Draught proofing sash windows DIY?

[jungle_jim01]

I'm in the process of sorting out my sash windows. I've repaired the woodwork, primed and painted the frames and about to start fitting the windows back in But...i'm trying to find a cheap but effective way of draught proofing,(that doesn't look unsightly) particularly along the meeting rail (this may be a tall order!) With a few other windows i've used a strip of wood on each rail with a foam strip between to make a seal, but inevitably there's always a small gap between the wood and the parting bead which lets draught in. Anyone got any bright ideas?
Thanks

 

[plasticpigeon]

I'm doing the same as you at the mo. I am just putting in parting and staff beads with brushes in. I was going to ignore the meeting rail and the top of the upper sash. My meeting rails have rebates that interlock so I wasn't that bothered. They probably won't fit very well now as nothing is quite the same shape as when it was made. I'd be interested to know how people have tackled this too.

 

[Feltwell]

A topic third only to damp and Penners affinity for Kit-Kats on this forum I think. Lots of old posts if you do a search - for instance:-.

http://www.periodproperty.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=12473&hilit=reddiseals

I'm draft-proofing and secondary glazing the whole house, very slowly as I do each room and renovate the windows!

 

[jungle_jim01]

I'm going to try some self-adhesive brush pile strip. I'm trying to work out where the best place to fit it is. I guess the optimum would be on the beading but there's hardly any gap whatsoever. However there is a few mm of gap either side in the window runner...i haven't seen any examples of draught proofing in here. I think it would help reduce draught working it's way around the edges, any thoughts on if it would make a difference?
Thanks

 

[Feltwell]

My thought is that self-adhesive strip won't stay put very long. Sorry! I find most self-adhesive things don't last, especially where movement is concened and where they are exposed to daylight and/or weather.

Seriously, fitting new staff and parting beads - with already built-in brush pile carriers - is very easy and I think will be more effective. You could, as per PP, ignore the meeting rail and the top of the top sash - but if you've got a router it is very easy to do these as well.

The biggest problem I've had is where the edges of the sliding sash have been badly worn by sliding against the old staff beads over many years. You can get thicker staff beads, but being the fussy old so and so that I am I instead machined the edge off the sash, fixing a new piece in place not just with glue but also pinning it to the rest of the sash with some beech dowels. Some of my windows weren't that well built to begin with, to ensure they wouldn't rattle and no draughts the new piece had to make the edge of the sash thicker than the original section.

 

[agbagb]

Lots I could add to this but first I think consideration should be given to Drafts = Ventilation. Of course you dont want a howling gale blowing around the sashes but the ventilation given by a limited cross section of gaps can be advantageous. With this in mind the small gap around the parting bead and meeting rails just adds to the ventilation a habitable room should have.

If you really do need to reduce this gap then felt pads glued on to the meeting rails where they are relieved for the parting bead might do the job. Be carefull it does hold the meeting rails apart giving you a bigger gap.

Also think about where condensation from the inside of the glass can drain away. Many of the draft proofing solutions can end up collecting water that doesn't get much change of evaporating away so can promote rot where you didn't have it before.