LBC required for changing rainwater downpipes?

[GhostyDog]

Hi,

As above, does anyone know if listed building consent is required for changing rainwater downpipes, I have a shared pipe with next door and they are wanting to go with normal plastic pipe whereas I'd prefer to go with cast iron style plastic pipe but it add's £300 to the price...

I just want to be 100% clear on whether these should be LBC, other neighbouring properties have nasty builders merchant cheap black plastic soil and rainwater pipes, which I find a bit odd as we are joined onto a Grade II* listed building an out of my back window I can see original cast iron rainwaterpipes and hoppers on one building and the cheap stuff on another building in the same view.

I am planning on doing some internal modification to my house that will require LBC, so when we get the CO round I'm unsure how they would view nasty plastic pipe...

Any first hand experience from forum members much appreciated.

GD

 

[TheForge]

I would say yes, our CO was very specific that LBC should be required if we wished to reposition a downpipe but was less concerned if we replaced a damaged existing one with an appropriate replacement.

If you (or the neighbours) are replacing cast iron with PVC I would say LBC is definitely needed and probably (quite rightly) would not be allowed. Our CO was happy for our failed downpipe to be replaced in either cast iron or aluminium however without LBC.

£300 difference seems a lot for a downpipe though unless its very long or wide. Reclaimed pipes are not very costly if you are prepared to clean them up. 6 inch new pipes are about £125 for 2 meters length.

 

[Gareth Hughes]

Cast iron to plastic certainly requires consent, and wouldn't get it on my patch at least.
Plastic that "looks like" cast iron, doesn't look like cast iron and is a cheap and nasty solution. Various metal alternatives are avaialble at a similar price. I would advise running this past the CO in any case.
If the pipe is already plastic, like-for-like replacement wouldn't need consent.

 

[GhostyDog]

Thank you for the responses.

The rainwater downpipe is 4 stories high which in itself causes problems, I've had various quotes for the work based on pvc cast iron reproduction downpipe and fittings all between £500-£600

But the biggest problem is that it is shared, if it was just mine I'd have no qualms about doing the legwork sourcing reclaimed cast iron downpipes and fittings if required. I don;t think my neighbour is that bothered though considering all the other houses just have plastic pipe, ours is the only Cast Iron Pipe other than those on the II* building.

Not sure what to do for best.

 

[JoceAndChris]

I think you should try to persuade your neighbour that cast iron is best and to set an example to everyone else as they've probably put in plastic without LBC, in the past. Plastic really spoils the effect. Especially if you are prepared to do the hard work sourcing the reclaimed pipe surely your neighbour would go halves? But I'm afraid I don't know the costs, we have the 19th C pipes here so it isn't something I've had to research.

 

[vicky whitworth]

It's the little things, the details that make the difference to how a place looks and in my view guttering is one of those things. Plastic guttering looks like plastic guttering even when it's 'make pretend' cast iron. Aluminium can look OK from a distance - I have some - but it doesn't look on the cast iron stuff adjacent to it. But it is expensive. Is what's there repairable?

 

[GhostyDog]

Thanks for the advice, as an interim we are going to put up plastic until we can source suitable reclaimed pipes, main problem is that the back of the pipe has rotted away and there is water ingress into both houses, this must be the priority at this point to stop any further ingress and water damage so plastic it is as a temporary measure.

 

[JoceAndChris]

Good plan. Dryness before aesthetics.

 

[DJH]

That's a fairly common failing with cast iron downpipes Ghosty. The pipes are wrongly fitted with their backs touching the wall making it difficult to paint the around the back and also acting as a trap for rainwater which will lodge there and corrode the iron. It's best If you remember, to fit bobbins or spacers such as stainless steel washers behind the fixings at the collars so as to keep the pipes a small distance away from the wall. Don't forget to start at the top and work downwards so that any cuts required will be at the foot of the drop. Another tip is to flick a chalk line from top to bottom so that you're not struggling with a hand full of tools and a level when you're up the ladder.

It's easy to make up a template from a piece of ply with the position of the holes in the collar of the pipe drilled through along with a vertical centre line on it. You would also need to mark the length the pipe extends into the collar of the next pipe to allow for expansion. The pipes should not fit tightly into the collar of the adjoining pipe. They might seem loose at first but after a while the joint will fill with atmospheric dust etc and hold them firmly although a small timber wedge tapped lightly in the joint will help steady things.

Starting with the top pipe fitted in place, use the template at the bottom of the pipe, line it up with the chalk line, mark and drill the holes and then lift the pipe into place and fix it. Doing it with the template means that you don't have to lift the lower pipe into place to mark and drill the fixings. If you are using scaffolding get someone on the top lift to pull up each pipe with a length of rope passed through the pipes starting at the top one, with a piece of wood tied on it to stop the rope pulling through. After all the pipes are all fixed just pull the rope back down through the pipes. Doing it like this keeps your hands free to line up the pipes and get the fixings in easily.

I know I'm teaching granny to suck eggs but these are useful tips I used when fitting both lead and iron pipes.

Doug

 

[GhostyDog]

I'll bear that in mind for when we get it done properly, it wont be me doing the work, I'm not very good with heights, but I often find as long as I tell people EXACTLY what I want I'll get that and not be left with someone else's idea of what I wanted.

 

[DJH]

Here's an example of a template for fixing rainwater pipes remembering that you work from top to bottom when fixing them.



The centre line lines up with the chalk line on the wall, the bottom of pipe line lines up with the bottom of the pipe and the fixing holes are marked through the holes in the template.

Doug