Linseed Oil Paint

[Anonymous]

I remember reading (on Biff's website I think) about the wonders of this for exterior woodwork and was wondering if it can also be successfully used indoors. My windowframes (wooden casements containing leaded lights - single glazed and a little drafty) are showing signs of wear (peeling paint and a little rot) and i've noticed a lot of condensation and little pools etc. since the weather got colder. Would it be appropriate to use a linseed oil paint on the isides as well?

Many Thanks

 

[Anonymous]

I think your best bet is to have a look at a couple of websites, both of which give lots of information about the use of linseed oil paint.
One is http://www.holkham.co.uk. The other is linked below.


http://www.realpaints.com/

 

[Anonymous]

Many thanks David - Holkham site very useful.

 

[Anonymous]

Is the Real Paint Company really shut down now?

 

[Anonymous]

Real Paint and Varnish was run by Peter Maitland-Hood, but, sad to say, he died earlier this year. They are not trading at present but there is an intention to get the business going again, perhaps by selling it to someone.

The paint from Holkham is actually made in Sweeden by Alback. It really is lovely stuff. It's the only paint I now use on the windows I make.

Old Dutch saying: the most expensive paint is cheap paint.

 

[Anonymous]

I've recently finished decorating the interior woodwork of our cottage with holkham's linseed paints and would definitely recommend it. its great stuff, although a little harder to get used to working with - its very runny! and its necessary to strip all the old paint off first to the bare wood. be sure to get some linseed soap to clean your bushes with too, and its also good for cleaning wooden floors and your hands too! good luck, im sure youll be pleased with the results

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks Stuart - glad to hear from someone who's done it.

 

[Anonymous]

I find the idea of having to strip off all the old paint rather daunting - and rather poor conservation practicem surely. Is that really neccessary?

 

[Anonymous]

No, stripping is not necessary, but you will miss out on some of the paint's particularly desirable properties.

 

[Anonymous]

I presume it is necessary as the wood wouldn't lose moisture if the old gloss stays. Bright white 1980's gloss not something I'm desperate to preserve - unlike the old leaded glass!

 

[Anonymous]

There are two, related, advantages that you gain with linseed oil paint on bare wood. The paint is more vapour permeable than most modern gloss paints so, as Geoffrey indicates, the moisture in the wood can dry out, and secondly, the paint stays firmly attached to the wood. Modern paint often flakes off when the wood stays wet. Using linseed oil over the top of other paint is, perhaps, a bit of a waste of money, it being a lot more expensive that the bog standard stuff.

The colour is a quite separate matter from the binder. Pure TiO2 pigment gives bright white. Lead paint used to start out pretty bright white but gradually became yellower, especially as it absorbed sulphur from the coal-smoke laden airs our forebears enjoyed. The various not quite whites that are now available have small amounts of iron oxide pigment added. Interesting that you have to pay a few pounds extra for the addition of a few pence-worth of yellow ochre but paint makers have to earn a living I guess.