Fix or Replace

[wobs]

Bottom sash is poorly:

Is this repairable, or is it a new bottom sash?

 

[plasticpigeon]

I hate repairing things like that, it is quite rotten looking. If the joint is still sound when the rot has been removed i would repair it with wood and PU glue. Usually a lot needs to be cut out to get back to good wood. I had a casaement like that and by the time all the rot was cut out I had lost the joint. However I didn't scrap it but kept the top rail, and the upright on the non rotten side and replaced the other 2 sides. If you have a router and table it should be easy enough to replicate any beading.

 

[88v8]

Looks as if the top sash is painted shut. I guess they haven't had much love for a while.
Take out the glass (small blowlamp very carefully on the putty) and scarf in new pieces/make new joint. Can reproduce mouldings with hand planes/chisel.

Definite touch of the cold, wet, autumns now. Feels a bit late for outdoor paintwork. My favourite, Sikkens AZ, dries well in summer but verrrrry slowly when it's cool or damp. That lovely autumn 'sweet spot' of dry wood and less direct sun, didn't seem to happen this year.

Ivor

 

[MatthewC]

I have successfully used some stuff called "Repair Care Dry Flex" which is designed to give a structurally sound repair for wooden windows (including joints), regardless of how much bad wood you have to remove. See http://www.repair-care.co.uk/productsfiles/doc/Brochure%20Flex%204%20%282-in-1%29.pdf. It is quite expensive but in my view it does the job very well.

 

[wobs]

I have successfully used some stuff called "Repair Care Dry Flex" which is designed to give a structurally sound repair for wooden windows (including joints), regardless of how much bad wood you have to remove. See http://www.repair-care.co.uk/productsfiles/doc/Brochure%20Flex%204%20%282-in-1%29.pdf. It is quite expensive but in my view it does the job very well.

Cheers for that. I was wondering about that stuff, as I have used it on a job last year when I spliced in a piece in a cill. I wasn't sure if it would be up to the join in a bottom sash, as it would be put under stresses as it it moved in use.

The other drawback though is that linseed paint doesn't like it, so I only use it sparingly. If anyone knows a way of getting said paint to work well on this filler, I'll be grateful.

Ivor:
Top sash isn't painted shut (although they are all poorly balanced).
My plan is to just repair all the rot in the windows this year (basically strip the bottom section of each window and repair), and apply a couple of coats of linseed oil to get it through the winter. Then next year strip the rest of the window and paint.

I would have had this done sooner, but:
a. I've also been painting the front door frame
b. Been fitting in childcare
c. Spent most of the summer trying to get a joiner to do many of the repairs owing to me doing b. We now have one, and he's meant to be coming soon to start work on many of the sashes.

PS. My track record of getting glass out is not good, so I avoid this wherever I can.