Linseed Paint and windows

[Antwerpman]

I currently own a property in Belgium from around 1903 which I am in the process of updating.

I went through a process of trying to renovate the existing windows but to be honest the process was not very successful and the windows were not original items anyway so I decided to replace them with bespoke items made by a local company which carry out a lot of work on period properties.

Rather than going for tropical hardwood I have decided to go for oak. Now here in Belgium the trend of using authentic materials has not really caught on and most people would just use a modern (breathable) paint on the exterior of these windows and leave the insides natural. However the thought of having to (possibly) strip the paint every 5 years and repaint is not one I want to consider.

I asked the company making the windows if they would be ok left natural but they seemed to think that the weather would take its toll and that the grain would open up and eventually the wood would rot (they were talking about 20 years not the next couple). As I dont know where the oak was sourced I cant be sure how resilient they would be. They did tell me it was all French oak and I did see the sawn trees stacked outside so there has been some seasoning but I dont know how much. Is there really such a difference between the different types of oak in terms of its resiliance to the weather? How can I tell the quality of the wood?

So if it looks like leaving the windows au natral is not feasible (I am not sure it will suit the property either but was feeling lazy) I would like to look at linseed oil paint as the best option to use for painting. I have used this paint on some gates and on the windows that were refurbished and I think it seems to hold up to my expectations, but there are a couple of concerns I would appreciate advice on.

Firstly they will seal around the glazing with silicone to stop water ingress between the bead and the pane. I dont think asking for linseed putty to be used is an option as this will then throw up problems with the seals on the double glazed units. If they do use silicone what is the likely reaction going to be when I paint the windows with linseed oil paint as I heard the two are not compatible - does any one have any experience or advice on this?

Also when I used Linseed oil paint on my gates I found that using the shellack to paint over the knots then gave a patch of darker colour when I applied the paint and over time the paint in these areas has flaked off whereas the paint on the wood is still sound. Does anyone know why this would happen and how I could prevent it on my windows (although I am not really expecting any knots)

Thanks in advance for any advice

 

[biffvernon]

French oak is going to be fine (it's the American oak that is sometimes less durable). If left unpainted the surface does weather to a rather rough texture but it won't rot (think 200 rather than 20 years).
I use linseed oil made by Alback of Sweden. It's sold in the UK by Holkham Paints but I expect it is available in Belgium. The German firm Beeck also make a linseed paint. Or take a trip across the border to Delft and go to the Beestenmarkt and that wonderful little paint shop, run by Fa. W. Verbeek Jr., that seems to have hardly changed since Vermeer bought his pigment there.

Some people use silicone to bed double glazed units into wooden frames but I prefer to use double sided waterproof glazing tape and then, belt and braces fashion, add a bead of silicone to the exposed edge of the tape. I've not seen any adverse reaction between paint and silicone - though there's hardly any contact.

Shellac over knots is a softwood thing and does not apply to oak. With pines the knots sometimes have a lot of oils that can ooze out and spoil the paint if not sealed whith shellac.

 

[Penners]

Biff is the expert on oak windows, and how to treat them.

Like him, I think I would use simple linseed oil, rather than a linseed oil paint. You say that your preference would be to leave the wood looking natural, and simply oiled wood will certainly come much closer to this than painted wood. It also has the huge advantage of being very easily re-coatable - just wipe on another coat of oil.

But don't use cheap linseed oil. I think I remember Biff warning that it can contain impurities which can make it sticky and which support mould growth (is that right, Biff?) Use the best quality stuff.

 

[biffvernon]

Yes, I use the Swedish stuff from Albacks. I once bought some really strange linseed oil (if I got the translation right) in France. It was quite dark brown and very runny. I've no idea what is available in Belgium.

 

[Jill]

My sister lives in Belgium (Zonhoven, near Hassalt) and has recently had oak windows fitted to a property they are renovating so i'll ask her what they used, I do have a feeling they got something in England though.

 

[FamilyWiggs]

Holkham stuff is available on t'internet, so I guess they'll deliver to the Belgiums.

 

[Antwerpman]

Thanks to everyone for their replies.

I have a lot of Holkam Linseed oil which I bought a couple of years ago - does anyone know if there is a shelf life for this? I also previously used Holkam paints and if I do decide to go down the painted route I will use them again (I am english so when I go back to visit family I can arrange to collect some)

It is good to know that their will not be any adverse reaction between linseed oil/paint and the silicone beading as I am not sure I would get them to change that part easily.

Whilst part of me (the lazy part) would like to leave the windows natural, the house is a 'gentlemans' house rather than a cottage so I am not sure it will look right and it may be that I will need to paint it from an aesthetic point of view. If I do go that route I will use holkam paints and then at least I should not have to worry about stripping off the paint in the future

Thanks once again for all the advice

 

[biffvernon]

Shelf life? I've not noticed any difference with paint that is a couple of years old. It does need stirring very well as the solids settle out easily.

 

[Penners]

Shelf life?

I get round this problem by not putting the tin of paint on a shelf.