fixing reed matting to rafters - how?

[rog and gina]

The ceiling is pitched into the eaves. We have the reed matting, but we are wondering what to fix it to the rafters with, should we use long stainless staples, nails or something else?

Any advice on how best to plaster it? We've put it off for a couple of weekends, tomorrow might be the day!

Thanks

 

[Gervase]

I started using staples, hammered in every third or fourth reed, but that took forever (though it did give a nice, secure fixing).
Now I use a piece of batten nailed over the reed mat, sandwiching it against the ceiling timber.
Be sure to make sure the mat is well and truly stretched tight - this will give a firm surface to plaster and, more importantly, allow sufficient space between the reeds for the plaster to be forced through easily to form strong nibs.
To do that you staple the edge of the matting to the ceiling timbers at one end of the room and then pull tightly, whacking in staples every yard or so, before cutting the end just over the length required. Then start nailing the batten, putting in the nails every eight inches or so (a nail gun helps!) and keeping the mat as tight as possible.
When you've reached the other side, you can make the final trim for size.

 

[Mark]

Gervase,

does that mean you put a very thick plaster coat on or that you use very slim battens?

Mark

 

[Gervase]

A bit of both - the battens are a little under half an inch (more lath than batten, really) and they compress the reeds as well when they're nailed home (or screwed if you're patching old ceilings which still have some lath and plaster intact on any part of that timber), while the plaster goes on to about five eighths of an inch.

 

[rog and gina]

Thanks for your advice,
so far we've got the reed in place, lots of random staples at the mo,(enough to hold it) during the week we'll add lots more.
What a horrible job tho so far! Feel like my arms are in a locked position... upright!!!

We have lots of plastic sheeting for when it's time to get the lime up there, I have a funny feeling we'll have more on the floor than the ceiling!


thanks again
Gina

 

[Gervase]

I have a funny feeling we'll have more on the floor than the ceiling!

How very true! The first time I tried plastering with reed lath I found it incredibly frustrating, and plenty ended up on the floor.

Key points are:
* have the mix stiffer and less wet than you would for plastering with ordinary laths.
* don't wet the reed mat first.
* before you start, give the matting a brisk going over with a stiff-bristled brush - a churn brush or similar - to loosen and remove the 'flag'; the leaves that encircle the reed stems. These are a pest and will dump your plaster if left on the stems.
* when you do plaster, press it home very hard. With most reed mat, the gaps between the reeds are less than between wooden laths, and with a stiff plaster mix, it takes some oomph to get it to go through and form good nibs. You wrists will ache until you get used to it.
* if you can, take a look at what you've done from above - lift a floorboard or hop up into the attic. It will tell you if you're pressing hard enough and if the plaster is popping through and 'snotting' into nibs/
* hair - two inches is the maximum length, and one n'arf is better. Use lots; if you buy in those string-bound rolls already cut to length, use two rolls for each full wheelbarrow load of plaster (some conservation plasterers will use three, but it makes for a very hairy mix better suited to the sloppier plasters used on wooden laths). That's what gives your ceilng its tensile strength.

And some will still fall on the floor. It will drive you mad, and then it will happen - you will find that it stays up! Remember to plaster from clean lath to existing plaster, always pulling the new stuff towards what you've already put up there. That way your stroke ends on existing plaster, which will hold what you've just put up there (if that makes any sense!)

 

[rog and gina]

thanks, I'll pass the info on
I can cope with plastering the walls, but ceilings are a whole other story!

I think I might be tea lady that day!!!!
Thanks again,
Gina

 

[Stephen]

I saw a certain female TV star recently and she is using it. The fixing is long screws and large washers. Screws are more sensible than nails because they provide a more positive fixing and do not involve any shock vibration to the structure behind. I had not seen it in use before and had only heard about it. Now I have seen how it can be used I shall be specifying it. My only slight concern is its thickness and that it can be difficult to get round details and could result in the finished surface being further forward than previously. In some cases this may therefore involve change of detailing around doors and window frames. The advantage may be better insulation - yet to be assessed.