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Anonymous
Guest
I need to make old pine doors 30 min fire proof i do believe its the panels thats the problem .Can anbody tell me what to put in the panels then sandwich them in to keep old pine look
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Anonymous
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Same here Richard. The advice I have so far is to use any of the fireproof panels available and then over panel in pine. You lose some of the depth of the panel though (good if you are going for that Soanian flush panel look).
I am just looking at what is a suitable fireproof panel at the moment. The company you suggested yesterday seemed happy/competent to do the work but need to know what panel to use.
If anybody has any better ideas I would very much welcome them.
Pine doors were often painted though, so that's another option?
Alternatively you can do what the prior occupant of our house did and just nail asbestos panels over the top of the whole door!
I am just looking at what is a suitable fireproof panel at the moment. The company you suggested yesterday seemed happy/competent to do the work but need to know what panel to use.
If anybody has any better ideas I would very much welcome them.
Pine doors were often painted though, so that's another option?
Alternatively you can do what the prior occupant of our house did and just nail asbestos panels over the top of the whole door!
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Anonymous
Guest
I believe the doors have to be 40mm thick to have the required 30 min rating. If they are that thick then the panels need only be attended to with a 6mm panel of fireproof material applied to the room side of the door (which is a problem if you want the door stripped). The majority of 4-panel doors are not 40mm thick. I wish I knew an easier solution to this problem other than waiting for the building inspector to go and then replacing the horrible looking fire doors back to period ones.
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Anonymous
Guest
Don't you also need Intumescent strips around the door frame?
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Anonymous
Guest
This doesn't answer Richard's question either, but I wonder how fire resistant a plank and ledged door in solid 25mm thick oak would be? Oak is famous for its fire resistance as it chars on the surface, slowing down further combustion. Oak beams perform better in fires than steel.
Paint doesn't seem to clever as it's usually more flammable than wood, isn't it?
Paint doesn't seem to clever as it's usually more flammable than wood, isn't it?
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Anonymous
Guest
Never had any experience with this product but it 'claims' to do the job. It's the bottom left icon of the four pictures.
It might be worth further investigation.
http:////www.coatmaster.co.uk/timber.htm
It might be worth further investigation.
http:////www.coatmaster.co.uk/timber.htm
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Anonymous
Guest
No, I dont think you have to fit intumescent strip - you can add an additional overlapping architrave/jamb thingy, of 25mm thick which the door butts up against. The strip falls off a lot.
Often means you skin your knuckles when you turn the handle but you can fit longer mechanism so the handle is set further away from the door edge.
Overpanelling works but looks pants as you now no longer have the same depth of fielding.
Not tried intumescent paint but I doubt you would get a visually acceptable finish - have you seen what it looks like on steel work!
Often means you skin your knuckles when you turn the handle but you can fit longer mechanism so the handle is set further away from the door edge.
Overpanelling works but looks pants as you now no longer have the same depth of fielding.
Not tried intumescent paint but I doubt you would get a visually acceptable finish - have you seen what it looks like on steel work!
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Anonymous
Guest
I seem to recall SPAB had to fireproof doors in the HQ in London - I THINK it was with paint. Give them a ring and ask...
http://www.spab.org.uk
http://www.spab.org.uk