Home Strip

[thiambal]

Just a note on Home Strip the wonderful water based paint stripper.

Advertising should read.....

1. does not create fumes
2. does not irritate skin
3. does not harm environment
4. does not strip paint

Rubbish for any serious paint stripping.

I am trying Kling Strip next!

 

[RobT]

Hi

what are you trying to strip?

Rob

 

[thiambal]

I have tried on a variety of surfaces - old gloss paint, varnish, water borne paint - an old fireplace that has been painted.

No matter how long you leave it or how thickly your apply it is one removes one very thin layer of paint from the top - on old paintwork you would need to spend the rest of your life re-applying.

Next job is to strip some doors. Was going to get them dipped but have been educated to the wiser by posts on this site. So have ordered a test pot of Kling Strip to see how that works.

 

[Moo]

You could also try Peelaway (I'm pretty sure that's what it's called). It did a good job on my plaster cornice and my enormous sash windows a while back.
Not sure how it compares with Klingstrip on performance and/or price, though.

 

[thiambal]

Cheers Moo.

I have had a look

Peel Away - about £55 for 3m2
Kling Strip - about £30 for 3m2

Has anyone used the two and found one better or more pleasant to use?

 

[RobT]

Thiambal,

using Kling strip to remove paint from doors will prove expensive. Plus the poultice also bleeches the wood.

For doors you cannot beat Nitomoors, wire wool plus a cabinet scraper for speed and ensuring you don't ruin the wood's patina.

regards

Rob.

 

[thiambal]

Cheers Rob,

I have got tons of Nitromors left in the house when he bought it (although it does not seem to have been used anywhere - I assume someone had grand plans). But I am not keen on the fumes or the inevitable flakes of lead paint around my expecting wife (expecting a baby that is - as well as expected her doors stripped)

I suspect the doors will be repainted after stripping as there is a lot of damage under the paintwork from removal of old rim locks and adding of mortice locks in the past. They need to be stripped first though as they have been painted using the pour a pot of paint down the door and let it run method.

Difficult decision eh!

1. Dipping - dries out wood and weakens joints (although the two already done have not suffered)

2. Nitromors - nasty, environmentally unsound stuff

3. Kling strip - expensive and bleachs the wood.

What is a chap to do eh!? :? :shock:

 

[Holly Anne]

Hi Thimbal
I sympathise with the problem but if you are going to repaint the doors anyway why not get rid of the runs of paint with a jolly good sanding? plus some filler for the holes?
I echo Rob's thoughts on Nitromors - I have used it for many years and found it very good on items ranging from furniture to doors and windows. I have even stripped a 'mock Jacobean' oak sideboard with spectacular results using nitromors.
Good luck any way and for the new baby. Perhaps wait until the baby is a bit older (i.e. 16) and get it to strip its own doors!

Holly Anne

 

[thiambal]

Cheers Holly Anne,

You are of course right. But alas the doors really cannot wait 16 years - when I said someone had just let a pot of gloss paint run down them - I really wasn't joking - I think that is exactly what they did so - you have never seen anything like it.

A bl**dy good sanding is of course an option - except for disturbing the lead paint underneath

Right - that's it - I am off to by a Wimpey Home right now.

 

[MDE]

I agree with thiambal re Homestrip. It works OK on a single coat of varnish, otherwise multiple applications seem to be required. Klingstrip works a treat and is easy to use, but is very expensive if you've got a lot to do. I've tried a home-made mixture of caustic soda and wallpaper paste (see thread last month on "paint finishes") which seems to work almost as well as klingstrip, but a bit messier and a huge lot cheaper.

 

[Antwerpman]

I have used Klingstrip and it does a great job at getting the paint off, but I did find it difficult to get the wood completely `clean` afterwards. for me it didnt matter as I was leaving the wood bare and liked the look I had, but I would be concerned about any possible reactions that may occur with any paint I was applying over the top.

The best solution I found was a good old fashioned heat gun, well sort of. I bought a bosch `professional` line heat gun with digital control on the back for temperature and fan speed. have been using it to strip doors and sash windows over the last few months with no problems at all (also with very thick paint). With this heat gun I can set the temperature so that I can soften the paint without it or the wood burning and without creating vapours and then gently scrape it off. Works a treat and if you are repainting will be much more cost effective than either dipping or stripping with none of the worries of chemicals and their effects or reactions.

My preferred way of working now is the strip the door with the heat gun and then use the klingstrip to remove any residue that the heat gun missed. This seems to give the best results and also uses the least amount of Klingstrip.

Good luck

 

[Becka]

I'm surprised abot the homestrip thing, I've found it worked wonders on my painted ceiling beams (where you REALLY don't want nitromors dropping on your head) but was no good on metal, i had to resort to nitromors to strip my painted iron window latches.. homestip does seem to go off tho, stuff you've kept for a few months n the cupboard seems to lose some of its potency.. :?

 

[thiambal]

You're a better person than I am Becka if you got it to work effectively.

Unless of course it can go off sitting the shop shelf - in which case it may have been duff when I bought it.

 

[arl]

is there anywhere outside you could do the work to avoid contaminating the house with stripper fumes and lead dust.

ive recently done a fireplace. i tried a waterbased stripper first but as you mention it only takes one layer off and you end up doing lots of scraping and create loads of paint flakes. I found the nitromos much more effective and outside the fumes arnt too bad. it also dosnt create flakes -more of a wetsludge you can carefully put to one side for disposal. its much less messy

 

[Becka]

might be just the luck of the draw on the paint front.. it takes 2 coats normaly, one that gets the bulk of it and one to get the persistant bits and alot of washing off (doesn't look that effective at first but you have to keep scrubbing and rinsing a couple of of fashioned stiff scrubbing brushes and some washing up scourers are a must) but it's always got the job done for me on wooden stuff at least..

 

[thiambal]

Think I will have to go for the Nitromors outside option (although you cannot use it in direct sunlight apparently - and you know what this country is like - either sun or rain - mind you the tin does not mention "do not use in p%%sing rain" so I guess that is a green light.

I have also taken delivery this morning of a small tester tin of Klingstrip which I will try on an old door which I am having to throw away because of some DIY muppetry by a previous custodian of the house. Let us see if it makes me excited enough to bare the cost and bleaching risks.

 

[L1zzy]

Interesting reading this string. I'm just about to resort to Nitromors on the insdes of some of my frames to clean of the remanents left after much heat gun work. Trouble is I'm going to be using Holkham Linseed oil paint afterwards and their bumph says no to using it following chemical stripping. Has anyone else tried to paint with Holkham after Nitromors. If not then I'll try a patch test tonite.

 

[Penners]

Considering that the one thing any company wants to do is sell its products, I would tend to believe Holkham Paints if they advise not using their paints on chemically stripped wood!