Draught proofing for windows

[paulb33]

Hi All,

My joiner has made a small side opening timber framed window to show the planners. I notice that it uses a plastic/rubber draught proof strip on the inside of the frame. The casement closes against it.

Question: will linseed oil paint be compatible with this plastic strip? Or, should I be looking at something else?

Cheers,

Paul

 

[TheForge]

Linseed oil paint should be fine, you can paint rubber with Linseed paint. The only possible issue could be if its glued and by some small chance the linseed oil weakens the glue.

 

[88v8]

Just a thought...
Drying time... if the draught proofing is slotted into the frame during construction this presents a potential problem, because depending on its design it can exert a relatively high local pressure and potentially stick to the paint long after it would otherwise be considered 'dry'.
Never used linseed paint, but I believe extended drying times can be an issue?
In which case the draught-proofing would best be retrospectively inserted.

We had some windows tailor-made in 1990, they came with some sort of rubber/fabric draught strip rebated in, even though I hadn't asked for it. Luckily, they didn't press too hard against the frame so the solvent paint I used was able to dry OK.

And of course this could also be an issue during future linseed repaints.

Other than these particular windows, I always used that brass strip for draught proofing, dang what's it called... Atomic Strip... anyway now I use expanding tape as I mentioned before, but I'd strip and replace it as part of repainting.

Ivor

 

[paulb33]

We had some windows tailor-made in 1990, they came with some sort of rubber/fabric draught strip rebated in, even though I hadn't asked for it.

Similarly, they rebated the rubber strip during construction. It was just hammered into a very thin notch, so I was able to pull it out to paint the frame. My concern is that painting will narrow this notch, making it difficult to hammer back in.

I want to be armed with knowledge when i go back to the joiner. So, knowing what alternatives are available is helpful. I wonder if there's draught proofing that doesn't need to be physically rebated into the frame?

Regards,

Paul

 

[Lime]

IMO there will be far less of a problem of sticking etc. with linseed oil paint than with ordinary modern paint.
Also several layers of modern paint will be far thicker than the same number of layers of linseed oil paint.
A layer of linseed oil paint is very thin indeed if applied correctly.
Although the drying time of linseed oil paint is extended in cool conditions, modern paint is far more sticky and much more likely to block channels and holes compared to linseed based paints.
I would be far more concerned about blocking and sticking with Dulux or F&B paint for instance.
I have used linseed oil paint externally for several years and would not go back to modern paints which I think are a very poor substitute.

 

[Zebra]

I have exactly what you describe, and it hasn't been a problem. The windows are less than a year old though.
On one window the draft-proof strip has torn already, not due to the paint.
I didn't know they would come out, so left them in. On opening windows I have tried to paint round them, but on non-openers I've just painted right over them and they're still pliable.
I would agree with the point about drying times, best to do it in the warmer months if you can, and leave them open for at least 24 hours after each coat.

 

[Feltwell]

Similarly, they rebated the rubber strip during construction. It was just hammered into a very thin notch, so I was able to pull it out to paint the frame. My concern is that painting will narrow this notch, making it difficult to hammer back in.

That's how a lot of these strips are fixed, they are usually quite easy to pull out and put back in again. I wouldn't worry about painting over the slot - if it's that narrow and you're careful with your painting (bearing in mind that with linseed paint, if you think you're putting it on far too thinly, then you're doing it just right!) then you won't get paint in the slot. Worst case is you have to clear a bit out carefully with a knife.

You can get new strips easily enough, Reddiseals or Mightons do them. I've a big roll of the Reddiseals bubble type that I fit whenever I refurbish a sash window, they are very flexible and push easily into the slot.

http://www.reddiseals.com/product/timber-bubble-seals/

There are also foam-filled versions as well. Many are designed to fit into a special carrier that needs machining in during the window manufacture, but Reddiseals do one to fit a slot.

http://www.reddiseals.com/product/sofseal-p-seal/

I'm sure they'd send you a sample piece if you asked them, so you can check if they fit the slot you've got. If not then pm me and I'll send you a bit of the bubble type, I don't have the foam. A lot of the seal manufacturers say you can paint over them but if you can take them out before painting it has to be neater. I always have and haven't had a problem getting them back in again.