Glaziers - a test for your powers of description

[Penners]

One of the jobs I hate most is glazing. And I think the reason I hate it so much is because I'm so cr*p at it. I am to puttying what George Bush is to peacemaking.

Can anyone please explain to me how to run a nice clean, smooth and well mitred fillet of putty around a pane of glass? For a start, would a professional glazier use the standard type of putty knife, like this?

If so, how would he hold it in order to get the putty to behave itself?

I know this is like asking you to describe a spiral staircase without moving your hands, but any help would be much appreciated.

 

[biffvernon]

I think it's more a question of the putty than the tool. I seem to use an old kitchen knife usually but use fingers a lot. The knife is just for finishing off. When you take the putty out of the tub squeeze it about in your hand until all the oil has been reabsorbed and its a pleasant texture that doesn't stick to everything.

 

[middi]

I am not an expert glazier Penners, BUT, untill I saw two experienced glaziers a few years back fitting 400 new panes of glass on a new wooden greenhouse and fully finish the putty bead on the exterior I finally worked out what I was doing wrong.

I was using a putty knife like the one in your picture.

It took just over three hours for the two glaziers to fit those 400 pieces and all they were using was a one inch flat straight scraper guiding it at an angle of about 120 deg to smooth off the excess of the bedding putty in one clean sweep , I noticed that one glazier was using his third finger and the other glazier using his fourth finger as a guide on the wood as if they were scribing a piece of timber with a pencil and regularly wiping the scraper clean on a linseed oily rag.

When I commented why they were not using a " proper" putty knife, one of them said :- " they slow us down and only used by people who fiddle with the putty and never get it straight".

I took their word for it and practised using the same approach to glazing that I learned in those three hours.

I have never had the need for glaziers services since and quite pleased with the scraper including the finish product.

I hope you derive some benefit from this

As to the point to answer you question. I DON'T KNOW.

 

[Lynn]

clean putty knife...that is key and for me difficult to maintain. I've only used a straight knife.

fresh glazing compound too, which I am often too lazy or cheap to go out and buy every time since I have old stuff that should do

probably treating the wood with oil before adding the compound also helps it lay in place instead of curling away from the wood.

 

[mark_j_k]

When I re-glazed our windows, I tried using a putty knife but didn't have much luck. In the end I used a flat bladed scraper (near enough a filling knife) and go much better results.

 

[Lynn]

sorry our flat scrapers are called putty knife...I've never seen anything like that picture frankly. It should have some bend in it though...not totally stiff scraper.

 

[NT]

One of the jobs I hate most is glazing. And I think the reason I hate it so much is because I'm so cr*p at it. I am to puttying what George Bush is to peacemaking.

Well I'll do your glazing if you do my plumbing.

The putty needs to be good first. Some places will sell putty thats half set already, and thats junk. Squeeze the tub at purchase, it should all be soft.

I once got stuck with some crp putty where the glass had to go in there and then, so I picked the lumps off and mixed a tiny bit of water in with it and it worked fine. Couldnt wait to bin the rest!


NT

 

[biffvernon]

[
I once got stuck with some crp putty where the glass had to go in there and then, so I picked the lumps off and mixed a tiny bit of water in with it and it worked fine. Couldnt wait to bin the rest! NT

Not linseed oil putty then?

 

[NT]

[
I once got stuck with some crp putty where the glass had to go in there and then, so I picked the lumps off and mixed a tiny bit of water in with it and it worked fine. Couldnt wait to bin the rest! NT

Not linseed oil putty then?

I dont remember if it was linseed or the non-whiffy stuff, I'll try the trick n a bit of linsseed later if i remember.

NT

 

[Johneds]

A critical factor is the condition of the end of the scraper. A well worn end is much easier than a new one. Also imprtant to keep it clean and oily.

 

[Penners]

I dont remember if it was linseed or the non-whiffy stuff

Non-whiffy?!

I give in - what's that?! I thought all putty was linseed oil based.

 

[Me!]

A well worn end is much easier than a new one.

Are you allowed to say things like that on this new, improved, smut free forum! :shock:

 

[NT]

I dont remember if it was linseed or the non-whiffy stuff

Non-whiffy?!

I give in - what's that?! I thought all putty was linseed oil based.

there is some stuff about that has no smell, but is otherwise much the same. Not sure what its based on, I would have guessed maybe alkyd but thats not entirely whiff free.

I think it probably was linseed though. I wasnt expecting the water to thin the oil (!), but rather to break some of the bonds between the particles of the material, thus enabling it to flow more easily and so be workable. If you imagine a lattice of molecules of sticky stuff, then introduce a smattering of non-miscible water molecules, each water molecule will break a sticky bond, thus giving less intermolecular stickiness and allowing easier squishing about of the material. It makes it handle just as if a little more oil were added, even though microscopically the goings on are somewhat different. It worked better than I expected.


NT

 

[worms]

Next time my daughter is doing Chemistry homework on covalent bonding, I must ask her to explain "intermolecular stickiness"!

 

[Penners]

I wasnt expecting the water to thin the oil (!), but rather to break some of the bonds between the particles of the material, thus enabling it to flow more easily and so be workable. If you imagine a lattice of molecules of sticky stuff, then introduce a smattering of non-miscible water molecules, each water molecule will break a sticky bond, thus giving less intermolecular stickiness and allowing easier squishing about of the material. It makes it handle just as if a little more oil were added, even though microscopically the goings on are somewhat different. It worked better than I expected.

I think you may have invented a whole new science here, NT.

Squishics.

 

[middi]

Never tried that approach on putty NT, but it is a good scientific description why one wets the tip of their finger to smooth of silicone sealant around the rim of of a bath.

 

[NT]

Well, whether its squishics or mythics, it did the job. My explanation is just what I imagine its doing. I cant think how else to explain it.


NT

 

[thiambal]

Can science explain why - having wet your finger, smoothed the sealant and got is 99% perfect - there is then an overwhelming desire to touch it again just to fix that 1% problem - thereby screwing it all up beyond all belief.

No matter how much you tell yourself not to touch it again - to live with the minute imprefection - you find your finger reaching for it again - V annoying :evil:

 

[Penners]

Can science explain why - having wet your finger, smoothed the sealant and got is 99% perfect - there is then an overwhelming desire to touch it again just to fix that 1% problem - thereby screwing it all up beyond all belief.

No matter how much you tell yourself not to touch it again - to live with the minute imprefection - you find your finger reaching for it again - V annoying :evil:

Thiambal - I have this uneasy feeling that you've been peering over my shoulder whenever I've done any sealant work! :shock:

Your observation is absolutely correct, but I can't explain it. It's a bit like scratching an itch - you know the scratching will make it worse, but can you stop yourself?

 

[geoff]

I have tried your type of knife and the straight edge type. I actually found the shaped one easier to use - but then I'm not doing it as a job, perhaps a pro would get used to the straight one for continual use and prefer it. What I did find is that the quality of the blade matters - it needs to have a bit of flexibility. I tried (a cheap) one which was just a slab of stiff chromed metal and it was awful to use, but a better, unplated, flexible one worked nicely and I still have it and I use it for filling as well. Now it's slightly worn it seems even better. Go for quality, not price.