Front Door - Edwardian property

[VanessaL]

I need to replace the front double doors and frame of my Edwardian house and have been unable to find anyone suitable for the job / somone who i am convinced knows what they are doing!

Can anyone recommend a good joiner(s) for a period property, i am looking to replace the double doors, like for like, but with enhanced security features and also frosted toughened glass panels. They are the original doors that were blown off by a bomb in WW2 and were put back on!

thanks!

 

[Penners]

If the doors survived a WWII bomb, why on earth are you replacing them?!

In all seriousness, can you not find a good joiner who could repair them, rather than replacing them? You may well find that this is the cheaper option, and it will conserve original fabric.

It might help people to suggest a local joiner if you tell us where you're located.

 

[Juju]

I agree with Penners. We thought we needed a new front door but changed our minds when we were quoted £3k for a new door and frame. Instead, the carpenter chopped off and replaced the rotten bits and did new locks, build a new threshold, etc all for £150 quid. Another £50 paid for the new door furniture and paint. Bargain compared with £3k. And it looks good and we still have the perfectly good Victorian door and frame.

 

[Andrew Bodenham]

As asked previously, whereabouts are you?

If your original doors are in any way interesting (unusual moudings etc.) then I would recommend renovation rather than replacement. Unless they are in truly terrible condition it is nearly always possible to cut out areas of rot / damage and let in new timber. If this is artfully done then your refurbished doors should be good for another few decades is well maintained.

However, in the case of relatively simple designs, or when the originals really are in poor shape it can be more economical to start from scratch. You would need to find an interested woodworker who would be prepared to replicate original features, source good quality timber, and construct the doors, frame etc. to a high standard. Personal recommendations are the way to go, and you should ask to see examples of previous work - visit and talk to satisfied clients if you can.

You're lucky to have the originals to work from. I did the door below for a customer whose original one had been replaced by some grim 60's things glazed with 'toilet' glass. So we had to guess what it might have looked like. But at least this gave my client an opportunity to commission some nice stained glass.

More pics on my website.

 

[chuckey]

Andrew is the door's carcase douglas fir? I am after some two strips say 1/2" x 3" X 1.5m long, to box in a hot water pipe running alongside an exposed ceiling joist, but can't find a place that sells it. Any suggestions?
Frank

 

[Andrew Bodenham]

Chuckey,
Yes, it's some very nice Douglas Fir. Since installation it's darkened down a bit, and could almost be taken for pitchpine. I obtained my stock via a merchant in Kendal as 2"x6".
For your application is species critical? For pipe boxing etc. I prefer ply or MDF (painted of course) as these stand the thermal changes better than natural timber. If a clear finish is to be used, or if you're matching existing work then of course species is vital, but even within species you can get huge variation in colour and texture, and then there's the question of grain orientation.
Probably got a few bits of DF in the woodpile if you're interested.

 

[VanessaL]

Thanks for all your tips. We have looked into having the doors renovated but the problem is, we had been burgled and this resulted in damage to the frame aswell as the doors to the extent that new doors and frame are required.