As a follow-up, any advice if a section of the gutter has snapped through, in joining together the pieces, short of replacing that section altogether. Thanks
Araldite may fix together a snapped section, but I'd also use something else to support the joint - car body repair? Plumbing epoxy repair?
If in doubt though better to replace.
we have had posts in the past about suggestion re repairing gutters, so it may be worth an archive search.
Ours are held with stainless bolts, as we found that it was the old bolts which had rusted and that's why gutters were coming apart, not in general that the gutters were rusted through, and they are jointed in the traditional way with putty.
I have no idea how long lasting this may be! So far so good...
Clean the broken section of guttering up as thoroughly as possible, fashion a 4" strap of lead as a collar, which can be shaped accurately to most forms and set it all together in a bed of 'Gripfill'.
Work on a plank or some other firm level standing, leave it to go off for a suitable time and as long as you handle things with care this type of patch should serve for many more years - just make sure you wear a pair of those 'dinky durex type gloves' because it’s hard to get off skin.
A similar method of repair could be used for all kinds of renovation jobs on cast guttering and other rainwater goods. There are also many stop-gap uses for this stuff as it sticks like porridge to a blanket (or whatever!).
With the fear of blatant advertising hanging over my head, I think a tube of ‘Gripfill’ should be in everybody’s holster.
I've been trying for 3 years to find someone who can repair my lead gutter, which have expansion/contraction splits.
This gripfill stuff sounds just the job, and I've got a roll of code 4 lead left over from another job.
It sounds much safer to use a cold repair method - noone seems willing to try and weld in a patch so near to the roof timbers and I don't blame 'em. I'm too chicken to do it myself, but I might have a DIY go with your suggestion.
I'm glad you’ve sorted that out amongst yourselves, because embarrassingly! I don't know where you get it! I pinched a box full off my son who swears on the stuff.
He uses it for the most obscure tasks and I have found out just how good it is through default. But, watch it, it is super sticky and very formidable so don't get it onto your hands or evening clothes.
My pleasure Ross, that stuff could even come in handy if something falls off your car, or you need to stick the TV set to the ceiling . . . or something!
(How do you go about getting commision for promoting sales?)
It should be the answer Ian, make sure you scrape the surface of the lead back to bare metal though and do small bits rather than large bits because of expansion and contraction. If they are large splits try to feed a bit of roofing membrane type material in behind it – must go – late for dinner!
While it looks as though it would bond anything and everything, where joints are concerned I'd be wary of anything too permanent which may mean any repair in future would not be possible as you couldn't get sections apart.
I think too expansion of the metal in heat needs to be considered possibly?
Yes the stuff mentioned would certainly bond your gutter sections together, but almost certainly ‘too well’.
Lengths of metal guttering, in no matter how short a run, will expand and contract continuously through their life time, day in day out almost unremittingly. It is something that we must be acutely aware of in the roofing game.
A flexible ‘Black Jack’ type of mastic is the proper material for joints of that kind, it never completely goes off and allows for some movement (again I will have to rely on others to source the latest gunge).
In fact that could well be the reason for much of the failure in guttering; poor jointing compounds that lose their elasticity and solidify - something has to give (i.e., I would never use putty! That’s for windows!)!
It is similar to what I was trying top explain to Ian, this stuff is probably not going to be as flexible as the material it is applied to and that must be taken into account (Evelyn is quite properly aware of that).
And no! Please do not go sticking your mother in law to the sink with it Middi – I am traceable, and there might be a backlash!
Well, our gutters were jointed with putty - and in fact it seemed to have lasted well, so we just carried on as before when renewing and repairing!
The biggest problem seemed to be failure of the bolts holding sections together and some sections of rot. It does seem a good idea to ensure that gutters are cleared regularly AND given a coat of something every now and again.