Lime Plaster Repairs

[Roger111]

Hi All

A very first post from me!. Recently purchased a Grade listed property. Lime plaster internally and largely in great condition however i do have the following:

1: A number of holes that go back to the lathe on the walls, circa 3 to 5 inches across (Imagine it being hit with a hammer) - Im told i can do a lime plaster base repair and over skim with Krediezeit/ wall filler for last 2mm.

2: A number of cracks (Small, Screw holes, small gouges etc. Im told Kreigiezeit for this.

Does the above sound correct? Ive done lots of reading and happy to action myself but would love any advice. Apart from this the plaster is in superb condition.

Ill be along again soon with loads of paint questions im sure!!

Many thanks in advance

Roger

 

[TheForge]

You’ll need a reinforced base coat (hair or fibre) with a well graded aggregate to give good tensile strength. Assuming the lath is exposed you’ll need to force some plaster through the laths to create nibs. A lime putty or hot mixed plaster will likely be the closet match in terms of strength to the original plaster.

Leave this slightly recessed and then skim with a coat of any premixed lime finish plaster to match the existing in terms of texture and finish. Or you can mix your own with a bit of lime putty and fine silica sand or stone dust.

Clean the repair first and ensure you wet the area and surrounding plaster to control suction. Most spray the plaster as it carbonates to control shrinkage and aid carbonation.

 

[Flyfisher]

I’m not really good enough to plaster large areas but I’ve repaired plenty of similar sounding patches in various rooms around our house.

For small areas the cost of materials is not really an issue so I prefer to use a ready-mixed haired lime plaster for large patches and a smooth chalk/lime filler for smaller cracks, dents and the like.

I’ve used the following with no problems:

http://www.anglialime.com/products/wet-mix-plasters-angliamix-mortars-renders/fibrechalk

http://www.anglialime.com/products/wet-readymixes-mortars-renders-plasters/superfine-filler

 

[Roger111]

Thanks All

Very much appreciated. Ive researched and watched lots of videos but now its time to have a go. I have another question if i may be as bold.

Everything I read tells me that the walls need to breathe, which ive studied and understand, however Im told bathrooms can be tiled (It is at present with seemingly no damp). How is this ok if the tiles are glazed 1970s ones that i assume is not breathable?

Best

 

[malcolm]

Speaking as someone who started with damp caused by exterior waterproof paint - breathable walls are great. In living areas they can absorb moisture from inside and disperse it outside through evaporation so you should have nice dry well insulating walls with none of the mould that modern houses have. Buth the process is slow. Even drying clothes inside would force too much moisture into the walls and could result in a wet cold wall.

Direct water from bathroom splashes would be pushing it, so far better to stop the water with something impermeable like tiles and use extraction fans to remove the moisture from the air. Any water that leaks through the grout should be extracted by the breathable wall.

 

[Roger111]

ah ha... All clear.!! Thanks so much!!!