Lathes - steel or larch? Limewash or Keim?

[katyfrances]

We have had two quotes for the work to be carried out on our late 17th century cottage, both from builders that regularly work with older properties. We are removing the cement render, mending whatever needs mending underneath (!!!!!) and re- rendering with lime. One of the builders quotes for stainless steel lathes and 2 coats of lime render, the other, sawn larch lathes and 3 coats of render. The listed building officer seems to think either are fine. Does anyone know why they would vary in this way? One also quotes for a 'breathable' masonary paint instead of Limewash which ( I haven't asked the builder yet) the listed bulding officer says might be something called 'Keim', which he says isn't as good as limewash, but easier to use and the only other finish that they approve of.
I will, of course, ask the builders these questions as well but anyone's experience/knowledge would be much appreciated.
Many Thanks
Katy

 

[Gervase]

Go with the larch!
Expanded steel lath is often specified, but unless a lot of hair is used in the render and the consistency and tecnique are exactly right, it doesn't give as strong a render as timber laths. Also, three-coat work is what your builder should be specifying for render over lath. I rather suspect that the steel lath builder would be using a strongly hydraulic lime render or one gauged with cement, whereas the wood lath builder would be using either 'fat lime' or a weakly hydraulic mix - which is preferable.
And go with limewash unless you have a specific hankering for a specific, colour and deeper pockets than most; there's no better finish to apply over lime render. It will need a quick recoat every three years or so, compared with the five years plus that a clay paint will give you. Limewash still works out cheaper, though, and it's simpler to apply.

 

[Lime]

Yes, I agree with Gervase.

The only little gripe I have with the larch is that it is sawn.
Laths should be split, not sawn, to gain maximum strength from the wood and give greatest adhesion to the plaster.
It is still better than stainless and more in keeping with an older property.

 

[biffvernon]

The only gripe I have with lathes is... Oh no, lets not go there agian :wink:

 

[Lime]

The only gripe I have with lathes is... Oh no, lets not go there agian :wink:

Or laths and lathes either!

 

[Schoolmarm]

The only gripe I have with lathes is... Oh no, lets not go there agian :wink:

My husband has a metal lathe in his workshop...........................

 

[Penners]

Is it stainless steel?

 

[Penners]

katyfrances - sorry you've walked in on a long-running, rather pedantic joke that regularly crops up on this forum. It's to do with the spelling of lath/lathe.

A lath is a strip of (usually) wood. A lathe is a machine for turning.

It's cruel of us to take the mick out of a newcomer over this. Just ignore the teasing.

Gervase is an expert. I'd listen to his views.

 

[Schoolmarm]

Is it stainless steel?

No, it is painted light green and made of unknown metal. Or at least unknown to me 8)

 

[chuckey]

Its not. . . . its not. . . . GREEN KRYPTONITE !!!! Aghhhhhh!
Frank

 

[katyfrances]

Oh. I asked for that one didn't I!! I do KNOW what a lathe is - but had no idea what lath was before the last few weeks!! I do know though . . . :lol:

 

[katyfrances]

I meant that I know now! It's late and I'm trying to fill in a listed building permission form so my brain is a little addled

 

[Penners]

No, it is painted light green

Mmmm - nice.

 

[borischarlton]

Katy
I have just used sawn Larch laths to good effect. I did really want to use riven oak but the price difference is a shocker! I managed to get the Larch for 7 pence a foot as apposed to 37 for oak.
Rob

 

[Craig]

We use Keim as we live in lovely central London. Its brilliant stuff and its claimed, very long lasting. Its not cheap though.