trick. It would provide the desired protection as well as a more uniform and stable surface for tiling. If the existing floor is rock solid then you might get away with 6mm ply, otherwise 12 or even 18mm would provide more solidity.

I think 12mm is the minimum usually recommended. What concerns me with that is that the ply edge could be exposed at the join with the fireplace. Which could be iffy from a fire retardant point of view.

With a 6-8mm tile and ply to prevent them cracking I'm looking at adding 20mm minimum to the floor level and I'm not sure how to handle the transition. I might never light the fire. At most it might become a Christmas tradition. It's in too weird a place for regular use I think.

At least 4 of the tiles are damaged with some pieces missing to the right of the hearth. The colour works for my intended scheme but I could spend days restoring them for no good reason if they can't be worked into the finished floor.

 

[Flyfisher]

As you're not worried about regs, does the exposed edge of the ply really matter - especially as you plan to use wood tiles?

But if you do want to protect the edge, what about some angle or perhaps U-channel aluminium to cover the exposed edge?

 

[Abi Cott]

Porcelain wood effect tiles

http://www.tilegiant.co.uk/sequoia-wenge-140x840.html

 

[Kearn]

With ply as a base for tiling, it really needs securing to the underlying surface to stop flexing and to avoid resulting cracks in grout / movement in the roles which can then let water through.
I've taken up tiles from two bathrooms now - the first job's timing was accelerated as the ply wasn't secured when the PO's cowboy builder did the work and water had been slowly getting through under the tiles until the point the floor was sodden and tiles were squelching and rising! The good part of this once the room was dry and no lasting water damage had occurred, was that there were no unsightly screw holes in the boards underneath where the ply had been attached.
In the second bathroom, the ply had been screwed rather haphazardly into the boards below every 10cm or so but not in a logical pattern! meaning I had to slowly search out every screw head, dig it out with a chisel and then clean the head and unscrew if I was lucky, many needed slow twisting removal with pliers as the heads were shot - I stopped counting, but this was over 200! At least this slow effort meant minimised damage to the boards as opposed to some who may force the ply from the boards, pulling screws out. Some had still left noticeable holes which required filling before final finishing.
I guess what I'm really saying, is that by providing a stable and rigid ply surface to adequately tile on, you're proabbaly going to have to do a minimised amount of damage to the floorboards... I'm sure there may be a less damaging alternative thy someone has discovered? But if you go this route, I'd say use minimal screws and once covered but pre-tiling, mark their location for future easier removal!

 

[Abi Cott]

I'm not sure anyone would choose to expose the boards in this house. They have been so badly abused over the years that I don't think they are salvageable.

 

[paulc]

But if you go this route, I'd say use minimal screws and once covered but pre-tiling, mark their location for future easier removal!

A little square of sticky tape over each head would reduce the chance of them filling up with adhesive or grout. When the time comes to remove the boards, one wouldn't be spending time chiseling out the screw heads.

 

[Kearn]

But if you go this route, I'd say use minimal screws and once covered but pre-tiling, mark their location for future easier removal!

A little square of sticky tape over each head would reduce the chance of them filling up with adhesive or grout. When the time comes to remove the boards, one wouldn't be spending time chiseling out the screw heads.

Yep, forgot to add that too!!