How to detail soakers and flashing where a roof extends beyond the abutment wall (at lowest point)?

[Black Timber]

Hi all

I'm going to be stripping slates and putting in new lead soakers with a flashing this week. It's a stone wall, so the flashing will be a straight diagonal line, parallel to the top of the roof.

At the bottom, the roof extends beyond the wall by a few inches. What's the normal way to detail that? I've had a look online but not been able to find anything.... Also, aside form the soakers and flashing, what should be done in the areas outlined in red?

Many thanks

 

[stuart45]

You dress the cover flashing round the corner. Soakers stop at the end of the abutment. When you dress lead over rough stone, I find it easier to render that bit first for a flat surface. The barge board has been cut a bit short. If you can't find any photos I can take one of mine on the extension I did years ago when I get home tonight.

 

[Black Timber]

Many thanks for the reply.

That looks great from what I can see. I think it's a bit dark out now, but if it's no bother to take a photo tomorrow that would be a great help if you don't mind.

Regarding stopping the soaker at the abutment... I had though to continue it beyond, but to snip the upstand down by 50mm where the abutment wall ends, fold the upstand over itself twice leaving me a 25mm high upstand, to direct water into the gutter. Being rolled over and thicker I thought might help it stand without the wall behind it to support it. Any thought on that idea?

Thanks again

 

[stuart45]

Many thanks for the reply.

That looks great from what I can see. I think it's a bit dark out now, but if it's no bother to take a photo tomorrow that would be a great help if you don't mind.

Regarding stopping the soaker at the abutment... I had though to continue it beyond, but to snip the upstand down by 50mm where the abutment wall ends, fold the upstand over itself twice leaving me a 25mm high upstand, to direct water into the gutter. Being rolled over and thicker I thought might help it stand without the wall behind it to support it. Any thought on that idea?

Thanks again

You could try that idea with the soaker. It's not normally done that way. The slates past the end of the abutment would usually extend out more and the gutter would go past the end of the slates by about 4 inches. In the USA they use a similar idea to yours, known as a kickout flashing, which directs the water at the bottom into the gutter.

 

[stuart45]

Not sure if this shows it any clearer. My photography is on a parr with my leadwork. Anything too tricky I get a plumber friend of mine in.

 

[Zebra]

Does this help at all? Some bodgy home-made leadwork. (The funny curly bit was only added recently, as without it, water was dribbling down the wall and staining the render there. It may not work, I'll see when it rains)

 

[Black Timber]

So sorry @stuart45 and @Zebra - I completely missed your posts and only saw them now when I returned to the forum to ask about my flashing. Many thanks for sharing the photos. All very helpful stuff

Cheers