Irregular Barn Windows...Help!

[rhood]

We have two small, irregular barn windows, to glaze in a conversion. They could have a standard wood frame made to even up the irregularities, but that would take up a lot of the useable space (and light). Is there a mouldable frame available, or glazing direct to the stone of the barn, or some other solution, which preserves as much light as possible, so that we could seek glazing that fits the contours, rather than meets the standard rectangular frame?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Ross

 

[biffvernon]

Just how irregular is the hole in the wall? I make some pretty non-standard oak window frames.

If it doesn't need to open then one can glaze directly to the stone. Double glazing could be tricky, but you could cut a single sheet of glass to the contours of the hole and glue it in place. It might not look so nice.

 

[Moo]

How do (did) they fix the glass into stone mullions?

 

[Andrew Bodenham]

Ross,

Any chance of a picture?
In my opinion a window needs a frame, unless it's been designed for direct glazing (e.g. into stone mullions). Odd-shaped windows risk looking all wrong, unless it's a tiny arrow-slit or similar.
If it's a fixed pane (non-opening) then you can get away with a very skinny frame to preserve as much glazed area as possible. What sort of masonry is the aperture? Has it ever been glazed before?
You also need to think about building regs compliance, which may well mean fitting double glazing units. Your building inspector /architect will be able to advise.

 

[Gareth Hughes]

How do (did) they fix the glass into stone mullions?

If it's glazed directly into the mullion, the glazing groove on one side is deeper (and wider) than it needs to be so you can slide the glass in, get it into position clear of the opposite mullion, straighten the sheet of glass up and slide it back across.

I haven't explained that very well...

 

[Penners]

I haven't explained that very well...

Well I understood it. And if I can, anyone can.

It sounds a bit like the way that sliding doors are sometimes fitted - push up into a deep groove at the top, and allow to drop into a shallow one at the bottom.

 

[chuckey]

Any competent glazier will be able to supply a trapezoidal piece of glass cut to a cardboard template. They won't be happy to have to re-cut the glass if it proves to be the wrong shape though.
If like round here the external window reveals are rendered. You cut a cardboard template for the biggest trapezoid you can get in. lay this on a piece of chipboard, mark around it, then inside the shape by about 1/2", with a suitable border which will be nibbled down until its a good fit (<3mm around) in the hole. prop up your piece of chipboard in the hole. Slap on render to the window reveal to cover your line. wait 6 hours then carefully scrape of excess render, back to the line on the chipboard and right back to the brick/block edge at the outside. three days later, remove chipboard, stick glass inside, with silicone goo towards the outside*. Finish off with silicone to brickwork on inside and cover with plaster.
* use spacers to get it in the right position if required.
Frank

 

[rhood]

Thanks to all who replied. Frank's response is closest to my heart... These are two irregular openings in the end of a Highland barn. Never glazed, and built never to be glazed! But we want to do so. I had hoped that there might be a thin, malleable frame, in which we could place the irregular glass.

Any more thoughts?

Thanks

Ross

 

[skier-hughes]

It will need to be double glazed.

 

[Moo]

Thanks, Gareth. An explanation good enough to qualify for a Ladybird book (and that's high praise in our house).

 

[Penners]

No pictures though.

 

[chuckey]

Thin malleable frames to hold glass, must de facto be of some right angle section. These do not bend easily without major machinery. If you bend a bit, the sections at right angles to the direction of bend will distort sideways and will no longer be at right angles. Try it with a piece of cardboard.
Just thought of another possible method:- As before make a template of your piece of glass. prop it up in the hole, mark around the reveal the glass position. 1//2" inboard and outboard of this line, mark out hole centres where the "glass" will be within say 1/4" of the reveal stonework. Make up aluminium brackets and screw the the outboard ones into the plugs, put a bit of PVC around the brackets to make a soft edge for the glass to sit against. Fit glass then the inboard brackets. now for the finishing touch, buy some thickish (20mm+) UPVC planking with a decorative nose. Cut up to fit tightly to blockwork, hollow out back to accept brackets, mitre joints, stick together with the Silicone goo. Repeat for inside.
Frank

 

[DaveBrigg]

How about stained glass? This could be made to whatever shape you chose, and would have a sort of frame from the lead. Stone mullions often had a deep slot at the top and shallow one at the bottom. The glass could then be pushed up into the top slot, moved forwards into position and dropped into the slot at the bottom. Whether this would work in your case, I don't know.

 

[biffvernon]

Yes it would work fine. And doesn't have to be stained glass. A lead frame round a piece of glass cut to shape and then fixed with lime mortar is fine. It's having to have double glazing where it gets tricky as a wobbly shaped igu would be a challenge for the factory. If its a north facing window just putting two layers of glass is probably ok as the risk of condensation is greatest when sunshine falls on the window.

 

[MdB]

If its a north facing window just putting two layers of glass is probably ok ...

That wouldn't be enough for building control though would it?

 

[biffvernon]

Ok three layers then. BC don't care about condensation.