Finishing Mahogany Handrail

[Manny]

This weekend I've decided to sand my banister that could use a little love. It spans three floors… I'm unsure what to protect it with once I've cleaned it up though. Can anyone suggest something that's not too thin and runny that will polish up nicely for mahogany?

Many thanks.

 

[Nemesis]

Oh do take care - sanding isn't a good idea!

If required, a very light rub with the finest grade wire wool, but only if really grim, otherwise a wash with water and soap (do not soak) or vinegar and then some quality beeswax polish is what I would do.

Treat it very, very gently and you will retain the patina of age.

 

[Penners]

And bear in mind that mahogany was frequently stained a deep russet colour - its natural colour is pink. So if you start sanding you could remove patches of the stain.

I would follow Nemesis' suggestion of a gentle wash (dry it off immediately, bit by bit) followed by a waxing.

 

[Carrie]

Whilst on this topic, (sorry to hijack) my mahogany handrail is painted. I won't get round to doing anything about this for a while but would eventually like to strip it. Any advice please?

 

[jocelyn plummer]

Please don't sand mahogany... it hurts to think about it. Gentle clean as suggested and Harrells wax polish, once a year will be enough.

 

[piper]

We stripped and LIGHTLY sanded/steel-wooled our handrail about five years ago - its probably not mahogany, in fact it looks very much like a fruitwood (cherry? though I feel that's unlikely) - However, the vertical "railings" or whatever they are called are definitely mahogany. We meant to oil or wax it but never got round to it. Meanwhile, all that time with hands running up and down have polished and oiled it beautifully.

 

[piper]

We stripped and LIGHTLY sanded/steel-wooled our handrail about five years ago - its probably not mahogany, in fact it looks very much like a fruitwood (cherry? though I feel that's unlikely) - However, the vertical "railings" or whatever they are called are definitely mahogany. We meant to oil or wax it but never got round to it. Meanwhile, all that time with hands running up and down have polished and oiled it beautifully. Sorry about the duplicate post - tried to edit because I put 18 months ago and my wife said it was at least five years! Doesn't time go fast when you're getting old!
Somehow the post has appeared twice and I can't discover how to remove the redundant one.

 

[Manny]

Aye, by *sanding* I meant a light rub over to clean it up a bit. Not use an orbital sander on it!

Thanks for the advice, I will procure some quality beeswax polish.

 

[Carrie]

Piper - what did you use to strip the paint off?

 

[Penners]

Carrie - I would use Klingstrip, which is a paste-type of paint stripper.

There are several different formulations for stripping different things. Have a look at the company's website here.

 

[Carrie]

Thanks Penners. I have used Klingstrip on cast iron fireplaces with great success but then tried it on a wooden windowsill with disastrous results so am a bit nervous on trying it on wood again. Do you think burning the paint off a mahogany handrail is a bad idea?

 

[Ian Bond]

Carrie

Just out of interest, what went wrong with the cill?

I used Klingstrip on painted plaster, and on timber architraves with good results.

I washed the woodwork down well before repainting and it has worked out OK.

It would be very useful to know more about the problem you found, so I can avoid it myself!!!

Thanks,

Ian

 

[skier-hughes]

I've done about 30 oak beams so far with no problem.

Graham

 

[piper]

Piper - what did you use to strip the paint off?

Carrie, I think we tried a bottled paintstripper (Not Nitromors) on a bit, then gave up because it took so long. My wife (who did all the work ) has just remembered that she used a hot air gun, and an ENORMOUS amount of "elbow grease" with hand sanding and wire wool. As I said, Jocelyn, I'm not sure whether the rail is mahogany anyway, and it was painted off-white, along with the entire staircase, not varnished.

 

[Penners]

Klingstrip...on a wooden windowsill with disastrous results

Was the sill softwood? I've had variable results with Klingstrip on softwood - in some cases it turned a murky colour and went furry.

Burning the paint off (I presume you mean with a blowlamp?) is always a bit risky, because of the likelihood of scorching. If you want to use heat, a hot air gun would be better.

Maybe the thing to do is to try a hot air gun on a small patch (in an unobtrusive place), and expose enough wood to see what it is. If it turns out to be a hardwood, then Klingstrip would be my choice. But if it's softwood, then perhaps continue with the hot air gun.

By the way, if you decide to try this, beware of exposing a small patch of wood on the underside of the handrail. Sometimes there's a trench in the underneath face, into which the balusters fit, and between balusters the trench is filled with fillets that may be a different wood.

 

[jocelyn plummer]

What date is your house? Do you think that the bannisters are original?

If you have a town house it is very likely to be mahogany,whatever the wood is klingstrip is the best option really.

 

[Penners]

whatever the wood is klingstrip is the best option really.

With the possible exception of the caveat about softwood, above.

 

[Carrie]

Hi Penners
I was stripping a window frame which is oak. Stripped with a hot air gun and it was fine. The sill is pine and I used Klingstrip on it and it turned very soft and "shreddy". It's really put me off using Klingstrip on wood - even hardwood. If I damaged my hall handrail I'd be really upset. Mind you I'm not going to be doing it for a year - too much else to do. Perhaps my nerves will have recovered by then.
Thanks
Carrie

 

[Penners]

Carrie - your experience with Klingstrip on softwood sounds similar to my own. But I've never had any problems with it on hardwoods.