How to deal with potential damp on side wall

[Aurelio]

Hi,

I’m seeking advice on how to deal with the external side wall of our kitchen. I’ve noticed the paint has been bubbling and peeling from the brickwork which I assume is damp. I suspect the previous owner used a non breathable paint. The concrete abuts the wall too. I have been wondering whether a French drain would help or if I should just leave it.

Many thanks

 

[NecessaryWing]

Hi,

I’m seeking advice on how to deal with the external side wall of our kitchen. I’ve noticed the paint has been bubbling and peeling from the brickwork which I assume is damp. I suspect the previous owner used a non breathable paint. The concrete abuts the wall too. I have been wondering whether a French drain would help or if I should just leave it.

Many thanks

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Part of our Georgian cottage is painted on one side in non breathable paint and looks exactly like that. Such paint is a nightmare on older soft bricks and traps moisture. You can see under your paint that they probably did it to cover up bricks that needed restoring. Where it is more sunken for instance - they are likely spalled. Where it is much smoother often means they cemented over the face of the brick.

It’s quite hard to remove such paint without damaging the brickwork but it can be done. Steam DOFF systems with paint strippers is the preferred way in older buildings. It’s costly, not to mention the restoration work likely required which it currently coves up - repointing, brick replacements etc.

If you like the white paint look you could remove the worst bubbled bits with a paint stripper and repaint in a highly breathable paint - Keim paints are incredible. Emperor paint is noteworthy too. A much cheaper option. Let me know if you go down this route and I can dig out the name of a good paint stripper (which doesn’t currently spring to mind) that works for such situations.

 

[jamest]

Just to add to what NecessaryWing said, the hard surface is going to result in rainwater splashing up the wall. A french drain or similar isn't likely needed since it looks as if the ground is well below the floor level (if the first pic is anything to go by), but removing a 50 cm or so wide strip of the hard surface and using gravel or similar instead will substantially reduce the splashing. Even with breathable paint, you could get some damp penetration from splashing (in fact breathable paint might increase the risk) so it's probably worth doing something about it.

 

[NecessaryWing]

Just to add to what NecessaryWing said, the hard surface is going to result in rainwater splashing up the wall. A french drain or similar isn't likely needed since it looks as if the ground is well below the floor level (if the first pic is anything to go by), but removing a 50 cm or so wide strip of the hard surface and using gravel or similar instead will substantially reduce the splashing. Even with breathable paint, you could get some damp penetration from splashing (in fact breathable paint might increase the risk) so it's probably worth doing something about it.

Yes, well said. An important step to take if you remove the bubbled paint and repaint - otherwise it will happen again. Solid concrete butted up against a wall will always causes splash back damage. The reason all the buildings are damaged in Venice - not rising damp as some think - water vehicle splash back.

 

[Aurelio]

Thank you both for getting back to me. I thought it was probably the case, but always good to get a second opinion. I haven't experienced any damp on the interior yet but the brickwork is definitely in poor condition. I have some emperor paint left over and could paint it myself but I am wondering whether to tackle this head on or wait a few years. The concrete runs all along the side path of our property, the surveyor suggested we install a french drain.

 

[a twig]

Somewhere inbetween James’ solution and a French drain would be a “Zebcolm Trench” (search for it on here) - might be a solution and definitely DIYable

 

[jamest]

I'm a big fan of the Zebcolm Trench, I remember following Zebra's description of his her efforts many years ago. In this case, I wonder if it would be needed - the second pic suggests that the interior floor is two courses of brick above the concrete and if you removed the concrete next to the wall, your interior could be nearly three courses above the ground, which should be plenty of evaporative surface. I wonder why the surveyor would suggest a French Drain - they are usually installed to get water away from the walls when it has a tendency just to sit there and soak the foundations. Doesn't look to be any evidence of that in your pictures and the concrete does look to slope away from the house (as it should) in the third picture.

As A Twig says, the Zebcolm trench is DIY-able, but it's potentially quite a lot of hard work. If it were me, I would do take the easy route first (strip the paint and remove the concrete next to the wall out to about 50 cm and putting gravel down). If there are any damp problems after doing this, you can always dig a trench at that stage or install a French drain if that's actually needed (which I doubt).

 

[a twig]

Zebra is a striped animal of the female variety so took the liberty of editing your post

 

[jamest]

Ha! I was wondering whether I'd made a mistake there. Sorry Zebra, thanks Twig